Thread: Hammer Comfort K3 vs SawStop Cabinet

Hi James, no real opinion on the difference, except that the Hammer would be better quality I should think. However, I'm not sure if you know but Hammer Oz does have specials, I think twice per year. I'm not so sure if they would tell you when they are on, but others in the forum might know. IIRC one is during the Sydney show, and the other is towards the end of the year.

Cheers, Brett

Hi Brett,
I've got some other Hammer gear so have a good relationship with the guys out there - I imagine they will be able to provide some indication about when to order. I'm just considering my options and if SawStop is a path I should consider going with. (not that the jointer or bandsaw has these features ; sure got to keep my wits about me when using those things!)

Hi Tinkerer
I have the K3 and find the slider invaluable. The slider can bu used for cross cutting as well as truing an edge for jointing, making tenons, particularly on long and large stretchers, cutting sheet goods and I am sure other uses. The Sawstop does not have this capability. That said, I do agree that it would be really great to have a safer saw. Tough decision.
Stan.

I am buying the K3 comfort very soon. After looking at Sawstop last year, with full options it was STILL only a contractor saw and was over 6k. If you look at the cabinet sawstop with decent options you're up for more than a K3 comfort. If your buying it just for the sawstop device and depending solely on it to save you from harm, then what do you do with other devices such as Bandsaw, router table and jointer planers? Safe work practices shouldn't be replaced with technology alone.
Cheers

I have the K3 (with the spindle option) which is a vast improvement over the old Durden I had, operations with the sliding table make life so much easier not to mention the blade tilt/raise and fall, 1200 wide rip capacity, crosscut angle set points etc.... can't really compare with a sawstop as I haven't used one, I think I would lean towards not buying a sawstop for the safety feature alone that I may never utilize.....but hell of a good feature to have if it was needed in that instant, might depend on how accident prone you are and how likely u think u might be to chop a finger off and the consequences of doing so, for e.g. if u are a concert pianist and don't ever want to lose a finger go for the sawstop.


Pete

Doesn't the sliding table make the safety features of the Sawstop irrelevant? Just clamp your board (rip or crosscut) to the sliding table and your hands never need go anywhere near the blade. That's the reason why they're so much safer than non sliding tables. Like Jenno said, if you change the way you work and think it through it's far safer than a sawstop.

As mentioned above, the safety feature of the SS only masks the shortcomings in the cabinet style saw and the dangers that are inherent in these saws. I have thought for a long time that kick back presents the biggest safety problem with the table saw generally used by woodworkers and the SS does nothing to reduce that problem at all.

Thanks for the replies everyone. All, good points.

I'll keep saving those the K3

I'd have to agree with other comments already made. Sawstop (Asian Made) vs Hammer (European Made) - Hammar is a well designed and high quality built machine. Our workplace recently bought a Hammer Bandsaw and have been very happy with it's performance and the service offered by the Brisbane supplier.

Just to throw a spanner in the works - have you considered a Mini Max machine (Made in Italy by SCM). I own one of their combination machines and it's an absolute dream to use. They are supplied by Gabbetts Machinery in the capital cities. I think you would be very happy with either of the European brands mentioned - they both make top-end gear that is miles away in terms of build quality, and design from the Chinese/Tiawanese gear on the market (but of course, you're paying for it!).

Happy Shopping

Not sure if this is fair dinkum but heard that European regulations do not allow for the provision of a Dado blade. Apparently they have to make the arbor short so as to prevent the use of a stacked dado blade??. Anyone else heard of this?

You can upgrade to a dado arbor upon purchase or upgrade later. Easier upon purchase tho.

JT
my opinions/observations based on the three years I spent at TAFE using a euro sliding table saw (two different Altendorfs) and a rip saw.

a sliding table saw is a completely different beast to a cabinet saw.
it's great for breaking down sheet goods, but the table needs to be long enough to pass a 2.4m sheet past the blade.
given the size of typical furniture components, it's hard to justify a table much bigger than 1.2m
with the table locked, and a ripping blade fitted, the saw functions like a "normal" cabinet saw.
safety comes from a riving knife that is always fitted and an overhead guard that is mounted independently of the blade. the riving knife and proper use of the fence essentially eliminates the risk of kickback
then a work practice that keeps the guard no more than 10mm above the piece being cut
the sliding table and blade tilt makes cross cutting a doodle -- IMO you won't need a mitre saw

If you can afford the K3 you won't be disappointed -- however you will need to adjust your work practices compared to using a contractors/cabinet saw

dado blades?
I understand the Hammers are available with a 19mm long arbour for fitting a dado blade however, dado blades are really a compromise solution driven by he limitations of a typical contractors/cabinet saw. European (and British?) practice is to use a rebating head on a spindle moulder (an option for the K3) to do the sort of cuts, the yanks use a dado and tenoning jig for.