Thread: Hammer k3 Winner Comfort

you could do what I do. put the slider hard against a wall.

my slider is 7.6m tip to tip.

IMG_3136.jpgIMG_3137.jpg

Albert makes a good point and more than one person has done that.

My impression has always been that due to being able to put it against the wall, a saw spindle and separate J/P like Albert has would be easier in almost any size workshop. Not sure how a full combo would help due to needing access to all sides.

About the width of the machine, for a standard slider, the absolute minimum you will be looking at 1.5m to the right of the blade and 2.5m to the left of the blade if standing at cutting position. That is 4m.

I have allowed 1.5m to the right of the blade and 4.5m to the left of the blade, at 4.5m is my sander. I need room to walk, move stock, and Festool Vacuum, sometimes I still have to use a skill saw to rough cut stock on the floor/sawhorse before I use my slider, because I dont have enough space to the right of the blade, the machine is hard against a wall.

IMG_3138.jpg

Thank you for those numbers Albert. That's a great workspace you have. I'm jealous. I might be up for a new shed or have to settle for a cab saw. Regards Shane.

Don't be too sure about space requirements. My requirements do not exceed the outer dimensions of the machine from side to side and the infeed & outfeed are exactly the same as a cabinet saw. Both Derek and I bought our machines without the outrigger and though Derek has no need for an outrigger I added one later at the same cost as if I had ordered it on the machine from new. Don't forget the outrigger can be removed in a few minutes and installed with no additional set up problems if you want the extra space. Albert is using a full sized panel saw, the K3 is a short stroke slider that can be used as a small panel saw and brings all the safety benefits of a full sized panel saw. Derek has never used his to cut big panels but I bet he would never go back to a cabinet saw because the benefits of the small slider are just so great. There are some users in the US who have elected to make the rip fence bar shorter to reduce the footprint and they have had no user issues AFAIK. Actually ordering the machine and adding the outrigger later has some advantages as you finish up with two different length cross cut fences and extra flip stops as well.

That's great to hear Chris. Never used a slider but would love to have a crack. Some guys seem to have difficulty with calibration of the tables relative to each other, and blade and fence alignment. Given that you guys are obviously vastly experienced, is it likely that a newbie can sort it out? Did it take you long to dial it in? Thanks for your thoughts. Regards Shane.

If you purchase new then Felder supply the Hammer units set-up ready for use. In my case I needed a few very minor adjustments to get it perfect but if your local agent is on the ball you wouldn't need even that. My machine was actually OK for general work as supplied, it was just that I was critical about perfect angles for panels and boxes etc., but it didn't need expertise as a mechanic to adjust it - just common sense.

I also know someone who bought their machine second hand and it didn't need any adjustments, so they hold the settings well.

I used it as delivered, got the results I expected so job done. If Felder (Peter?) is going to deliver get it checked over at the same time. At the time I got mine there was no information to allow the owner to adjust the machine to factory specs but the documentation has now become available and I picked it up myself.

My Felder C731 has 3 kW motors as does the Hammer 4400. I was advised to put in 20 amp circuits. Depending on how far from the switchboard your shed is, it may be necessary to upgrade. Do not forget the dust extractor which will run at the same time. I have the bandsaw and combination machine on one circuit (as only one will run at any one time), and the dust extractor on a second circuit. I saved on running the cables myself and having a sparky check and wire up.
My dust extractor is under the house, and to have a switch local to the saw had the sparky take the Felder switch off and mount it upstairs with suitable wiring. There are expensive switch modules which will switch remotely, with delays to avoid both motors starting at the same time (with large startup currents) but I thought that was a bit too much- if I was commercial it would probably make sense for the convenience.
The only extra that I wish I had added is the remote switch to start the saw- its a bit out of the way when cutting sheet goods

Amodyne, I have not encountered a remote switch and it is something I have always wanted, have you got any links or info on it? I tried Google with no success.

If I'm allowed to post links, then I found this video really helpful (as I'm contemplating the Hammer K3 as an option in a small space). This guy takes you through all the relevant measurements (including many you wouldn't consider!).
Mat

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bB-0mms4PeM