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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    81

    Default Help setting up table saw

    I've had this table saw for over a year now, and have just gotten to setting it up. When I first received it, it was the first time I ever saw a table saw in my life, and I had no idea I even had to set it up, much less how to do it.

    During this year, I've used it on a number of projects and it served me well, although I've definitely had issues with accuracy. Probably in part because of my lack of skill, but also because it was never properly set up.

    So, the other day I bought a proper straight edge (after finally learning that a level is not good enough) and the iGage Digi-Align, which is a digital version of dial indicator (in photos below).

    I've followed the instructions that came with the instrument to set everything up, and these are the measurements:

    - Arbor runout: -0.003"
    - Blade flatness: -0.002" - +0.003"
    - Miter slot parallelness to the blade: -0.009" (left slot); -0.0085" (right slot)
    - Fence: Here I took a number of measurements while sliding the fence left and right. All measurements from the left miter slot:
    - 0.0085"
    - 0.017"
    - 0.0055"
    - 0.0075"
    - 0.013"
    - you can see some of the measurements are considerably larger than others. There seems to be a spot along the fence track where this happens, but I can't see anything that's causing it. The table length front to back is 65cm.
    - the fence also moves very slightly when locking
    - Table itself: Unfortunately, this is where the biggest problem is, and it's hardest to fix. Including some photos for clarification. I don't have feeler gauges to measure precisely, but basically this is what I'm seeing:
    - Left extension wing: has a belly going down in the middle (front to back), about paper thickness
    - Main table, left of saw: has a belly going up, also along front to back, similarly about paper thickness. If I press the straight edge to one side, I get about double paper thickness space on the other. Right from the blade, the belly goes down. On the other axis, it seems to slant from right to left, a straight edge across the table left to right shows the drop on the left side of the blade that's quite big, probably ~1mm
    - Right extension wing: Has a belly in the same shape as the main table so they are aligned, about paper thickness


    Now, going from the directions supplied with the instrument, I need to align the table better to the blade (to get to 0.005"), and the fence is more or less ok. Does that sound correct?

    With regard to the table, the manual just says that the table needs to be flat and if there is any warping it can't be adjusted but needs to be fixed first. It doesn't say how much is too much or how to "fix" it. Is my table too warped? What are my options?

    During my work, I also noticed the riving knife seems to be a bit out of line with the blade, causing the stock to veer off to the left as I'm cutting. At lest I think it's the riving knife's fault. How is this set up?

    For what it's worth, the table saw in question is Hafco ST254.


    That's a lot of questions! Any help appreciated

    Right side of extension wing seems fine:
    IMG_20181023_190726.jpg
    On the left side of it there's a bit of a belly going down:
    IMG_20181023_190820.jpgIMG_20181023_190844.jpg
    To the left of the blade there's a belly going up:
    IMG_20181023_195508.jpgIMG_20181023_195543.jpgIMG_20181023_195605.jpg
    And then the left side of the wing has it going down:
    IMG_20181023_195609.jpg

    Across the table, there's a fairly big slant:
    IMG_20181023_195718.jpgIMG_20181023_195721.jpg

    This is how I was measuring arbor runout and blade flatness:
    IMG_20181023_200821.jpgIMG_20181023_201259.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,790

    Default

    I don't understand the fence measurements.

    I wouldn't worry too much about the flatness and focus on getting the riving knife and moving fence sorted.

    With the riving knife you should be able to loosen it slightly and then move it into place.
    It's usually a bit of a PITA because you you will need to remove the blade to loosen it.
    Them remount the blade to adjust the knife,
    Then remove the blade to retighten it.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    81

    Default

    Oh sorry, so for the fence I was again following the instructions with the align instrument.

    So, I insert it into the mitre slot at the beginning / front of the table, touch the fence and reset to zero. Then I move it all the way to the back, sliding in the slot, and then measure again. So it represents how much the fence deviates from the slot, along the length of the table (front to back).

    I was able to remove the riving knife without touching the blade, which is great. I'm just not sure how I'd align it to the blade. I'll search online, there must be something [emoji4]

    So not to worry too much about the table - thanks, that puts me a bit at ease [emoji16]

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
    Age
    65
    Posts
    4,681

    Default

    When checking the blade for parallel to the mitre slot did you put your dial indicator on the plate near a tooth at the front, mark this position on the blade, zero the indicator and then slide the gauge to the back of the blade and rotate the blade to line the mark up with the indicator probe again? Your measurements say about 9 thou out but your photo of the dial indicator shows the same reading at centre and the front of the blade.
    Do you have any photos of the mounting for the riving knife so that we might be able to advise you on adjustment.
    Dallas

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    81

    Default

    For the riving knife, there are four screws behind the mounting plate which can be adjusted to move it left or right, and event tilt. I think I managed to adjust that, using a straight edge across the blade and knife.

    Yeah, what you described is how I measured table parallelness to the blade. One of the photos was trying to show how I was measuring arbor runout.

    But I can't seem to properly adjust properly the table. There are four bolts underneath, with two nuts each. But all they do is raise and lower the corresponding table corner, and it seems no matter what I do the distance of one end of the blade is 0.009" different from the other end, to the mitre slot.

    The table saw manual doesn't say anything about it. I know there are a number of people here with the same saw, I was hoping to hear how they did it.

    Also the blade won't go all the way to 90 deg tilt - it goes to 89.80 and no further.




    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

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