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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    Australia
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    660

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohdan View Post
    You get a much straighter and smoother cut if you use the sliding table for ripping. It takes a change of mindset and the F&F jig but once you get used to it I doubt that you will go back to ripping against the fence.
    Was thinking more along the lines of jointing the second edge. Doing one edge makes sense to use the table, but getting a parallel board would surely be quicker and easier using the rip fence?

    That was handy vid chris. One of the first jobs I have lined up for the new machine is a bar table for out the front. Its 2.4m long, so was trying to think up a way of ripping a good edge using the table.

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

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    Has everyone here seen this...



    If anyone wants me stop posting this sort of stuff let me know but after tomorrow I might be too ill for a few days anyway so it may stop anyway. I have been conversing with another fellow forum member in the last few weeks about problems we have both found and the fixes that might help. During that time I uncovered quite a bit of stuff concerning the F&F jig which I didn't know. this link gives some background on it and why it is a freeby in Germany, that's right they give them away. I can't find the link but the quick background was that it was given to anyone who had a slider as a safety aid it trade shows etc.


    I have also found a source for the green stuff on the faces but it is in the US and to be frank I don't know if it is worth it. I got some from a Hammer owner on SMC and by the time I got it here the price was stupid and I have yet to use it. Here are two links, to look at Andy Giddings version on SMC it is necessary to log in but that doesn't cost anything but the moderation drives me nuts and I rarely post there any more. There are quite a few good threads on the site concerning sliders, more than anywhere else I know of so I will put some links up and your choice if you want to see the pictures.


    Andy Giddings on SMC a very nice jig using Incra fences and stop system: Fritz and Franz jig for a sliding table saw - getting repeatable and accurate cuts

    Hacks for Euro Saws. BTW Eric Loza on SMC and who started this thread sold Minimax in the US for many years but recently resigned: Euro machinery hacks, mods, and add-ons...

    Some cool ideas on this page but it preceded the F&F jig: How to use a sliding tablesaw at SoloWoodworker.com

    A new user started a thread on what he learned and I think he knew a lot more after he read the answers: Hammer K3 Winner - What I've learned in the last 6 months


    Someone put an Incra Mitre fence on a Hammer: Incra Crosscut Fence for the Hammer B3 / K3

    M&T Jig on a slider: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vg3YZQx-0qc

    Someone asked for a user guide on SMC, good luck with that, it hasn't been written yet: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...-K3-guide-book

    And just for giggles Martin's version of the F&F jig but conveniently they forgot to tell us the price: http://www.martin-usa.com/products/f...e-saw-comfort/


    Enjoy!
    CHRIS

  4. #33
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Peoples Republic of Bryn
    Posts
    393

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    I checked out the K3 when i dropped into the Felder workshop yesterday.

    It sure is a nice piece of equipment, although not as nice as the week old new Felder saw being used there now

    Here i was thinking of just getting a B3 as i thought i'd have space issues with the slider bench taking up to much room.

    After seeing how easy it was to take it off and reinstall, i know what i'll be saving up for now for next year.

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    660

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    Managed to get finally get some time in the shed. I wanted to make a set of draws for the battery tools and chargers, so decided its time to really test out the new saw.

    So far so good. I can rip a 2400x1200 sheet solo on the machine with no assistance. I have the fence set up and calibrated so that I can just dial up the end stop and I get an accurate cut. I have discovered that something is not quite square, and I suspect its the rip fence, but I will check it all tomorrow. About all I seem to use the rip fence for is an end stop anyway.

    I cut up the main carcass for the drawers today, and I used the dado set to make a rebate for the back panel. Man its nice to have a saw that is dado capable now. Tomorrow I will cut the back panel and glue up before moving onto the drawers. This set of draws is not going to be real flash, but its more about experimenting with the saw. Using 15mm CD ply. Still, I am impressed with the saw. The next set of draws will be for the saw itself, something to store all the blades and tooling.

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    Helensburgh
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    It is most probably the rip fence as it should be set to toe out a bit to avoid kickback and binding. I rarely use it except as a stop so I think I will put a round tube on the face of it and calibrate the fence to that. Being a point contact it then does not need to be square to the crosscut fence.
    CHRIS

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Australia
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    660

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    It is most probably the rip fence as it should be set to toe out a bit to avoid kickback and binding. I rarely use it except as a stop so I think I will put a round tube on the face of it and calibrate the fence to that. Being a point contact it then does not need to be square to the crosscut fence.
    Hi Chris, I may have a free day in Sydney next week, either Wednesday or Thursday and was maybe thinking about sneaking out for a quick visit if you are free. As usual, nothing is certain though.

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
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    Wednesday is no go unfortunately, give me a call when you know more.
    CHRIS

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