Thread: Newbie advice please...

Originally Posted by Uncle Henry

Going for the rustic look which should help hide my lack of experience! .

If anything I reckon it takes more experience and skill to achieve a half decent rustic look.outcome by going for a rustic look.
Projects like desks and tables have to function as well as look good so for a first up project it's probably better to go for a simple design using square straight timber and see if you can manage this.
Once you have mastered this then try for a rustic look.

You won't be able to use the planer as a thicknesser because it needs a reference surface opposite the cutters.
There are some old combination machine that used an overhead attachment that will turn a planer into a sort of thicknesser but they are not that safe to use because they don't have a drive roller to control the passage of the wood past the cutters.

Thanks Bob.

I guess part of the reason for using the reclaimed timber is cost.
The desk unfortunately needs to be 2500 long which looks like would cost as much in a nice thick dressed hardwood as it would to get a used table saw.

I'll practise on the small hall table first.

Am I better looking for a small used benchtop thicknesser and a used table saw on it's own?

Originally Posted by Uncle Henry

Thanks Bob.

I guess part of the reason for using the reclaimed timber is cost.
The desk unfortunately needs to be 2500 long which looks like would cost as much in a nice thick dressed hardwood as it would to get a used table saw.

By all means use reclaimed timber but just make sure it straight and square before assembly

Am I better looking for a small used benchtop thicknesser and a used table saw on it's own?

Probably.

Originally Posted by Uncle Henry

Hi all,

I'm starting to get into woodwork a little more and unsurprisingly lack a lot of the tools needed.

I'm a big fan of reclaimed timber and have some old hardwood timber from some walls removed during a reno. (typical stud frame, over 20 years old and not real straight)


I'd like to build a new office desk and hall table using this timber.

if you're using reclaimed timber, you really should get yourself a good metal detector to be sure you've found nearly all the nails before you start cutting or planing the wood. I say "nearly all" because all to often, one or two seem to slip past the detector.

Originally Posted by Uncle Henry

My budget is pretty limited so I'm looking around for 2nd hand gear but I know nothing about this sort of equipment.
I've found this for sale locally for $400:

Cabinet maker's table saw and planer. Table saw with adjustable guide. Saw blade can be easily lowered below bench when not in use. Multifunction planer can be used as an adjustable thicknesser. The steel frame is a bit rusty but still structurally sound. The machine itself is in good working order.


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I can see the planer is going to be pretty limited by size (maybe 6"?) Can this be used as a thicknesser?

I haven't contacted the seller yet as I don't know if it is right for want I want to do.

Can anyone advise if this is what I need or if there is a better option?
What sort of thing should I be looking at when buying 2nd hand machinery like this?

While I'm all for buying solid cast iron second hand machinery, I'm not sure I'd advise or recommend a beginner purchase a combination machine without any blade guards, especially guards on the jointer.
To much can go wrong with an unguarded machine and a user who is yet to develop a full suite of safe work habits.

That machine sure looks fearsome, like something out of a Mad Max movie

Note that you can use a thicknesser as a jointer (for the wide faces) with some care, but not the other way round. There are plenty of tips for that on You Tube.

Thanks for the feedback.

I'm not too stressed about safe work habits (within reason obviously). I have many years of metalworking experience with grinders, cut off saws and many unsafe/unguarded saws/machines etc. to take appropriate care to not lose digits. Agreed, the safer the better though.


Given the planer is not suited as a thicknesser and doesn't have a fence etc, what would it be best suited for?

I'm assuming a bunnings $200 Ozito table saw is not really going to be a great investment, so is this 2nd hand saw at $400 (or less hopefully) still worth it? And keep my eyes open for a used thicknesser if/when I need one?

The only 2nd hand saws I can see around are pretty exxy or cheap Ryobi/Ozito things which I don't think would cope with hardwood too well?

Originally Posted by Uncle Henry

Thanks for the feedback.

I'm not too stressed about safe work habits (within reason obviously). I have many years of metalworking experience with grinders, cut off saws and many unsafe/unguarded saws/machines etc. to take appropriate care to not lose digits. Agreed, the safer the better though.

Given the planer is not suited as a thicknesser and doesn't have a fence etc, what would it be best suited for?

I think you'll find the saw fence can be slid over and used as the planer fence - at least that's how one of the old machines we have at the mens shed works.

I don't like those machines where the saw and planer run off the same shaft - it's safer if one or the other can be disconnected.

There are some differences between safe used of metal and wood working gear so don't assume the experience from one will transfer all that readily to another. I have more experience with woody gear but reckon it is potentially worse than metal working gear. Unless you are working with something like MDF, wood being a non-uniform material makes it less predictable than metal. Knots and other changes in grain lead to non-uniform cut rates, grabs etc. If wood is really stressed, unlike metal, it can crack, shatter and splinter. Kickback from a table saw being especially nasty.

Originally Posted by Uncle Henry

Thanks for the feedback.

I'm not too stressed about safe work habits (within reason obviously). I have many years of metalworking experience with grinders, cut off saws and many unsafe/unguarded saws/machines etc. to take appropriate care to not lose digits. Agreed, the safer the better though.

after injuries from unguarded table saws and saws without riving knives, I understand the most common wood working injury is shortened fingers on a jointer. The hand pushing the wood across the cutter head ends up contacting the cutter.

Originally Posted by Uncle Henry

Given the planer is not suited as a thicknesser and doesn't have a fence etc, what would it be best suited for?

Best use is as a surface planner AKA a jointer. Used to get one face of a board flat.

Well Henry, looks like if you do buy that beast you're gonna have to apply your metal working skills and make some guards, ESPECIALLY if it is right that both sides run off one shaft. (and there's only one fence to share between them)

Got to say the jointer is the scariest thing in my shop

Thanks for the advice.

I'm going to go and look at it as I think having the planer and saw will be a good start. I'm just not sure if the fence is much good.
I might have to just save for a used thicknesser to complement it.

If I decide to buy it I'll make a guard for the planer asap.

Quick update.

I passed on this saw.
The motor is only 3/4 hp and it didn't like the 2' length of hardwood I took to test.
It got half way through but the motor was slowing down, had to keep backing off to let the motor keep up so I stopped.

The planer actually had a raisable table under underneath it (which you can just see in the last picture) to act as a thicknesser but I couldn't see any adjustment on the planer table top surfaces to allow different depths, is this normal?

On the whole the comments about it not looking real safe were pretty accurate. It didn't feel very safe to use.

Would have been workable with a more powerful motor I expect.

I'll keep looking.

I put off getting a table saw for ages because they scared me, but now I have one I realise the machine I fear most is one I already owned - the electric hand planer. The idea of using one flipped over on its back (a jointer) seems insane

The blade on that saw is too fine for ripping wood especially hardwood, and that is most likely why it was bogging down. You need something in the vicinity of 30 teeth, and who knows what the condition of the teeth were on that blade.
The other problem with that saw is the blade would not tilt, you have to angle the fence over instead to do angled cuts.

you could replace the motor yourself..