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  1. #1
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    Default Parallel Guide for Hammer K3 mk3

    Sam Blasco was my original inspiration for a parallel guide. Here is a video of Sam using his …





    Mike Kreinhop made a great one using an Incra LS25 positioner ...












    Then, two years into Covid and many tools are not available, I decided to use what I had and build my own. An Incra Positioner was out of the question, it is not available in Australia, with local versions costing upwards of $1000 (AUD).




    The main component was a 1m length of 8020 aluminium extrusion, identical to the one I used for my router table fence ...







    The fence came from an Incra mitre fence (which had been used with the original F&F I made a few years ago, and discarded when the reversed F&F was built).


    This is what I came up with ...








    Steel angle brackets are used to connect the base to the wagon ...





    These were then shaped and given a wooden cover for aesthetics ...





    The L-bracket on the underside which ensures the fence base is square to the side of the slider. This is adjustable ...





    In fact, everything is adjustable on this fixture. The Incra fence is attached with small L-clips, and the side screws enable the fence to be moved in-and-out on each side ...





    The base (rail) is a double sandwich of 8020 lengths ...





    The lower rail is 400mm long, and the upper rail (connecting to the fence) is 900mm long. The fence is 470mm long and 40mm wide.


    The lower rail has a sliding 6mm bolt (which can slide the full length) ...







    The uppe rail, as shown here upside down, moves on and is squared by two UHMW slides. It also has two positions for the 6mm bolt - one at the rear and one near the front. These enable the full length of the rails to be used.











    There is a total of 610mm width of cut when ripping. The scale on the upper rail is a steel rule. Alongside is an adjustable marker (I use the front edge) ...





    My K3 is a short stroke with the crosscut fence at the front of the slider wagon. The depth stop on this perfectly is aligned with the parallel guide.


    The depth stop on the Incra fence slides along its face ...





    The rails are attached via bolts to the side of the wagon, as shown earlier. The knobs allow for easier adjustment the full length of the slider ...





    This enables boards of varying lengths to be held securely (stop-to-stop) ...





    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Derek, I don't think I am flavour of the month on FOG for pointing out the obvious. I have worked out how to install DRO's on the crosscut fence and when I get a chance I will do it and post my version of the parallel guide. I have always liked Sam's version but like you can't stomach the cost of the Incra equipment. I am fortunate enough to have two CC fences and each with a DRO should work well enough. The picture shows how I mocked it up some time ago but the 2060 went into my computer table build.
    Parallel guide using two cross cut fences and 20 series extrusion.jpg
    CHRIS

  4. #3
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    Default

    Chris, your design and my own have a great deal in common.

    Neither of us are flavour of the month. . Clearly, the FOG (Felder Owners Group) is a bit of a closed shop. I was very taken aback by the "attack" there. Unbelievable! I freely offer an alternate - and inexpensive - design, and someone says that it is not as good as one costing (literally) 100 times as much. Duh!

    I think that a big part of the issue is the same as on the other FOG (Festool Owners Group), where no one responded to my post on a MFT hinge build. I suspect that both these forums are filled with those who love purchasing expensive tools. They have no interest in making tools to use. So the more expensive, in ownership, the greater the validation of their prowess as a woodworker. Yet many are hobbiests and not professionals. Very deep pockets! Even among the pros I do wonder how they justify actually needing a $30K or $100K slider? The cynical side of me says, "What? To make cutting boards?!".

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  5. #4
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    Sep 2012
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    I find your write ups refreshing Derek on how someone like myself who has spent most of the outlay on the units themselves and dont like the idea to spend 2k aud for the commercially made parallel guides from the US.

    I’m looking for sources of the materials you’ve used in yours. My incra positioner I did have was sold with my previous table saw unfortunately so I’ll be following something like yours for some accessories with my sliding table.

    Appreciate your comprehensive contributions. Thanks
    Nathan

  6. #5
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    Thanks Nathan. I hope this is all useful.

    I purchased the aluminium extrusion on eBay and brackets at Bunnings.

    I reckon it should cost around $40-$50 for all materials (excluding the Incra fence, which I had). Look at my recent router fence modification for insights on clamping a fence to the rails (needs corner pieces).

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  7. #6
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    Sep 2009
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    Derek, thanks for sharing the detail.

    You have two plastic 'slides' i.e. rectangular strips that slide in the slots to guide the movement in and out. This depends on the fit of these slides in the slot - which can be a fiddle, and depending on the plastic / material used, the fit can change substantially with different humidity.

    What about having side plates / cheeks bolted to the upper extrusion sides and extending down to mate with the lower extrusion? The top extrusion / fence would still just drop on. What are your thoughts having used your design and various jigs on your slider?
    Side plates could also be used for the locking bolt(s) if desired.

    (I have recently mostly completed my Fritz and Franz and found it annoying to get chopping board plastic slides just right for the slider slot)

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by pippin88 View Post
    Derek, thanks for sharing the detail.

    You have two plastic 'slides' i.e. rectangular strips that slide in the slots to guide the movement in and out. This depends on the fit of these slides in the slot - which can be a fiddle, and depending on the plastic / material used, the fit can change substantially with different humidity.

    What about having side plates / cheeks bolted to the upper extrusion sides and extending down to mate with the lower extrusion? The top extrusion / fence would still just drop on. What are your thoughts having used your design and various jigs on your slider?
    Side plates could also be used for the locking bolt(s) if desired.

    (I have recently mostly completed my Fritz and Franz and found it annoying to get chopping board plastic slides just right for the slider slot)
    Hi Nick

    The "plastic" you see is UHMW. It saws with some roughness but planes easily. I used a shooting board to size it. The best fit I found was when it was tight. Then either take the lightest ever cut, or lubricate it.

    My first go-round with the rails was to use side cheeks, as you suggested ...





    It is a while ago, but it did not work well - I think that it limited the width available, and there were projections to bump into.

    The existing system is working really well.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  9. #8
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    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pippin88 View Post
    Derek, thanks for sharing the detail.

    You have two plastic 'slides' i.e. rectangular strips that slide in the slots to guide the movement in and out. This depends on the fit of these slides in the slot - which can be a fiddle, and depending on the plastic / material used, the fit can change substantially with different humidity.

    What about having side plates / cheeks bolted to the upper extrusion sides and extending down to mate with the lower extrusion? The top extrusion / fence would still just drop on. What are your thoughts having used your design and various jigs on your slider?
    Side plates could also be used for the locking bolt(s) if desired.

    (I have recently mostly completed my Fritz and Franz and found it annoying to get chopping board plastic slides just right for the slider slot)
    For my F&F jig I had some UHMW round pins made in a lathe, these match the top of the opening exactly instead of trying to make slides that fit in the slot.

    20230305_233031_030.jpg
    CHRIS

  10. #9
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    Newcastle
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post

    Neither of us are flavour of the month. . Clearly, the FOG (Felder Owners Group) is a bit of a closed shop. I was very taken aback by the "attack" there. Unbelievable! I freely offer an alternate - and inexpensive - design, and someone says that it is not as good as one costing (literally) 100 times as much. Duh!

    I think that a big part of the issue is the same as on the other FOG (Festool Owners Group), where no one responded to my post on a MFT hinge build. I suspect that both these forums are filled with those who love purchasing expensive tools. They have no interest in making tools to use. So the more expensive, in ownership, the greater the validation of their prowess as a woodworker. Yet many are hobbiests and not professionals. Very deep pockets! Even among the pros I do wonder how they justify actually needing a $30K or $100K slider? The cynical side of me says, "What? To make cutting boards?!".

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    I think that Mr Lamb just doesn't like anyone disagreeing with him... or suggesting his stuff is (exorbitantly) expensive.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bernmc View Post
    I think that Mr Lamb just doesn't like anyone disagreeing with him... or suggesting his stuff is (exorbitantly) expensive.
    The same goes for David Best in spades. The furore that erupted when someone dared to suggest using Chinese DRO's was an excellent example of the forum closing ranks and trying to prove that using any other than what they approved of was just not on. I added some fuel to the fire this morning concerning importing but I doubt I will get any sort of reaction because myself and Derek are right and Lamb know's it.
    CHRIS

  12. #11
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    I guess so. Brian appears to grudgingly give ground. Since that post, a number of the FOG members have contacted me to acknowledge to comments made by Chris (Parks) and myself. Not everyone can justify the atmospheric prices some love to throw about. Indeed, many purchase their equipment used, and restore it, or are looking for cost-effective upgrades which will not break the bank.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  13. #12
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    Hi Derek, did you source your 2080 or 8020 aluminium extrusion from eBay or elsewhere?

    Thanks
    Nathan

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by delbs View Post
    Hi Derek, did you source your 2080 or 8020 aluminium extrusion from eBay or elsewhere?

    Thanks
    Nathan

    Hi Nathan

    From eBay (see post #5 )

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by delbs View Post
    Hi Derek, did you source your 2080 or 8020 aluminium extrusion from eBay or elsewhere?

    Thanks
    Nathan
    Try this site, I bought all the stuff for my router table from them with no issues.

    Home - T-slot Aluminium | Modular Components & Automation
    CHRIS

  16. #15
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    Default Parallel Guide for Hammer K3 mk3

    Great thanks Chris and Derek.

    I was looking for an Australian supplier for 8020 for logistical purposes but will look again to see what it’s like to import

    I have a few clamps in use already on the slider but a parallel slider would be amazing for the rip cuts so thought I’d source all the parts. Great write up Derek

    Cheers
    Nathan

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