Thread: Power for a Hammer K3

It should run on a 15A circuit quite happily as full rated current (calculated) is only about 13A (depending on the motor efficiency and power factor) and you will rarely push it to full load unless you do a thick rip with the wrong blade.

The only possible problem is the starting current and you may need to install a slow blow circuit breaker.

Thanks Bohdan. The Felder agent (who installed my other machines) mentioned that I should hold the starter button down for about 3 seconds (as opposed to stabbing it briefly to start). He said that this would help the starting process on 15A. Does this mean something to you, or others here?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

I am soon to take delivery of a Hammer K3 Basic (1250 slider and upgraded fence). This is a 4 h.p. motor. What amp is needed to feed it?

I also have a Hammer N4400 bandsaw, which runs on 20 amp, and a Hammer A3-31 thicknesser-planer (spiral head), which is very happy on 15 amp. Both have the same 4 h.p. motor.

I am hoping that the K3 will be equally happy on 15 amp, since it will replace a 3 hp tablesaw, which leaves its power available for this purpose.

Your thoughts?

Regards from Perth

Derek

15 amps is sufficient for a basic slider, the book says more but Hammer do not differentiate between a full combination machine and the single motor saw. I recall you writing that you were getting a B3??

Hi Chris

B3 was a typo. I meant to write K3. As noted earlier, it comes with the slider from the 48-31, and the cast iron fence (as opposed to the alloy fence). I am happier with the small model. It is large enough for working with hardwoods, and the small foot print is needed in my workshop.

Which do you have? I seem to recall you have the K3 as well??

Regards from Perth

Derek

I have the K3 Winner with the short table. I don't know how far you are into the order process but I would specify the fence with fine adjustment if it were me, that combined with a Wixey is the ultimate rip fence set up. The aluminium fence is more versatile than the cast iron fence as it can be used as a tall or shallow fence as needed especially if ripping a bevel. Having said that I hardly use the rip fence as just about all my ripping is done on the slider using the Fritz and Frans jig and the rip fence just serves as a measured stop. I don't know if you have read much on using sliders but SMC has quite a lot going back some years and there is some really useful stuff there.

When a single phase motor starts, a starter winding in the motor is energised via a capacitor. This starter current is only required for a brief time to get the motor up to speed.

It is commonly switched off via a centrifugally activated contact in the motor but these switches are unreliable and often need maintenance.

It appears that Hammer may be using the start button to control it. You release the button and the start winding is turned off.

You only need to hold it in until the motor is up to full speed.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

I have the K3 Winner with the short table. I don't know how far you are into the order process but I would specify the fence with fine adjustment if it were me, that combined with a Wixey is the ultimate rip fence set up. The aluminium fence is more versatile than the cast iron fence as it can be used as a tall or shallow fence as needed especially if ripping a bevel. Having said that I hardly use the rip fence as just about all my ripping is done on the slider using the Fritz and Frans jig and the rip fence just serves as a measured stop. I don't know if you have read much on using sliders but SMC has quite a lot going back some years and there is some really useful stuff there.

Hi Chris

Thanks. I have done a ton of reading and viewing (and have seen your posts on SMC ). I am familiar with the F&F jig. The 1250mm slider is a compromise between the extra long sliders and the original basic 800 one. It should be fine for ripping the lengths I typically work with.

The cast iron "Professional rip fence" has the same aluminium extrusion for the fence but has a cast iron locking section on a round steel bar (where the original Basic is an alu extrusion). In other words, it has the same twin set up.

I already have the Wixey and I will get the fine adjuster (although I am used to tapping the fence).

Incidentally, that "short table" you refer to, is that the grey extension table? Do you find it useful?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by Bohdan

When a single phase motor starts, a starter winding in the motor is energised via a capacitor. This starter current is only required for a brief time to get the motor up to speed.

It is commonly switched off via a centrifugally activated contact in the motor but these switches are unreliable and often need maintenance.

It appears that Hammer may be using the start button to control it. You release the button and the start winding is turned off.

You only need to hold it in until the motor is up to full speed.

Ahha! Bohdan, that is what I was instructed to do. Thanks for clarifying this.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Hi Chris

Thanks. I have done a ton of reading and viewing (and have seen your posts on SMC ). I am familiar with the F&F jig. The 1250mm slider is a compromise between the extra long sliders and the original basic 800 one. It should be fine for ripping the lengths I typically work with.

The cast iron "Professional rip fence" has the same aluminium extrusion for the fence but has a cast iron locking section on a round steel bar (where the original Basic is an alu extrusion). In other words, it has the same twin set up.

I already have the Wixey and I will get the fine adjuster (although I am used to tapping the fence).

Incidentally, that "short table" you refer to, is that the grey extension table? Do you find it useful?

Regards from Perth

Derek

By short table I meant the 1250 sliding table. I worked out later after I bought the machine that the chassis is basically the same for all K3's and it it the table that defines the table stroke. The longer tables have the travel stops further apart giving a longer stroke. I was puzzled about the CI fence and took it to be the fence itself not the travelling head. I have the same fence as you have ordered and fitted a Wixey and it is a killer set up for repeatability. When I first received the machine it had a problem with the head sticking on the bar and Felder were unable to fix it so I pulled it apart and machined some new parts and all has been fine since. The fine adjuster was not held positively enough and allowed the clamps in the head to move out of line and stop the head being moved.

I have a B3, I have it running on a 15A circuit along with my CV1800.

Originally Posted by Pearo

I have a B3, I have it running on a 15A circuit along with my CV1800.

Not sure I'd be running anything else on a 15amp circuit along with a cv1800. Mine draws over 15 amps continuous on it's own.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

I am soon to take delivery of a Hammer K3 Basic (1250 slider and upgraded fence). This is a 4 h.p. motor. What amp is needed to feed it?

I also have a Hammer N4400 bandsaw, which runs on 20 amp, and a Hammer A3-31 thicknesser-planer (spiral head), which is very happy on 15 amp. Both have the same 4 h.p. motor.

I am hoping that the K3 will be equally happy on 15 amp, since it will replace a 3 hp tablesaw, which leaves its power available for this purpose.

Your thoughts?

Regards from Perth

Derek

I haven't been a regular contributor to this forum but I know you have been Derek and I'm also from Perth - for what that's worth!
I'm replying in this case because I have a similar machinery setup to what you're describing. I have the Hammer N4400 bandsaw, a Felder Dust Extractor and the C3/31 Combo machine which has the same 4HP motor and power draw as the unit you're about to install. I run the above 3 machines on separate dedicated 15 AMP circuits without any problems. I'm not sure what AMPs the saw actually draws but I would typically run the saw and the dusty together for example - again without any problems. The power to my my shed/workshop is via a 40 AMP circuit - but it's all single phase stuff. I've been happy with all that Felder/Hammer gear. You should be fine.

Regards

Paul

Originally Posted by DomAU

Not sure I'd be running anything else on a 15amp circuit along with a cv1800. Mine draws over 15 amps continuous on it's own.

Yours has a 16" impeller so that will need extra power.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

Yours has a 16" impeller so that will need extra power.

Yeah, mine draws between 18 and 20. I assume a 15" would still draw around 15. Given most circuits run 20amp wiring and circuit breakers this might allow something else to run at thd same time for limited periods (you typically don't run a table saw continuously) but it's pushing it IMO.