Thread: Precision levels

I borrowed Pat"s Starrett which did an excellent job. Check to see what it looks like first using a good straight edge. A level is just about not needed, put a straight edge on the slider, measure the gap where the slider meets the cast iron, measure at the other end and get them both the same at each end relative to the CI top. I set mine about 2 thou proud of the CI top. The other important setting is the slider run out past the blade, I set that by observation and sound so the back of the blade does not cut the timber. There is a setting for it but sight and sound works just as well.

The levels on Ebay seem to be a reasonable thing, Accusize is one I have seen recommended.

You shouldn't need anything more than a straightedge and feeler gauges to set the sliding table, that's all the tech used for ours at work and he's ex-Altendorf.

The official number in the book for height above the main table is 0.1mm (4 thou), but if you can get it closer that's great. Sideways runout should be set so you can just hear a flutter as the timber passes the back of the blade, but it should not cut

As said above a precision level is way above what you need, you could use one but I would not buy just for that job

I used one to level the CI table but then realised that all that was needed was to get the slider at the right height above the CI table at all four points. If the CI table was stupidly out then you would need to start there of course, maybe if the table had been off the machine it would need checking.

Some good thoughts there.

I watched this Youtube video (https://youtu.be/x_HbyPzzhDk) and it seems pretty straight forward with the level. Hence my question.

The problem for me is the slider is not coplanar with the cast iron surface. The outside edge of the slider is lower than the edge next to the cast iron top. That is, dipping down. I have a Veritas straight edge and with feeler guages, I should be able to get real close without a level. It would easier with the level but doable without.

Thanks for the thoughts.

Originally Posted by markharrison

Some good thoughts there.

I watched this Youtube video (https://youtu.be/x_HbyPzzhDk) and it seems pretty straight forward with the level. Hence my question.

The problem for me is the slider is not coplanar with the cast iron surface. The outside edge of the slider is lower than the edge next to the cast iron top. That is, dipping down. I have a Veritas straight edge and with feeler guages, I should be able to get real close without a level. It would easier with the level but doable without.

Thanks for the thoughts.

Mark, my experience is that a level just complicates things, all that needs doing is getting the slider coplaner with the cast iron top. You can get the cast iron top near enough with a good general purpose level to begin with by using the adjustable feet. I was of the same opinion as you but having done it a few times I have concluded that the level is not necessary if the machine is basically level. Brian Lamb shows using a level in the linked video. He manufactures air clamps for sliding table saws but bring your money with you!

Any form of precision level would be pointless in my opinion, as you are trying to establish relative heights. Sure, if the outer edge is lower than than the table, a level placed between them should show it, provided that the table itself is perfectly level. But having the table perfectly level is not a prerequisite for setting up the saw to work effectively. To set the slider height to the table with a level, you would first have to get the table levelled with that level, which could take some time and effort because you have to lift and shim the entire saw, not just the table top. Whereas, if you use a straight edge and feelers, you automatically take the angle of the table top out of the equation and you are simply dealing with trying to match slider height and inclination to the table height.