Thread: Replacement 30mm Arbor for Hafco SB-12 Tablesaw

If you are going to pull the arbour drive out I would make an adaptor with drive pins in it ala the European saws and that adaptor would have a drive key machined into the existing arbour. I think you need to go to a 30mm arbour to get a 305mm blade these days.

Maybe I am reading this wrong it does not matter if the bush slips (although it should be press fit) the flanges are what grip the blade

Someone please correct me if I"m wrong, but isn't 16mm arbor what our US cousins call 5/8th? (25.4 / 8 = 3.175 x 5 = 15.875).

If I am right in my thinking, this is the same arbor as a SawStop.

In which case, you need a few of these: https://www.carbatec.com.au/blades/a...sh-30mm-to-5-8

You then hammer those into any 30mm arbor blade your heart desires, and leave one in each blade.

If you don't want to muck about with those, check Amazon US site, there are a myriad of 5/8" arbor blades on there

Originally Posted by Midnight Man

Someone please correct me if I"m wrong, but isn't 16mm arbor what our US cousins call 5/8th? (25.4 / 8 = 3.175 x 5 = 15.875).

I'm 99% sure you're right

Much easier to just use reducers or get a 5/8'' arbor blade. If you go looking for a dado stack then 5/8'' is the arbor to have. 5/8'' is the USA standard and 30mm is the European standard. Here on Oz we still have to make our minds up.

Regards
John

I think the OP wants to use 305mm blades which I think are only available in a 30mm arbor. As Elan would know the weight and rotating mass of these blades is dealt with by using drive pins on all OEM saws or at least on the ones I am familiar with. I guess this is due to the rotating assembly being so heavy. I would be using drive pins and a key if an adapter had to be made up, anything else is a band aid.

No, they don't all have pins. The only saws I've seen with them had quick-change systems for the blade which, I'm assuming, don't provide the same clamping force as a traditional lock nut.

They're certainly not necessary with a hex nut; I can stall a 10 hp 16" rip saw and the blade doesn't go anywhere.

Hello,

Thanks to everyone for their responses.

The issue is that hafco used to have blades for there 305mm SB-12 tablesaw that had 16mm bores, but they no longer supply them.

As for the inserts, I have these for fitting into the centre of the 30mm bore blades but cannot get the full power anymore before the blades start to slip and the blade stalls. What I am wanting is the name of the supplier of the 16mm bore blades that hafco used if possible, or alternatively, a supplier for a new arbor so I can take the saw apart and install a new 30mm arbor (cut and replace, I do not have a lathe).

Thanks one again...

In which case, you need a few of these: https://www.carbatec.com.au/blades/a...sh-30mm-to-5-8

This is what I am using. They're useless, they slip under load...

Originally Posted by seneilsen

In which case, you need a few of these: https://www.carbatec.com.au/blades/a...sh-30mm-to-5-8

This is what I am using. They're useless, they slip under load...

Something is not right because there should be no load on the adaptor, it only centres the blade and the blade is held by the arbour flanges. The centre of the flanges are relieved so that the blade should be held by the rim of the flange only. If the flange is hitting the saw blade in the centre or is clamping on the adaptor then the flange may have been overtightened and is bent or the adaptor is too thick for the blade.

The slipping is most probably being caused by the reduced surface clamping area brought on by the larger arbor hole and the original clamping washers and nuts not being designed for the larger hole. Just a guess but worth looking at.

Simply changing bore size shouldn't change the clamping unless something else is off.

I found this interesting when doing mine (SB12 10A) https://woodgears.ca/saw_arbor/index.html

This tutorial shows the flattening and truing process, which indirectly may solve your slipping problem.

I did this for my cheap saw and it now cuts like a laser. Very happy. (I use the Freud P410T and P412... but these aren't a recco for your own arbor size problem).

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

Simply changing bore size shouldn't change the clamping unless something else is off.

I have not seen the design of the washers so why not if the extra material is needed for clamping?