Results 1 to 4 of 4
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Southern Brisbane, QLD
    Posts
    230
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Rip vs Crosscut vs Panel Saws

    I did a forum search but couldn't find anything on this, so I figured I'd ask.

    The woodworking books I have distinguish between rip, crosscut and panel saws. These books aren't old - they've all been published post-2000. When I go into bunnings, or look in the carbatec catalogue, there are crosscut and panel saws but there don't seem to be any rip saws. Do people not use these any more?

    And while I'm at it, I may as well ask - is there a brand of saw I should go after that sits above "bargain basement" but isn't as expensive as Pax (which seems to be carbatec's mainstay)? Is the upper end of the bunnings range OK? I got my spear and jackson brass-backed tenon saw there, and it seems OK so far.

    Thanks guys,
    James.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many
     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Gosford
    Posts
    604
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Hand saws types are generally defined by the size of the teeth and the angles they are sharpened at. I imagine it would be somewhat hard to find a new rip saw for sale these days, although it is quite easy to convert a crosscut saw to a rip saw simply by re-sharpening the teeth, keeping the file at 90 degrees to the saw blade during the proces and with no "down-angle" on the file handle (ie. horizontal). This is what distinguishes the "rip" from the "crosscut" - one cuts along the grain (rip) and one cuts across the grain. The panel saw is pretty much a cross cut saw with a smaller tooth size for more detailed work, although some (me) like to change the "rake" (forward angle) of the tooth a little.

    Although the subtleties and difference in appearance is slight, the differing performance on each type of cut is dramatic. The rip saw cut tends to act like a series of little chisels cutting a square trench along the grain, while the crosscut acts like a series of left & right hand knife cuts neatly severing the fibres on each side of the cut. When the saw is properly sharpened you can quite clearly see this in action if you remove the saw from the timber and closely examine the kerf (saw cut). You would also generally prefer to have a tooth size of around 4-6 teeth per inch for a rip saw - quite large.

    With the cost nowadays of a GMC power saw (not that I'd own one) at around $30-$40 the rip saw probably holds little appeal these days, and they can be hard work as well. If you wanted one I would look for a nice Disston handsaw (1950-1960 vintage) on eBay and send it off to the saw doctor for a clean-up and resharpening in the rip saw profile.

    There's a lot to be said for the hardened point disposable saws which are every where these days. They last for ages under all sorts of use & abuse and you just chuck them when blunt and buy another for $20.00. However, I've still got my full set of hand saws in my saw bags and my sharpening clamp, even if I don't use them too often any more.

    Wayne
    Don't Just Do it..... Do It HardenFast!

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Forest Grove, Oregon USA
    Posts
    496
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Hi James,

    In general, most authors since the early 1900s use the designation of "panel" saw for any saw irregardless of tooth configuration for hand saws 24" or shorter. A few authors make the break between "panel" and "hand saw" a little less than 24" (I've seen 20" and 22" as the divider).

    Generally (and back in the day), the shorter the saw is the thinner the plate is the blade comes from and or the degree of taper grinding. As well, the most sold tooth configurations were more teeth per inch as the saw gets shorter. All makes sense.

    Pax and Roberts and Lee do still make rip hand saws. I don't think S&J does any longer, nor does Bahco (formerly the Sandvik brand).

    As long as the saw is not the hardpoint type, like Wayne says, a cross cut can easily become a rip profile (and vice versa). And also like he mentions, a good used saw is a viable option. I've got a "few" that I have gotten from either eBay or second-hand shops.

    Take care, Mike

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Southern Brisbane, QLD
    Posts
    230
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Thanks guys.

    It seems strange that my books talk about getting a rip saw when they're not readily available .

    I'm enjoying working with hand tools hence why I wanted to make sure the equipment I get is right for the task. There is something very fulfilling about doing things by hand rather than buzzing straight through a piece of timber.

    Will using a hard-tooth crosscut saw for ripping reasonably short lengths damage the saw, or just be bloody hard work?

    (Off to check ebay for a Disston )

Similar Threads

  1. panel saws
    By peres23 in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 22nd Dec 2006, 08:42 PM
  2. Replies: 24
    Last Post: 7th Aug 2006, 11:54 PM
  3. Towards to perfect dovetail/small tenon saw tote
    By derekcohen in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 30
    Last Post: 5th May 2006, 08:56 AM
  4. WC2000 in crosscut mode
    By All thumbs in forum TRITON / GMC
    Replies: 32
    Last Post: 6th Nov 2005, 02:22 PM
  5. Sharpening from Crosscut to Rip
    By Green Woodchips in forum SHARPENING
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 24th Nov 2004, 08:00 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •