Thread: Zero clearance throat plate

Kev I use the front fence on my sled for mitre cuts that way the 45 deg kerf is only the length of the work very accurate and a lot safer I reckon. Got to clamp the piece to the fence though or things can get ugly.

I don't have a 45 deg throat plate but I don't see why you can't tilt the blade and just raise it through the plate that is clamped in position.

I though about using the mitre gauge set at 45 and leaving the blade at 90 and using the zero plate ,but I like to cut the 45 across the width rather than the thickness ie the timber on the face rather than on the edge.
Because the blade travels in an arc as you crank it over it would cut a wide kerf in the plate , plus once the teeth break through the ply it would not cut once the teeth got above the top surface of the ply and the blade body would rub on the ply.
Bit hard to explain .

I'll think more on it..
Thanks for your reply .
Kev.

Probably not ideal, but you could use a sacrificial bit of MDF/ply/whatever to support the piece being cut

Woodlee,
How about cutting the shape required, then mark accurately where the saw cut would land in its 45 degree position, and how high you would be running the blade....then make a slice into you newly shaped piece but don't cut all the way through. Now you just need to cut a fill in piece to go into the sawcut of the zero clearance piece from the back of the blade to the outside of the clearance piece. So now you have it ready to work,.. to fit, you would need to remove the 90 degree clearance plate, tilt the saw over to 45 and adjust height them put the 45 plate over saw and into position.
It would be easier to draw it in some sawdust on the floor

Kev, I must be missing something. Can you not just fit a blank insert turn the saw on and wind it up through it at 45º ?

Cheers
Michael

I dont think so as the blade travels in an arc as it winds from 90 to 45 and the side of the blade will rub on the insert as it comes through .
Ill try it but I dont think it will work.

Kev.

Originally Posted by Woodlee

I dont think so as the blade travels in an arc as it winds from 90 to 45 and the side of the blade will rub on the insert as it comes through .
Ill try it but I dont think it will work.

Kev.

Hi Kev sorry don't understand what you mean 'as it winds from 90 to 45'.
I wind my blade to 45º, wind it right back into the cabinet, fit the blank plate, turn the saw on and wind it up through the plate. This doesn't involve an angle change to the saw.

Cheers
Michael

As suggested the easier option would be a sliding table/sacraficial board. Get a big board, cut it about 3/4 of it's length, put your job atop it. I'd use 1/4 ply or something so you don't lose too much saw blade depth.

I have my router side table so I can always do 45 degree faces with a chamfer bit.

2c.

Hey Woodlee,

I don't think that trying to wind the 45 degree blande up through a blank will work, as the height adjustment goes straight up and down and not at the angle of the blade (on My saw anyway). My solution would be to make a Sled dedicated to 45 degree cuts, or as stated before use a Sacraficial board under your good piece. A sled with a coulpe of adjustable Toggle clamps would be the go IMHO.

HazzaB

Originally Posted by HazzaB

Hey Woodlee,

I don't think that trying to wind the 45 degree blande up through a blank will work, as the height adjustment goes straight up and down and not at the angle of the blade (on My saw anyway). My solution would be to make a Sled dedicated to 45 degree cuts, or as stated before use a Sacraficial board under your good piece. A sled with a coulpe of adjustable Toggle clamps would be the go IMHO.

HazzaB

Ah, ok that maybe what Kev is talking about. On mine, height raising always travels in the plane of the blade so it is easy to do that.

Cheers
Michael

As Hazza says that's what I was trying to describe .
I think I have it worked out , start out with a blank throat plate ,and the blade at 90 and wind it up through the plate ,wind it back down tilt the blade 5 or 10 deg then wind it up again , wind down tilt anther 5-10 deg and wind up again and so on until you get the blade over to 45deg. It's a bit of work but I think it's the only way to do it.
Will try it on the weekend and see how it goes.
A sled would work .
Kev.

Originally Posted by Woodlee

As Hazza says that's what I was trying to describe .
I think I have it worked out , start out with a blank throat plate ,and the blade at 90 and wind it up through the plate ,wind it back down tilt the blade 5 or 10 deg then wind it up again , wind down tilt anther 5-10 deg and wind up again and so on until you get the blade over to 45deg. It's a bit of work but I think it's the only way to do it.
Will try it on the weekend and see how it goes.
A sled would work .
Kev.

But then it wouldn't be zero clearance, would it?

Hi Woodlee, I just finished man handling my saw (woo hoo ) off my ute. I removed the top to lighten the load and i couldn't help noticing that the height adjustment pivots with the blade. You should be able to wind the blade all the way in. Tilt to 45 then turn the saw on and wind it up through the blank throat plate while it is at 45 as described by Mic. Of course i don't even have it together yet so i could be just deleriously hysterical. But I couldn't help having a bit of a play and that's how it looks.
Must say i'm very happy with the quality and finish of the saw. So far.

NC ,
I'll try it tomorrow.
BTW you will love the saw .

Kev.