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Thread: Rusty cast iron table
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31st December 2012, 12:51 AM #1New Member
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Rusty cast iron table
I have a relatively new and rather expensive panel saw and separate planer/thicknesser both with cast iron beds. These were recently commissioned (in summer time) in my oak barn but due to the extraordinary amount of rain both through the summer and more recently during the winter months the moisture in the air has caused rusting on the iron beds and saw blades. The barn is waterproof but clearly the wet ground hasn't helped the situation.
I will investigate making the barn airtight but in the meantime can anyone advise a) how best to safely remove the rust and b) to prevent it recurring?
Any advice would be appreciated.
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31st December 2012 12:51 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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31st December 2012, 06:49 PM #2
Smartwood,
I would get some wet & Dry paper, 600/800 Grit with a can of WD40 or similar, to clean off the rust, it will only be surface, and the fine grit will not score the plates.
You could then use 1200/2000 GRIT to finish then coat with a water dispersant spray, to stop the rust, and cover with a cloth.
If you can attach the paper to an orbital sander even better.
jeff
vk4
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31st December 2012, 08:34 PM #3.
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I would avoid using WD40 or the standard CRC product as they offer little long term protection.
If you hunt around on this forum you will see products like G15 and CRC 3-36 seem to get the thumbs up.
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31st December 2012, 09:38 PM #4
...or check out my little look at some of the more common rust preventatives here:
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/storing-tools-whiteboard-without-rusting-159134/
(Hint...petroleum jelly isn't just good for preventing nappy rash on babies!)
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6th January 2013, 03:20 PM #5Novice
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- Redland Bay, QLD
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A good wax works well. Boeshield G2870 T-9 is recommended by many. Do not use a silicone product. If your tools are being dripped on, you'll have to come up with a breathable cover. If it's water tight, you'll have condensation.
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15th January 2013, 02:44 PM #6
I currently use SilverGlide from Carbatec - see here:
Silverglide Dry Slip : CARBA-TEC
It works______________
Mark
They only call it a rort if they're not in on it
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25th January 2013, 05:16 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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- Mar 2009
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rust
I just bought some silverglide and was wondering how people apply it. Don't know how to read german on the can. I scrubbed all my surfaces back first with INOX and a Scourer, wiped dry with clean cloth, then applied silverglide with clean cloth. But how much to apply? Did I put on enough, did I put on too much, I guess time will tell. Would it be better to apply it with steel wool?
Any Advice..
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26th January 2013, 07:36 AM #8
You apply with a clean cloth - just enough to give it a smear coating. In fact less is even better. The metal will feel smoother but there should be no residual if you wipe your finger across.
Never ever use steel wool - it will leave little wool fibres which seem to start rusting the moment you start using the stuff.______________
Mark
They only call it a rort if they're not in on it
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27th January 2013, 11:34 AM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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silverglide
Thanks Markw,
Went out and checked today and table saw felt good but thicknesser and jointer was a bit sticky so gave a quick buff with clean rag. Quite a bit of moisture around at the moment so will be good to see how it goes.
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