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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    New Zealand
    Age
    47
    Posts
    37

    Default New Sawstop PCS tripping breaker

    So had it a few weeks. Not really used it until today other than checking alignment etc. On the odd startup it will trip the breaker. Did it once this morning. Not at all this afternoon - maybe 12 to 15 starts. Then 3 out of 9 starts early this evening.

    Seems to be working fine when running. Normal NZ Voltage - 230/240V Single Phase. On its own dedicated circuit with a 16A breaker. Prior to chasing down the supplier I'm thinking this is to do with the initial inrush of current at startup.

    All lights are doing what they should. Solid Green light after it's gone through initialization etc.


    I noted when I purchased my Hammer A31 Jointer / Planer they told me to install a D curve breaker for startup but the Sawstop is on a new Hagar 16A C Breaker and is an RCBO - so it provides overcurrent as well as earth leakage. Guessing one of them is happening !

    Any ideas ? Do I need a D curve on this circuit as well ? Will also speak to the sparky who installed it.

    Thanks for the thoughts

    Ged
    Last edited by Gedc; 12th Aug 2018 at 05:19 PM. Reason: Tidied up some info

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    se Melbourne
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    57
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    Default

    Talk to your sparky.
    It might be more a current leakage than over current. It might even be due to moisture in the air and motor/wiring.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Hunter Valley
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    Default

    We've seen this in these forums before.

    From memory, you need a type "D" circuit breaker when this is happening, and again from memory, these usually aren't fitted by default because most sparkies don't know you're about to use this type of kit with a certain peak load at startup that is enough to trip a normal breaker.

    Let me see if I can find the thread...

    EDIT: Found, as I'd bookmarked it when I read it in case mine produced the same issue: SAWSTOP PCS Circuit requirements for installation, what are they?

    EDIT 2: My memory served correctly, it's a D Type circuit breaker you need (post 3 in the linked thread).

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    New Zealand
    Age
    47
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    37

    Default

    Hi Midnight Man. Thankyou for that. I did search but couldn't find anything like that. I will chat to the sparky and see about changing it for the D curve breaker. Funny enough we did chat about it at the time but given there wasn't anything specific from the supplier ( i checked) and in the documentation we thought the C typo would suffice. Just goes to show. Will get him to check for any other issues re earth leakage but fingers crossed another $100 will sort the issue.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    43

    Default

    Hi all,
    I've recently moved into a rental house and I'm having a similar problem but it's the 40 amp safety switch that is tripping. I'ts intermittent, happening 2 or 3 times a day when I have a full day in the shop. It has only tripped the 20 amp breaker once and the safety switch went at the same time. Is this most likely a faulty safety switch or will I have to spring for the sparky to fit an upgraded fitting?

    Thanks for any and all advice

    Craig

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    21,958

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CgT View Post
    Hi all,
    I've recently moved into a rental house and I'm having a similar problem but it's the 40 amp safety switch that is tripping. I'ts intermittent, happening 2 or 3 times a day when I have a full day in the shop. It has only tripped the 20 amp breaker once and the safety switch went at the same time. Is this most likely a faulty safety switch or will I have to spring for the sparky to fit an upgraded fitting?
    Intermittent things like this sounds like one of your machines is heating up and shorting - I'd be checking machines. Does it happen on any particular machine?

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    East Bentleigh
    Posts
    135

    Default

    I've got a sawstop and it's not the breaker size I'm my case but the voltage drop. The mains coming in is a bit thin and the workshop is up the other end of the block. The d-curve may help but sometimes lower voltage for startup and the electronics on the saw upset the rcd. I had to go to an industrial sized one 100mA instead of the 30mA.

    On the question of the sawstop that you didn't ask, it saved my pinky last week when using the finger joint 2 blade set. $300 for a new stack and brake but just a scratch on the pinky.



    Cheers Bryan

    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Glen Forrest, Western Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    277

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tung tied View Post

    Cheers Bryan

    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
    Put some clock hands on it and you will have a unique reminder for the workshop

    Rick

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    43

    Default

    BobL it's always the sawstop. I have a 1.75 hp contractors saw. Never had a problem at my last place, would just occasionally trip the power board.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    21,958

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CgT View Post
    BobL it's always the sawstop. I have a 1.75 hp contractors saw. Never had a problem at my last place, would just occasionally trip the power board.
    Thanks. The fact that its only a 1.75HP model and tripping the 40A safety switch means it's unlikely to be an over current issue but more likely an intermittent shorting issue.

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