Thread: Sliding table on SawStop?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fw0282Ymv6o

By the time you put one of those on a SS it would be the same price or dearer than a European slider. $1000 USD is what they are talking.

But you will have a better ripping saw rather than a true panel saw. I've seen the YouTube DVD and the 2 flip-up stops and the rail look good. I'll be adding it to my SS, even though I have capacity to rip 2400mm sheets on my Minimax CU 300 Smart. The SS TS - soon with a x cut sliding table - will be a very useful addition, particularly if you work in solid timber rather than panels.

This is how to rip on a slider, it is in German but that does not matter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqzVglze9Nk

Chris,
Those UTubes Vids are extremely good. Those couple of holders featured, are so simple to make, but, yet some thing I have never put a lot of thought into over the 30 odd years I have been using large panel saws. I am definitely going to make a set in the next few days.
The saw in the demonstration was a Martin, supposedly THE best saw made. Did you notice the nicks in the aluminium sliding table? Its caused when you are ripping at 45°, the blade can get off course enough to cut into the table. So even the best saws can't cater for us not so perfect humans.

Rod, no one thought of it until (I am presuming) the guys in the video. As far as I can tell it is actually a promo for the bits that they are using but it addresses just about every shortcoming that made ripping on a slider a pain in the bum. Now I know why my slider has a nick in the table edge as it had me stumped as to how it had happened.

Chris I think its a universal problem with any sliding table. Cutting MDF or Pyneboard seems to be trouble free but its when you rip timber, that may release its tensions and jam the blade a little the blade can move a long way out of its usual path.
I can't understand or read German but there was a couple of references to 2 German male names (like Fritz and Kurt???) maybe it is the German equivalent to Mac and Myer. By the looks you can buy two strips of plastic capping and the plastic handle to make up your own. But with good old Aussie know-how it won't take long to duplicate a set. The travelling table is such a great device for cutting tapers so with the Fritz and Kurt dover the holding just became dead easy.
I watched another couple of Vids. One had a guy making a protractor for a sliding table. My SCM never came with the factory protractor, being second hand (or 3rd or 4th) and I have never come across one either so now seeing how simple it will be to fabricate one out of MDF, it is on the list as well. When I was working the boss decided to buy a new Panel Saw and so we ended up with an Altendorf. Its Protractor had bearings at the intersections which means that with nothing to wear the accuracy would be kept

Not too much new there. Still hasn't resolved the half of a degree in error when ripping right side of the blade when the sliding table sits .5mm higher than the right side of the blade. That's just the way the sliders are designed - sheet goods more than solid timber. It's not just my Minimax, the Felder / Hammer machines are the same. That's why I always rip on my Sawstop. Except when "jointing" on my slider, left side of the blade out to 2.4m.

That's a very old chestnut....the argument as to why the sliding table pulls to the left while the fixed fence on the right pulls to the right.
When I picked up my SCM it was dangling on the end of a factory crane ready for me to drop it onto the trailer and bring it home. I never had the ability to run it and check whether or not it was running true or square. When I got it home and hooked it up.......it was still accurate. Its a 1983 model and when I set it up and cut 4 sides on a large sheet of MDF across the diagonals it was less that half a millimetre difference. I was a happy chappy.

Originally Posted by jefferson

Not too much new there. Still hasn't resolved the half of a degree in error when ripping right side of the blade when the sliding table sits .5mm higher than the right side of the blade. That's just the way the sliders are designed - sheet goods more than solid timber. It's not just my Minimax, the Felder / Hammer machines are the same. That's why I always rip on my Sawstop. Except when "jointing" on my slider, left side of the blade out to 2.4m.

I am sorry but you lost me and you need to expand and explain. Ripping using the slider or the rip fence????

Chris, you probably already know (I must have confused you) that you cannot "joint" on the right side of the blade on a sliding table. You do it on the slider and take as little as possible with the cut. That gives me guaranteed a straight "planed" edge, much longer than I get off the top of the jointer. Even if I haven't planed and thicknessed the board precisely, I can make do - unlike when I am gluing boards together side by side on the edges. Does that make sense? It's the only way I know how to accurately "joint" long boards 2400 x 200 x 45 redgum which I then stick through the thicknesser. Or do you have a better way?