Thread: Spliter question

Originally Posted by Mr Brush

Not sure where I picked it up, but the splitter thickness should be midway between the actual kerf of the blade (i.e. measured across the teeth) and the thickness of the sawblade plate (measured anywhere BUT across the teeth...). Has always worked for me.

Correct. Doesn't have to be micrometer accurate, but within 0.1mm either side of halfway is a safe target

There was a guy who designed a retrofit riving knife to replace fixed splitters on some brands of saw (called Bolt On Riving Knife....BORK), but his website seems to be dead. Think I looked into this option years ago, but he didn't offer a solution for the JET ProShop saw.

B Hill probably mainly uses his saw to cut rocks, or failing that timber that is very nearly as hard. Welcome to the forum by the way.

There seems to be a few of us who have the same type of saw as yourself, and the same consequent problems. Forget about getting a replacement splitter, as others have said they are a complete pain in the bum. Riving knives cannot be fitted to this type of saw without virtually rebuilding the thing. The reason the BORK is no longer available is because it was a complete PITA to adjust.

See woodPixel's post for the way to go with this type of saw. Works for him, Mr Brush and me.

I don't know where tonzeyd stands when feeding stock to his saw, but it's obviously the wrong place. Fortunately I don't own a fish tank.

Use the insert plate as a template to make some new zero clearance plates for your blades. Mr Brush finds 6mm MDF works well for him, I use offcuts of composite material floating flooring. He uses a magnet, I've drilled and tapped the supports for the plate. Either way works. H'mm, his way sounds more convenient, much quicker swap over and I change the blade on my saw A LOT. Might have to re-think that.

just rang carba -tec and they don't carry any parts for that model, so ordered a riving knife and guard assembly to fit a HAFCO SB-12 and pretty sure it will fit, have read heaps on how much it is a pain to get straight but will be better than nothing until I build something better.

as for the temperature at the moment 6:40 pm it is 46.7 degrees in the BBQ area. and I have been using mostly timber left over from when I redid our woolshed/quarters, I am also wanting to use some of our local timbers here (mulga, purple heart, western rose wood) I also have some ironbark pieces left over from renovations of the two story pub in Tibooburra. Broken Hill is 5 hours away so its a real pain in the a$% when you are a few screws short or miscalculate how much timber you need.

Mate! If you get any of that timber left over and want to reward the posters here (especially me!) Then feel free to offer us some

We are always on the lookout for pieces with an interesting backstory.

Best thing for riving knives is good quality spring steel. Cut down Cane knives work well for thin kerfs... but a ground down brush hook blade is the best for regular blades and comes with the benefit of having the curve already in. Just sayin...