Thread: Splitter vs blade kerf

Honestly, I reckon 0.09" is a bit thick for either; you'd probably get away with it, but I'd be trying to get a splitter in the 2.0-2.1mm (0.080") range.

EDIT: missed a 0 in the imperial measurement

I think that should be fine. The purpose of the splitter is to keep the kerf open and prevent any pinching at the rear of the blade. The saw kerf is a smidgeon wider than the splitter, which means that the splitter will fit the kerf. It will not let the kerf close up.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I should have said riving knife not splitter though both accomplish the same thing.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

but I'd be trying to get a splitter in the 2.0-2.1mm (0.80") range.

That wouldn't be small enough that the wood could pinch 2.3mm teeth? Am looking at a shark guard so 0.09" is the smallest option.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

It will not let the kerf close up.
Derek

I thought it would let it close up as the wood could move across slightly till it hit the splitter/riving knife thus pinching the teeth and kicking?

Originally Posted by access_denied

That wouldn't be small enough that the wood could pinch 2.3mm teeth? Am looking at a shark guard so 0.09" is the smallest option.

It's not the teeth you need to stop the wood from hitting, it's the saw plate itself; if it just catches the teeth on the way up all it will do is cut a little bit more, if it grabs the main body of the saw, that's when it starts throwing things around. All riving knives are made to be in between the kerf and plate thickness.

Just out of curiosity...why such a thin blade anyway?

You want a bit of clearance, a thick riving knife would be like pushing a wedge into the end of your cut. Its not just to stop binding but importantly to stop the whole board skewing sideways into the back of the blade and it doesn’t need to be thick for that.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

All riving knives are made to be in between the kerf and plate thickness.

Okay so I just need to get blades with a smaller plate but bigger kerf than the knife.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

Just out of curiosity...why such a thin blade anyway?

I have two Diablo blades that size I use with my CSMS so was going to use them. I also havn't decided on the Laguna F2 or F3 yet and thought the 1 3/4 HP on the F2 may not be enough for standard kerfs.

Originally Posted by Austin_Turner

Its not just to stop binding but importantly to stop the whole board skewing sideways into the back of the blade and it doesn’t need to be thick for that.

Yeah it's obvious now that I know it's hitting the actual plate that causes the kickback and not just hitting the teeth.

- - - Updated - - -

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

All riving knives are made to be in between the kerf and plate thickness.

Okay so I just need to get blades with a smaller plate but bigger kerf than the knife.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

Just out of curiosity...why such a thin blade anyway?

I have two Diablo blades that size I use with my CSMS so was going to use them. I also havn't decided on the Laguna F2 or F3 yet and thought the 1 3/4 HP on the F2 may not be enough for standard kerfs.

Originally Posted by Austin_Turner

Its not just to stop binding but importantly to stop the whole board skewing sideways into the back of the blade and it doesn’t need to be thick for that.

Yeah it's obvious now that I know it's hitting the actual plate that causes the kickback and not just hitting the teeth.