Thread: Mitre cutting on Table Saw

Are you talking mitre (blade perpendicular to table, work rotated on table to cut at required angle for generally short cuts) or bevel (blade angle adjustable relative to table surface by tilting the table or the arbour for generally long rip cuts)? Or maybe both to produce compund angles?

Mitre is easy to incorporate, machine one or two mitre guage slots in the table, line with a track if need be, buy, make, or adapt an existing mitre guage and you are in business.

Bevel is a lot harder, as you have to tilt the arbour and drive relative to the table top using trunions, arrange rise and fall for depth of cut control, and fab the control linkages and locks.

As for how much value they would be, it depends on the tasks you expect the saw to undertake. I have a relatively simple small combo unit with decent mitre slots and a useable mitre guage, and a tilting table arrangement. The disadvantage of the tilting table is small size limiting overall ripping capacity to about 150w before the fence detatches. Putting a big table or fence system on to overcome this is a pain beause of clearance issues with the tilting mechanism, base etc.

Not a definitive answer, but something to get you thinking about what you want it to do.

Dean

You can view my home made table saw at this site MickyG's Pics - Home under
machinery.

This saw has done about eight years work now and has been a faultless performer. It is either 10 inch or 12 inch whichever blade is in use. Since building the saw I have purchased a sliding mitre saw, prior to this I did all my 45 degree work and mitres on the tablesaw and they were generally better than what could be done on the sherwood mitre saw. I now have a Hitachi C12lsh which is quite a pleasure to use accuracy wise.

Regards Mike

Originally Posted by malb

Are you talking mitre (blade perpendicular to table, work rotated on table to cut at required angle for generally short cuts) or bevel (blade angle adjustable relative to table surface by tilting the table or the arbour for generally long rip cuts)? Or maybe both to produce compund angles?

Mitre is easy to incorporate, machine one or two mitre guage slots in the table, line with a track if need be, buy, make, or adapt an existing mitre guage and you are in business.

Bevel is a lot harder, as you have to tilt the arbour and drive relative to the table top using trunions, arrange rise and fall for depth of cut control, and fab the control linkages and locks.

As for how much value they would be, it depends on the tasks you expect the saw to undertake. I have a relatively simple small combo unit with decent mitre slots and a useable mitre guage, and a tilting table arrangement. The disadvantage of the tilting table is small size limiting overall ripping capacity to about 150w before the fence detatches. Putting a big table or fence system on to overcome this is a pain beause of clearance issues with the tilting mechanism, base etc.

Not a definitive answer, but something to get you thinking about what you want it to do.

Sorry about the confusion. I should have been more specific. It is bevels I am talking about with all the complications you mentioned above. I have roughed out a design using steel trunions cut out on my lathe but it is far more complex to build. I could probably add the capability later if needed.

I could also go the way of triton and make a bevel attachment to slide on top of the table.

Dean

Originally Posted by MICKYG

Dean

You can view my home made table saw at this site MickyG's Pics - Home under
machinery.

This saw has done about eight years work now and has been a faultless performer. It is either 10 inch or 12 inch whichever blade is in use. Since building the saw I have purchased a sliding mitre saw, prior to this I did all my 45 degree work and mitres on the tablesaw and they were generally better than what could be done on the sherwood mitre saw. I now have a Hitachi C12lsh which is quite a pleasure to use accuracy wise.

Regards Mike

I reckon I have seen your pics before. Overall the saw looks pretty good but I cannot work out the mechanism from these pictures. I need to see the up/down and bevel pivots to picture the operation of the saw.

I would like a SCMS but the only ones that are any good are way outside my price range. Every so often when I am in town I go to a store selling these and find a steel ruler and lay it across the table side to side standing up against the fence and look at the difference in height of the different sections of the table. These saws are sold for over $1000.00 sometimes and they are not machined to equal levels. Makita are now making them with the three piece base design and so are as bad as all the other brands.

I would be interested in more pics of your saw if possible.

Dean

Dean

As soon as I get a chance I will get you some more pics.

Regards Mike