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14th March 2008, 06:33 PM #1Member
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suggestions for removing saw blade
Hi,
I have an Elektra Bekham table saw and last weekend tried to remove the sawbalde for the first time.
Problem is the nut holding it on won't budge. The manual says it has a left hand thread which I assume means it needs to go clockwise to come off. Is that right?
Any suggestions on how to loosen this thing?
The blade has about a 1.5 mm wobble when its spinning, but thats the next problem to solve, once I get it off the machine to see if its warped. I just built a sled for the table, which was a bit tricky and the tabletop has no track runners. Now the sled has a slot 4.5 mm wide for a 3mm kerf blade.
All and any help gratefully appreciated.
Cheers,
Dan
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14th March 2008 06:33 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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14th March 2008, 07:20 PM #2
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14th March 2008, 07:25 PM #3
As you and Groggy said clockwise, hold it with the rag like groggy said, but if it won't release give it a gentle or not so gentle tap with a hammer. If you cant hold it place a G or F clamp on the blade to stop it turning and try again.
www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au
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14th March 2008, 09:48 PM #4
Never tried a rag, have to give that a shot.
I've always used a piece of wood jammed into the teeth to keep the blade still.
Rag sounds like a better idea.
Tex
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14th March 2008, 10:04 PM #5
There should be a small hole in the shaft that takes a thin screw driver from the top. The rule with undoing nuts on sawblades is to follow the direction of the blade. Its easier to think of it as turning the nut faster than the blade as the only way to undo it - only possible when it's stationary.
A classic example of the left-handed thread is the screw holding in a keyless chuck. In this case it's true when turning left to loosen a bit or take out a screw. Without the screw, the right thread from the shaft into the chuck will undo when in reverse.
As for your problem, I try to avoid the classic 'sharp rap' approach. If the shaft doesn't have a hole for stalling the blade, use the methods above, but try putting a piece of pipe over the shaft of the spanner to increase leverage.
Good luck!
DamienIs it wrong to be in love with a sawbench?
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14th March 2008, 11:07 PM #6Deceased
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As Damien said but in colors....well, black & white....
Attachment 69209
niki
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7th April 2008, 05:00 PM #7Member
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- Mar 2004
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- Montville
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- 83
It came off ok.
Thanks gents for all your replies.
I've been away and only had a go at it on the weekend.
I ended up jamming the blade with a piece if 18mm ply. I couldnt get a rag to jam it tight enough and the space is too confined to put anything to lock the shaft. It took a few solid whacks with a hammer and all was good.
Like I said earlier there is a 1.5mm wobble when the blade is turning, but now having the blade off I cant really see that its warped. Should a warp of that size be easily seen by eye?
I ran the machine without the blade and it appears the place where the blade is bolted on is running without a wobble.
Will I only be able to tell by getting a new blade and seeing whether it wobbles too?
Now, finding a quality blade in Jakarta that fits is the next challenge. There is the ubiquitous Krisbow, but everything of theirs I have had is crap and lasts about 5 minutes.
Cheers,
Dan
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29th May 2008, 09:57 PM #8Member
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- Mar 2004
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- Montville
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blade still has a wobble
I have replaced the blade with another Elektra Bekum blade, but the wobble is still there.
Can anyone please give me an idea of what to check next? It a bit hard to do an accurate cut and the slot for the blade in my crosscut sled is 5mm wide.
Just for clarity, the motor runs smoothly, there is no discernable vibration of the table or blade. Its just that if you turn the blade by hand the teeth of blade move closer to the fence by about 1.5mm, then out again as you complete the full rotation.
Any help would be gratefully appreciated.
Cheers,
Dan
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30th May 2008, 10:08 PM #9
sounds like your sled guides are out of alignment
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2nd June 2008, 02:32 AM #10Member
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Thanks Canetoad, but the sled's fine.
It is the blade wobbling that chews out a larger kerf than it should. And i have no idea what to do next to fix it.
Anyone :got any ideas?
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2nd June 2008, 07:07 AM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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- Jan 2004
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- 686
Bent arbor??
Bent washer??
Crud underneath the washer, making a wobble saw??
Cheers,
eddie
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2nd June 2008, 10:31 AM #12
Check the flange that the blade sits against. Is it removable, is it sitting evenly against the shoulder on the shaft? Check for rust or saw dust buildup in any area where the blade contacts the flange or shaft.
If everything seems fine the next stage is putting a dial indicator on the shaft itself. Maybe borrow one from a local engineering works, with a magnetic base. It sounds like you might have some runout, or bent shaft...here's hoping its not.
Good luck!Andy Mac
Change is inevitable, growth is optional.
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2nd June 2008, 04:13 PM #13Senior Member
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2nd June 2008, 04:53 PM #14Member
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Thanks Gents, I will check it out.
It seems our mate Pythagorus is saying it will be a very small irregularity I am looking for.
Cheers,
Dan
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