Thread: Best table saw 1.5k

If you're looking at a big saw like that, make sure you have suitable power in the shed for it - they draw a lot of current for a few seconds while they are starting up, so it's not something you want to run on the end of a long 10 amp extension lead!

Oh cripes....I didn't even think of that. I would have to run it off a standard power supply so this would be an issue.

Maybe I am better off starting small with a really good portable like a DeWalt? http://www.dewalt.com.au/powertools/...catno/DWE7491/

I'm only in a small space, too. I'm running everything off extension cords connected to the mains. Seems a shame to spend a grand on a portable when a bit more gets me an entry level pro saw.

Any that run off 240 that people recommend? Maybe the Carba-Tec 10" Contractors Saw? Looks pretty good for under a grand...

http://www.carbatec.com.au/carba-tec...ors-saw_c19216

Out of these two, what would be the better option?

Should also probably mention the application. This will be mainly used in furniture making...tables, cabinets, and the like...It won't taking on anything too heavy duty, but it does need to be accurate.

Thanks for the response, Splinter. I made a comment before this one but it's awaiting moderation for some reason...maybe coz I added links to it

Hi Mike and welcome to the forum. I have the Woodman SB1012C and I'm very happy with it.

I got it from Major woodworking in Sydney, you may be able to source it in Melbourne? There are several happy owners of this saw on here, and I've owned mine for a few years and it has done everything I've needed.

If you do a search for SB1012 you might find some threads about it.

Peter

Also don't be afraid to look secondhand, especially if you happen to be wired for three-phase.

Nice looking saw, Sloth. Will def look into that one. Don't have 3 phase power, unfortunately. But second hand is an option, too. Will keep an eye out. Fun hobby I'm finding this, but damn expensive!

I'm with 3 Toed Sloth, the Woodman is a good saw for the price. I have one of these which is just an open style version of the one in the other link. I got mine from Get Woodworking in Williamstown.
Do you realise the H&F saw runs off a 20 amp supply?

Originally Posted by zoovegroover

Fun hobby I'm finding this, but damn expensive!

And its only just begun Mike. Welcome to the forum.

Ross

Thanks, all. Realise now the bigger ones won't work with mains electricity so the Woodmans are looking very tempting. Also this H+F one: http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/W486

If it came down to Carba-Tec v H+F, where do most people lean?

I have a Jet 10" Proshop and I now it is slightly more than your budget of $1.5K but it is worth a look. I am very happy with mine.

I have a Jet and I believe C-Tec now sells them.

The Hafco ( Hare and Forbes ) are fine and their service is good.

Just be aware of the fence alignment on whatever saw you buy. Check for parallel with the blade. This can
be done by raising the blade right up and measuring both "ënds" of the blade from the fence or, better still,
use a piece of straight 100mm X 20mm piece of wood between blade and fence.

We have a Hafco at our club - the bigger one - a good saw but the fence is a problem. Maybe that is because
over the years every man and his dog has used the saw and not taken enough care. My jet is fine, has been
from day one, but I am the only one who uses the saw.

Originally Posted by zoovegroover

Hey all, new to the forums, and woodworking in general, but I've really taken to it, and have decided to take the plunge on a table saw. One thing I've learnt in my limited time is the old adage of: buy cheap, buy twice.

I'm after a good, safe table saw (currently using a Makita bolted upside down on some MDF which was a fun project but worried about the safety aspects) that cuts straight, and accurate. At first I was considering a DeWalt portable, but now figure I should go with something upgradable, and wanted to get the opinion of those who have more experience.

Leaning towards Carba-Tec or Hafco at this point, possible the ST-12D which is slightly over my budget, but looks good at the price: http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/W454

As well as info on what you guys like, I'd also be interested in knowing what I should be looking for when evaluating. As someone new to the world of woodworking, I'm keen as mustard but not all that clued up and I don't want to get taken for a mug.

Thanks, guys
Mike

Mike,

You'll find that many of the saws in the range that you're looking at will require a 15 amp single phase outlet, which is usually on a 20 amp circuit breaker. A sparky will be able to clarify the electrical rules regarding sizes of circuit breakers, cable sizes and and allowable numbers of 15 amp outlets.

My Table Saw, Band Saw, and Jointer/Thicknesser all require 15 amp power points. With 3 horsepower motors, they draw a lot of power on start-up, but the consumption drops off as they get up to speed. When I bought the new machines a few years ago, I got the local sparky to run a new circuit to the workshop and put three 15 amp outlets on it. The distance from the Main Power Board to the outlets at the end of the run is about 20 meters - and the sparky charged me just under $500 for the lot (new circuit breaker, 20 amp (I think ?) cable run, some conduit in a few places, and three x 15 amp outlets. So, don't rule out buying a machine that requires a 15 amp outlet, because you don't have those power outlets in your workshop. The 15 amp power points are a one off investment that will pay off in the long run.

There are some smaller machines out there that can be run off a 10 amp power point, but from the description of the work that you plan to do with this machine, I think a machine that runs off a 10 amp outlet may struggle.

Last thing - to answer your question regarding what to look for ...... the main thing that I would say is to inspect the machines in person yourself. Don't buy sight unseen off an internet advert. You can't judge build quality by looking at some photographs on the internet. When you're looking at a table saw, look at things like:

• Look at the fence. When the fence is locked, is it rigid ? When the fence lock is released, does the fence slide smoothly and freely sideways. All decent table saw fences have adjustments to square the fence with the saw blade - these adjustments are usually grub screws either located at the operator end of the saw, and either side of the locking handle. The grub screws press on the fence rails to adjust the angle of the fence. Unfortunately, some of the Chinese and Tiawanese manufactured saws rely on shimming the fence rail (or the fence) to get the fence itself square to the saw blade. To make life much easier for yourself, look for a fence that has good adjustments for the fence alignment, to get the fence parallel to the saw blade, and the fence faces perpendicular to the table top.
• Zero Clearance Insert. Most modern table saws have a zero clearance insert that fits accurately around the saw blade to minimise the gap around the blade. Removing the zero clearance insert provides you with access through the table top to change a saw blade. Aim to get a saw with a zero clearance insert as your quality of cut will improve.
• Saw Blade. If a saw is supplied with a blade, it is often a garbage blade. Plan to buy a good brand blade (Freud, CMT, etc). I've found that a 10" saw is adequate for the type of work you're describing, which is roughly the saw work as I do. Related to saw blades - a Dado Stack is probably something that you'll want to use for some types of furniture work. Make sure that the shaft that supports and drives the saw blade is designed to accept a standard 3/4 inch Dado Stack - not all table saws do.
• Table Top. Look for cast iron. Most tables will have a central cast iron area, and then will have bolt-on "table wings" that extend the working surface. Some manufacturers use pressed steel for the table wings. Aim for cast iron table and cast iron table wings. Look at the joint between the centre table, and the table wings. That joint needs to be smooth. If it's not smooth then you'll have to shim the table wings to get the tables to sit level and smooth. It may also be that the display machine has only been roughly assembled and has not been properly adjusted, so that may leave the table wings out of plumb. As an example, my first Carbatec table saw needed very fiddly shimming to get the table wings level and co-planar with the central table - and those adjustments needed to be repeated whenever the machines was moved. On the other hand my Laguna Fusion table wings simply bolted on and required no shimming at all.
• Dust collection. Have a look at how the external dust collection post is ducted inside the machine to capture the saw dust inside the machine. Some brands simply rely on the external dust collection port being close to the floor of the saw cabinet, and having a sloping floor so that dust theoretically drifts via gravity to the lowest point of the floor next to the dust port. Other saw brands have internal ducts from the external dust collection port up to and around the saw blade to improve dust collection. Either way, the style of machine you're looking at will need at least generic 2 HP Dust Extractor so you don't choke on the dust it will create.
• Power Switch and Safety Stop Switch. The saw should be fitted with a NVR Switch (No Voltage Release). The NVR switch automatically goes tothe off position when you loose power, so that when the power comes back on, the saw can't start upon it's own. I believe, but haven't been able to confirm it, that an NVR Switch is a legal requirement on new saws sold in Aus. Ideally, I'd look for an NVR Switch that has a large OFF Paddle that you can bump with your knee to turn the machine off in a hurry. I've seen a few saws in showrooms that don't have the large OFF paddle - instead the On and Off buttons are both the same roughly 25mm diameter buttons.

Check web sites like this forum to get some good and bad references for the machine you're looking at. If you see lots of bad posts by one or may be two people about a specific brand/model of machine, that may be just "sour grapes" or something similar on the part of one person. Those sort of reports are not necessarily reliable reports. But, if you see multiple posts, from lots of different people, all discussing the same problem/s with a machine - take note.

I think that's all I can say.

Regards,

Roy

Thanks so much for all advice so far! Really good to have people in the know weighing in. Really helpful for a beginner like me. Lots to think about here, really appreciate it.