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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfdabbler View Post
    I'm looking to get a table saw. Now, I have an option to get an old table saw and do it up, or I can buy a new table saw. I'd like to hear some thoughts on my decision.

    Option 1:
    A friend has an old cast-iron table saw, rusting outside his shed.
    It has a 3/4 hp motor, but the motor cable is disintegrating, and the wires are exposed. I'd want to replace the wiring and switch for sure.
    It has a tilting table rather than a tilting blade, which is not ideal, but I don't know how often I'd tilt the blade anyway.
    It doesn't have a riving knife, but I could make one to fit, and the mounts rise/fall with the blade, so it would work well.
    It fits a 12" blade, and comes with a jointer on the side. The jointer shares the same motor at the moment - you just move the motor across and put the belt onto the jointer pulley.
    how easily can the saw and jointer be connected to a DC? This should be a primary consideration for you and your man cave.

    But overall, IMO the saw is way too under powered, and needs far too much work to bother with.

    Quote Originally Posted by surfdabbler View Post
    Option 2: Buy a new Laguna 10" table saw for $2200.

    Now, obviously option 2 is the better saw, but for a part-time woodworking hobby, I'm having a hard time justifying the cost.
    this I don't get. I guess you are a part-time WW mostly because you have a full time job and a family that you want to spend time with.
    Even though I'm now retired, I have similar issues. For me an accurate table saw represents a speed advantage over ripping by hand. A long hand rip will typically require cleaning up the cut line with a hand plane. Or using a scrub plane to remove a "strip" which is then smoothed with a jointer plane. For me, a big part of wood working is the shear pleasure of using my hands and head to make stuff.

    I know that the Laguna has a good reputation, but if I was budgeting on $2200 AUD, I'd be seriously looking at a SawStop job site saw.


    and for a lower cost option (less than about $800), you really should have a long hard look at a DeWalt or Bosch job site saw. These come with riving knives and blade guards, and for the cost of a sheet of 18mm ply and some screws, you can build a very good stand for one that incorporates decent dust collection.

    Of course, you'll also need a decent miter gauge and cross-cut sled, but so will a $2200 Laguna.

    There has been previous discussions about job-site saws.

    Quote Originally Posted by surfdabbler View Post
    Option 3: I guess an option 3 is a table-top model from Bunnings. These seem to come with all the features, but with a folded steel or aluminium table top and direct drive onto the blade. Ryobi do one for about $500. I've not used one of these before, and I'm a little tentative about this option. I do like a saw that does a nice accurate job, and I'm not sure that these will ultimately live up to what I want.

    So, any advice for me?
    Bunning's $489 Ryobi table saw retails here for $269 CAD. It's a chalk or cheese comparison with the Bosch and DeWalt offerings.
    IMO, the DeWalt is a much better saw, especially in respect to the fence, albeit at $840 from Bunnings, very overpriced compared to the North american market.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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  3. #17
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    If you're considering buying a Laguna for $2200, spend a little more and buy a SawStop, the safest saw and best built saw on the market. They have amazing build quality, the brake is a bonus. There's more accessories coming from SawStop soon, their website has them listed already...

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just George View Post
    If you're considering buying a Laguna for $2200, spend a little more and buy a SawStop, the safest saw and best built saw on the market. They have amazing build quality, the brake is a bonus. There's more accessories coming from SawStop soon, their website has them listed already...

    If you then decide that woodwork is not for you, see it, they are sought after, you'd not have a problem selling if it came to that.

  5. #19
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    Apr 2012
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    Have you given any thought to a saw with a sliding table, like the Woodman Pro 10"? Also in this category is the Woodfast TS250 that H&F sell, but it's more like a mini panel saw rather than a table saw with a slider.

    The Woodman has a pretty dinky little slider but it gives you a crosscut fence with a couple of flip stops, it's still a left tilt saw like the Laguna Fusion with two mitre slots so that functionality is the same, the fence is a Euro style which I prefer as you can set it to extend no further than the arbor which is safer, and it's a 3hp motor instead of 2. Footprint in your shop would be quite similar. And it'll save you $700.

  6. #20
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    I would love to hear opinions on those Woodman 10" sliders, they look like great value for $1495 considering the features and 3HP motor. Don't think they're available in Perth but I'm going to have to ship a Harvey from over east anyway.

    I'm just not sure if I'll kick myself for going with a sliding saw over a conventional table saw, not really a purchase I want to make twice. And I haven't heard a bad word said about the Harvey saws.

  7. #21
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    May 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by bueller View Post
    I would love to hear opinions on those Woodman 10" sliders, they look like great value for $1495 considering the features and 3HP motor. Don't think they're available in Perth but I'm going to have to ship a Harvey from over east anyway.

    I'm just not sure if I'll kick myself for going with a sliding saw over a conventional table saw, not really a purchase I want to make twice. And I haven't heard a bad word said about the Harvey saws.
    Once you used the slider saw you will never want to go back to conventional table saw.

    Some (or most) people use conventional table saw because they couldnt fit a slider.

    If you decide to go ahead with the Woodman Pro 10, you might want to purchase a bigger slider.
    SCM L'Invincibile si X, SCM L'Invincibile S7, SCM TI 145EP, SCM Sandya Win 630, Masterwood OMB1V, Meber 600, Delta RJ42, Nederman S750, Chicago Pneumatics CPRS10500, Ceccato CDX12



  8. #22
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    Do you think a sliding addition like the one below would work as well?


  9. #23
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    Well all machinery looks good and functions as you would expect when its sparkling new, you will need to look at the sliding track design and overall adjustability and things, see how easy or possible at all to true it if you need to, some machines does not have this built in mind because it is designed for hobbyist where usage varies from an hour a month to an hour a day.

    The cross cut fence is a bit short though, but I need longer fence because what I make, not everyone makes large furniture like I do on daily basis.
    SCM L'Invincibile si X, SCM L'Invincibile S7, SCM TI 145EP, SCM Sandya Win 630, Masterwood OMB1V, Meber 600, Delta RJ42, Nederman S750, Chicago Pneumatics CPRS10500, Ceccato CDX12



  10. #24
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    I'm a huge SawStop proponent, and I think that it may be worth considering a few hundred more if safety is a big concern of yours, but it sounds like that's a bit out of your expected price range, so I'd probably go with the older model and just make modifications. No reason you can't have it safely making accurate cuts again with some fettling.

    Don't get the Bunnings tabletop model. You'll just be back to square one in a year or so.

    Good luck,

  11. #25
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    Yes, I had looked at the Woodman Pro 10". I don't really have a lot of space for a sliding table, although I could maybe rearrange things to fit one if I had to. For sure if you have heaps of room, a big sliding table is nice to have, but I'm not really sure about the small sliding tracks like the Woodman. Are they really any better than a sled?

    I'm also having a lot of concern about the back-locking fences. They really don't pull themselves straight at all. Maybe there's a knack to how you lock it off, but all the shop models I've tried can easily be locked into position with the back end of the fence about 5mm either side of straight.
    Good things come to those who wait, and sail right past those who don't reach out and grab them.

  12. #26
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    Anyone know anything about Dyco Durasaw? It's an NZ brand, but beyond that, I can't find anything. I found a second hand one near me for $1000, but that seems a little high for that saw.
    Good things come to those who wait, and sail right past those who don't reach out and grab them.

  13. #27
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    Apr 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfdabbler View Post
    Yes, I had looked at the Woodman Pro 10". I don't really have a lot of space for a sliding table, although I could maybe rearrange things to fit one if I had to. For sure if you have heaps of room, a big sliding table is nice to have, but I'm not really sure about the small sliding tracks like the Woodman. Are they really any better than a sled?

    I'm also having a lot of concern about the back-locking fences. They really don't pull themselves straight at all. Maybe there's a knack to how you lock it off, but all the shop models I've tried can easily be locked into position with the back end of the fence about 5mm either side of straight.
    Crosscut sleds try to replicate what a slider gives you. But you do lose depth of cut, which you need to consider. If the maximum cut on a 10" saw is 80mm and you lose 16mm with the sled, you're down to a 64mm cut. At 45 bevel, you still lose that 16mm on a reduced cutting height, say 57mm so you're down to 41mm. Most of the time it may not matter, but there will be times it will. The Woodman slider isn't really meant for cutting panels, but for the little it costs it's well worth having. If you were to make a sled with a good fence, flip stops and hold downs you're not going to save much.

    as for the rip fences, I've only ever had t square fences on table saws, can't really comment on getting the others square. But aside from positioning, the euro style fence as used on the Woodman is useful in that they have a high and low side which is required under European regulations. The low side is for narrow rip cuts and lets you use a push stick while the saw guard can stay in place. Biesemeyer style needs a clamp on auxiliary fence to achieve the same thing.

    Re the Dyco, they made decent, solid tools. But $1000 is what I would describe as highly aspirational pricing.

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