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  1. #1
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    Default New or old table saw?

    I'm looking to get a table saw. Now, I have an option to get an old table saw and do it up, or I can buy a new table saw. I'd like to hear some thoughts on my decision.

    Option 1: A friend has an old cast-iron table saw, rusting outside his shed. I've used it in the past, when it was inside and not so rusty, and it works. It has a 3/4 hp motor, but the motor cable is disintegrating, and the wires are exposed. I'd want to replace the wiring and switch for sure. It has a tilting table rather than a tilting blade, which is not ideal, but I don't know how often I'd tilt the blade anyway. It doesn't have a riving knife, but I could make one to fit, and the mounts rise/fall with the blade, so it would work well. It fits a 12" blade, and comes with a jointer on the side. The jointer shares the same motor at the moment - you just move the motor across and put the belt onto the jointer pulley.

    Option 2: Buy a new Laguna 10" table saw for $2200.

    Now, obviously option 2 is the better saw, but for a part-time woodworking hobby, I'm having a hard time justifying the cost. I spent a week having decided on this option, but it comes back to the cost. Part of woodworking is saving money by making things myself, but if I have expensive tools that I don't use much, that's not great.

    Option 1 was the first choice, but it will take a lot of work. Getting it up to a good level of safety is my first major concern, particularly the electrics, and I also do want a good riving knife system. I don't mind restoring old tools, and have done a few before, so I have a good idea of what's involved. I'm happy to pull things completely apart, put in the hours to clean off the rust, regrease the important parts, straighten everything up to run smoothly, etc. I will have to update the switch to something safer, and redo the motor wiring. Upgrading the motor from 3/4 hp is also a distinct possibility. However, I don't want to put in all the work for something that ultimately won't reward my efforts. If it ends up back outside my friends shed, returning to rust, I'll be sad. On the plus side, it does come with a jointer.

    When I found out that the electrics are deteriorating, I started looking at new saws. There are some cheaper options than the Laguna, but I couldn't find anything with a decent riving knife setup (tilt AND rise with the blade), and if it just has a splitter as some saws do, I can't see myself taking it on/off as required, and it will just get left off, which is no good.

    Option 3: I guess an option 3 is a table-top model from Bunnings. These seem to come with all the features, but with a folded steel or aluminium table top and direct drive onto the blade. Ryobi do one for about $500. I've not used one of these before, and I'm a little tentative about this option. I do like a saw that does a nice accurate job, and I'm not sure that these will ultimately live up to what I want.

    So, any advice for me?
    Good things come to those who wait, and sail right past those who don't reach out and grab them.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Perth WA Australia
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    Default

    Hi,

    Do you have room to set up your table saw permantly? If so I'd go with either option 1 or 2, the smaller saws have their own inherit issues with being light weight, eg can tip over, flexible fences, not built to withstand abuse etc

    Depending on what you're planning on building a table saw is one of those items that you will probably use the most so it makes sense to buy one that suits your needs, plus having a wider surface area to work on is actually really handy.

    If the price is a steal i'd prob opt for option 1, repair it and hock it off once i found something suitable on gumtree or similar.

    I know this may throw a spanner in the works but have you considered the Triton Workcentre? They are excellent bit of kit for someone who wants all the essentials (router table, table saw, handheld circular saw) in a very compact package.

  4. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tonzeyd View Post
    Do you have room to set up your table saw permantly? If so I'd go with either option 1 or 2, the smaller saws have their own inherit issues with being light weight, eg can tip over, flexible fences, not built to withstand abuse etc
    Good point. I do have the room and I would certainly set up the saw as a floor standing setup, although the laguna has wheels, which I really like. I hadn't thought of the light weight being a problem.

    I'm not keen on the triton workcentres. They are just a bit too flimsy/dodgy for me, and the lack of riving knife is another problem. I had a setup years ago with a handheld circular saw that I'd mounted under a benchtop. It worked, but was not very solid or accurate, and used to regularly throw the wood across the garage. After a few months I made the decision that it was just far too dangerous, and I dismantled it. I also hated the mucking around with raising/lowering the blade by reaching under the table. The Triton's would certainly be a big step up from that, as they have a real fence system, and better holding for the saw, but the handheld saw setup is still flimsier that what I'm looking for, and more mucking around.

    Quote Originally Posted by tonzeyd View Post
    If the price is a steal i'd prob opt for option 1, repair it and hock it off once i found something suitable on gumtree or similar.
    Yes, the price is a steal, but I have to pay for the new parts.
    Good things come to those who wait, and sail right past those who don't reach out and grab them.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Default

    3/4 HP or 3HP which is it?

    2HP is minimum for a 10" blade and 3HP for a 12"

    some photos would help members provide more targeted advice,

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    3/4 HP or 3HP which is it?
    Sorry, I've fixed the typo. It is 3/4 HP. It may be currently running a smaller blade, I'm not sure, but It's definitely underpowered as it is. You have to feed slowly, or it bogs down. I'd probably run it on a 10" blade.

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Some photos would help members provide more targeted advice.
    Here's a similar one I found on the net. It's a Tanner brand. This one's in better condition as it's not covered in rust, and looks like it has a home-made blade guard and different sub-frame, but apart from that, this is the saw. 'My' one has the original cast=iron blade guard, and lots of rust, and the same tap-handle fence. You can see the back of the jointer planer on the left side.

    581325102.jpg

    I've been looking into pricing, and it will probably cost $300-$400 to upgrade the motor and replace the switch.
    Good things come to those who wait, and sail right past those who don't reach out and grab them.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    Perth WA Australia
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    Default

    Mobility isn't really an issue as a mobile base can be easily obtained for any table saw. Although i find unless you have a smooth surface ie solid concrete floor moving machinery around can be a pain even with mobile bases as often time the bases don't have much ground clearance.

    Bob also raises a good point, i'm not too familar with older machinery but i was thinking that 3/4hp with a 12" saw capacity is bit odd.

    In regards to the Triton, i had one for about 3 years when i started, and found it performed extremely well considering what it was, it just took longer to set up than a dedicated table saw, which is obviously a case of you get what you pay for scenario. Mine had a splitter and overhead dust guard which i have to say was't that flash so rarely got used.

    Plus from what you're saying in your original post about saving money. I've found quite often times when making stuff you don't actually end up saving money, but the end result is you get something custom built or the satisfaction of making something yourself. Its only when you repeatedly use the same tool that ends up saving you money in the long run, plus the ability to use offcuts/leftovers from previous projects which helps you save.

  8. #7
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    If it was me I'd be scoping out the second hand market for other table saws. An older Jet would be much cheaper than the Laguna but offer all the same features and could probably be had for a grand or less.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bueller View Post
    If it was me I'd be scoping out the second hand market for other table saws. An older Jet would be much cheaper than the Laguna but offer all the same features and could probably be had for a grand or less.
    Yep, that would be nice. I've been scoping. If you have one for sale, let me know.
    Good things come to those who wait, and sail right past those who don't reach out and grab them.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfdabbler View Post
    Yep, that would be nice. I've been scoping. If you have one for sale, let me know.
    You might have done it already but I'd sign up for a Gumtree account and then set up some saved searches. You can set them up so you get an email as soon as a matching item is listed, this made my life a lot easier as most good machinery is sold the same day it's listed. Do searches for table, panel and cabinet saws too because they're always listed under different names.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bueller View Post
    You might have done it already
    Yep. Nothings come up in a while, but I might try some variations as you suggested. Thx.
    Good things come to those who wait, and sail right past those who don't reach out and grab them.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfdabbler View Post
    Sorry, I've fixed the typo. It is 3/4 HP. It may be currently running a smaller blade, I'm not sure, but It's definitely underpowered as it is. You have to feed slowly, or it bogs down. I'd probably run it on a 10" blade.
    A 3/4HP is not really going to cut it with a 10" blade, especially in hardwoods.
    For years I had a small TS called an Ezecut? and it had a 1.5HP and an 8" blade and it struggled at full depth of cut
    The 2HP on the 10" blade at the mens shed is OK with a new blade, but you really do 3HP for a 12" blades.

    I've been looking into pricing, and it will probably cost $300-$400 to upgrade the motor and replace the switch.
    I'm not sure I'd be sinking that sort of money on a new motor for that sort of saw.
    A used motor would be more apropo, a used 3HP motor should be able to be picked up for under $100.

    Before you spend a lot of time on it, have you run a straight edge across the top? - across the front, back, sides middle and diagonal would be the go.

  13. #12
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    Default

    Here's a similar one I found on the net. It's a Tanner brand. This one's in better condition as it's not covered in rust, and looks like it has a home-made blade guard and different sub-frame, but apart from that, this is the saw. 'My' one has the original cast=iron blade guard, and lots of rust, and the same tap-handle fence.

    From what I recall the Tanner brand came out of New Zealand ,you could try a NZ search for any info?
    Johnno

    Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.

  14. #13
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    3/4hp?? Just the scribe blade on our panel saw at work has 1hp...

    There's nothing wrong with buying used machinery, but, if it's rusting outside, you'll likely have to pull the entire thing apart, clean it, put it back together and re-align everything. Way too much effort. Keep looking until you find something that's in usable condition.

  15. #14
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    It is quite surprising what you can find on Ebay, gumtree, etc, if you are happy to spend the time looking.

    Personally, I wouldn't touch the first one you mention. Either Buy the Laguna, or similar, or, hunt down a commercial slider for the couple of grand. They are out there if you look. Set yourself up for a win rather than buying a whole heap of trouble and expense.
    There ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!

    Tom Waits

  16. #15
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    Just mod the old one.


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