Thread: First table saw

I've had a play on a couple of Hafco machines and honestly I'm not very impressed by the overall fit/feel/finish on the machines. Everything just feels really cheap. For the money the Harvey machine is definitely best bang for your buck.

Plus the Hafco machine being 3hp for the single phase unit I suspect the 12" capacity might leave something to be desired.

Also a table is is as accurate as your work habits. If you don't spend the time tuning it/checking it regularly you can't expect good cuts from any saw. Also your technique plays a huge role also.

On the rare occasions that I cut to full depth with a 12" blade on my 2hp saw I find it ok for cross cutting, but ripping, even in softwood can be a bit dodgy; hardwood is a no no.

I'm inclined to agree that the Taiwanese made saws are generally a better quality product, they have been doing it for 40 years now and the entry of the Chinese to the market has forced them to differentiate by providing an increasingly higher quality product. IMO the Taiwanese are rapidly moving to where the Japanese were in the early 70's, and still at a pretty reasonable price.

Originally Posted by tonzeyd

Also a table is is as accurate as your work habits. If you don't spend the time tuning it/checking it regularly you can't expect good cuts from any saw.

I can see this is something I am going to have to learn to accept and get in the habit with all the machines.



Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

It sounds like the extre depth of the 300mm blade is not often used and there's another vote for the Harvey.
What is the fence like on the Harvey?
I'll need to see if I can get to see one in Brisbane.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by DaveVman

It sounds like the extre depth of the 300mm blade is not often used and there's another vote for the Harvey.
What is the fence like on the Harvey?
I'll need to see if I can get to see one in Brisbane.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Hey mate,

The fence is good. It is very solid, straight, easily adjustable for square, slides smooth and easy, and locks down very firmly. The only quirk is I find that the locking lever often needs to be pushed down a bit then slightly backed off before pushind down to lock - it sounds complicated but it's done in one action and I don't even notice any more. Probably not worth mentioning tbh. Other than micro adjust features that an aftermarket fence like an incra provide I can't see what more a person could need or want in a fence.

Cheers, Dom

Here's an older one in your area Hafco 30mm Table Saw

Originally Posted by Treecycle

Here's an older one in your area Hafco 30mm Table Saw

hehe 30mm table saw

Originally Posted by DaveVman

I'll need to see if I can get to see one in Brisbane.

Have a look at the Laguna Platinum at Gregory Machinery. It is the same saw albeit at a dearer price.

Inrush starting current seems to be close to 2X operating current.
Interesting to watch that happen in my inverter display when I have to switch to solar in a power failure.
Most of them can take a short surge of at least 2X rating.

Attenuation comes with distance and for me, it's really obvious with inadequate wire size over even 20m.
I made up a 20m cord that was 12/2 plus a ground. Bulky yes but the juice at the far end was good.

Based on the comments here and elsewhere I am not going to rush into a table saw decision. Better I do some proper research first, I think.
Thanks to everyone who gave input.

Dave, you are not going to fit a slider in your space me thinks!! Not and close the doors!!

Originally Posted by Enfield Guy

Dave, you are not going to fit a slider in your space me thinks!! Not and close the doors!!

Exactly. What was I thinking?
Actually what I was thinking was to disable the slider part until we move but I've realised even that is unrealistic and just stupid.
Better I get a cheap track saw and a cabinet saw like normal people.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

So I've had a closer look at what I have. Everything in the shed is currently on a single circuit that has a 16Amp fuse.
It runs underground to the shed in a galvanized pipe.

The line to the house was replaced a few months ago. However the line from there to the switchboard and the switchboard itself are not up to code. So to get a new line I need a new switchboard. Also I probably need a new line to the connection box.

It's doubtful a new line can be pulled through the old conduit but all the sparkies I got to look at it agreed that an above ground connection would be simple.

They all talked about installing a small switchbox inside the shed beside the light switch.

One pointed out that due to the 16Amp fuse I could probably just get away with running everything I want on the existing line. It depends how much the future table saw actually draws. His point was that he suspected the sustained current draw was a lot less than the rating put on the plates on the machines. Plus the startup surge probably wont be long enough to burn a 16Amp fuse.

For example I have a 2000W SCMS. His point was that (a) its unlikely to draw 2000W unless I'm cutting 100 x 100 hardwood and (b) not only is the startup current temporary but once the blade gets going chewing through the cut it doesn't use so much power. Even then the cut is only for a second.

One sparky doubted that the 2.2kw dust collector actually draws 2.2kw. He said 'its just an impeller'. I'm not sure about that. Air resistance can be a significant force. Although all these motors possibility draw less than advertised.

My worse case scenario would be while I have lights, fans and dust collector going and the air compressor starts itself while I'm using the table saw.

The question is, would a 16Amp fuse be enough?

I don't know what the air compressor draws. I don't have it on all the time. I could try to remember to run only one of the DC or compressor.

I have another complication though. If I load another 25 Amps of table saw and dust collector. The entire system is probably near its limit. Which is reason 2 why I probably have to replace the main line and main switchboard.

All of this is a worry because we don't want to spend too much money on this place.

I'll look at the quotes and think about it.


Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

The guy that wired my shed used a formulae something like this using the HP/Watts rating divided by 240v
100% for the first machine, 75% for the second, 2/3rds for the third , 1/2 for the fourth etc.

Whether that’s an accepted method I don’t know but my 40A sub switch board is humming along nicely with table saw, 2hp Dusty and 50mm vacuum cleaner all on together.

BTW I was like you and had to have the main switch board replaced plus all the PowerPoint cable in the old part of the house plus a partial rewire of the existing 20A cable to the shed. The switchboard also had to be moved. No change out of $4000.

New sub board in the shed with new line and 15A outlets was on top, and done by another guy.