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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Australia
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    39
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    11

    Default New table saw questions

    Hello all,

    I recently purchased a ozito table saw but now I have a couple questions

    - the rip fence attaches only at the front. It angles away from the blade as it passes past the blade. Is this normal?

    - the tip fence moves if I push on it. The clamp doesn't seem sturdy. I am thinking of making a new fence that is full length and clamped on both sides. Are there any issues with doing this?

    - I am thinking of building something with a wheel on the bottom to help hold the timber flat to the table. This way I just need to push rather than using two push sticks. Any dangers or issues with this?

    - cutting pine the edge seems rough. I am using the blade that came with it. Is there a better blade I should be using? Does more teeth make a smoother cut?

    Thanks all!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Bendigo
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    776

    Default

    Hey Duke,

    1. the fence MUST be parallel to the blade for that rip cut. If it isn't, well dangerous is the only word. The wood will bind and kick back, and if you're lucky a bruise or two, if not a couple of fingers might turn into stumps. Even Jimmy Diresta (YouTube) nearly lost a finger on a rip cut.

    2. that fence sounds like it should be in the bin. Not at all surprising with Ozito, sorry. Yes, work on building your own.

    3. Did you consider feather boards to hold down the timber?

    4. two push sticks always seemed clumsy to me, if by that you mean those long ones to keep your hands away from the business end. I use a long one to press from the side but one like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Htwk7FGWNuo to actually push and hold down the piece.

    5. Blade - maybe try to get a 20 tooth Irwin for now. I found one at my saw shop pretty cheap, under $40. does an awesome job for a cheap blade.

    Hope that helps a bit, have fun and stay safe

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,757

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by duke149 View Post
    Hello all,
    I recently purchased a ozito table saw but now I have a couple questions
    - the rip fence attaches only at the front. It angles away from the blade as it passes past the blade. Is this normal?
    Not for a table saw but it probably is normal for an Ozito product.

    - the tip fence moves if I push on it. The clamp doesn't seem sturdy. I am thinking of making a new fence that is full length and clamped on both sides. Are there any issues with doing this?
    Yes I would remake the fence and pay attention to Bendigo Bob's suggestions.

    - I am thinking of building something with a wheel on the bottom to help hold the timber flat to the table. This way I just need to push rather than using two push sticks. Any dangers or issues with this?
    Using two push sticks is tricky at first but its just a matter of practice and hen its second nature.

    - cutting pine the edge seems rough. I am using the blade that came with it. Is there a better blade I should be using? Does more teeth make a smoother cut?
    It's not an ideal solution but have your tried a slower cutting speed?
    Not the speed of the blade but the speed you are pushing the wood through - most newbies I see using a TS either push it too fast, or way too slow.
    More teeth will make a big difference
    I use 100 toothed blades on a 12" TS to get a really smooth cut.
    On 10" blades an 80 toothed blade is normally used.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by duke149 View Post
    I recently purchased a ozito table saw
    this one?
    Quote Originally Posted by duke149 View Post
    but now I have a couple questions

    - the rip fence attaches only at the front. This is normal on Euro style sliding panel saws costing tens of thousands, so of itself is not a fault
    It angles away from the blade as it passes past the blade. Is this normal? No, but it is better than the alternative where the fence angles into the blade. As Bendigo Bob noted, a fence that angles into the blade is dangerous. There may be an adjustment where the fence clamps to the front rail.
    - the tip fence moves if I push on it. The clamp doesn't seem sturdy. I am thinking of making a new fence that is full length and clamped on both sides. Are there any issues with doing this? What will the rear of the fence clamp to? And how would you keep the fence parallel to the blade

    - I am thinking of building something with a wheel on the bottom to help hold the timber flat to the table. This way I just need to push rather than using two push sticks. Any dangers or issues with this? What you are describing is a hold down mechanism, I'm not sure that your saw is sufficiently rigid to accommodate the forces which may be involved.

    - cutting pine the edge seems rough. I am using the blade that came with it. Is there a better blade I should be using? Does more teeth make a smoother cut? The blade usually supplied with a $219 saw might best be described as very low end. More teeth make for a smoother cut when cross cutting, but not when ripping. The tooth geometry is also important. The bad news is that two or three decent blades for your saw (1 x rip, 2 x cross cut, and 1 x multi purpose) could easily cost more than your saw. How far you go with blade quality depends on what you want to use the saw for and how much wobble is in the saw mechanism.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Lakelands
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Hey Duke.

    I recently brought the same (Rather was gifted) and I have essential torn the whole thing down and have built it into a large multi use table. I have just about finished a new B-Style fence system for it and then the blade will be the next to go.

    My blade doesn't have too much wobble in it as it stands however i was thinking of going to an 80 tooth Diabalo or something of the sort.

    My question for the general audience is, i have seen lots of 254mm and 235mm Blades but limited 250mm blades. Would either of these work on this exact saw? Issues with each?

    Cheers,

    Headband Warrior.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

    Default

    254 (10") and 250 mm blades should be interchangeable. (I'm not even sure that 250mm blades exist, I suspect that many blades marked as 250 mm are actually 10" blades rounded to 250 mm.)

    235 mm blades are typically designed for hand held circular saws.

    Issues you really need to be concerned with are:

    the arbor size -- I'm not sure what size arbor the Ozito comes with.

    arbor float or wobble -- too much wobble will mean that anything other than a low cost ripping blade will be a waste of money, and the whole saw a source of frustration.

    the purpose of the blade -- ripping (less teeth, 24 or less is good), general purpose (around 40-60 teeth), cross cut (up to 80 or 100 teeth).

    thin or standard kerf -- the kerf needs to be matched to your riving knife

    Blade grind and hook angle -- someone really should do a sticky on this as there are many many variables.

    You can expect to pay between $1.50 and $3.00 per tooth for a quality blade from a manufacturer like Freud.

    and then there are blades designed for special purposes -- like box joints
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Wide Bay Burnett Qld
    Posts
    293

    Default

    Hi duke149,
    When you have a fence that is parallel to the blade you could do what I have done. On my table saw I added a feather board to hold the timber down on the table I also made this jig to hold the timber to the fence. I have used these for 3 years now no kick backs yet only danger with the jig that holds the timber to the fence is when snaps your fingers on table. I only need to use one push stick this is the best jig I have made. I have now added another fence that sit on top of the other fence that you see in one of the pictures that is so I can take the feather board up higher for ripping taller timbers if I need to. I don't a photo of that part but if if you like a photo it just let me no. Those strong magnets you see in the picture is out of old hard drive. I hope that helps.
    .A feather board & Jig for Table Saw 1.jpgJig for holding timber against the fence on table saw 2.jpg

    Graham

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