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Thread: New table saw questions
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5th November 2016, 09:19 PM #1
New table saw questions
Hello all,
I recently purchased a ozito table saw but now I have a couple questions
- the rip fence attaches only at the front. It angles away from the blade as it passes past the blade. Is this normal?
- the tip fence moves if I push on it. The clamp doesn't seem sturdy. I am thinking of making a new fence that is full length and clamped on both sides. Are there any issues with doing this?
- I am thinking of building something with a wheel on the bottom to help hold the timber flat to the table. This way I just need to push rather than using two push sticks. Any dangers or issues with this?
- cutting pine the edge seems rough. I am using the blade that came with it. Is there a better blade I should be using? Does more teeth make a smoother cut?
Thanks all!
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5th November 2016 09:19 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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5th November 2016, 10:15 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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Hey Duke,
1. the fence MUST be parallel to the blade for that rip cut. If it isn't, well dangerous is the only word. The wood will bind and kick back, and if you're lucky a bruise or two, if not a couple of fingers might turn into stumps. Even Jimmy Diresta (YouTube) nearly lost a finger on a rip cut.
2. that fence sounds like it should be in the bin. Not at all surprising with Ozito, sorry. Yes, work on building your own.
3. Did you consider feather boards to hold down the timber?
4. two push sticks always seemed clumsy to me, if by that you mean those long ones to keep your hands away from the business end. I use a long one to press from the side but one like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Htwk7FGWNuo to actually push and hold down the piece.
5. Blade - maybe try to get a 20 tooth Irwin for now. I found one at my saw shop pretty cheap, under $40. does an awesome job for a cheap blade.
Hope that helps a bit, have fun and stay safe
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5th November 2016, 10:49 PM #3.
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Not for a table saw but it probably is normal for an Ozito product.
- the tip fence moves if I push on it. The clamp doesn't seem sturdy. I am thinking of making a new fence that is full length and clamped on both sides. Are there any issues with doing this?
- I am thinking of building something with a wheel on the bottom to help hold the timber flat to the table. This way I just need to push rather than using two push sticks. Any dangers or issues with this?
- cutting pine the edge seems rough. I am using the blade that came with it. Is there a better blade I should be using? Does more teeth make a smoother cut?
Not the speed of the blade but the speed you are pushing the wood through - most newbies I see using a TS either push it too fast, or way too slow.
More teeth will make a big difference
I use 100 toothed blades on a 12" TS to get a really smooth cut.
On 10" blades an 80 toothed blade is normally used.
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6th November 2016, 01:36 PM #4
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10th November 2016, 03:22 PM #5Intermediate Member
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Hey Duke.
I recently brought the same (Rather was gifted) and I have essential torn the whole thing down and have built it into a large multi use table. I have just about finished a new B-Style fence system for it and then the blade will be the next to go.
My blade doesn't have too much wobble in it as it stands however i was thinking of going to an 80 tooth Diabalo or something of the sort.
My question for the general audience is, i have seen lots of 254mm and 235mm Blades but limited 250mm blades. Would either of these work on this exact saw? Issues with each?
Cheers,
Headband Warrior.
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11th November 2016, 03:53 PM #6
254 (10") and 250 mm blades should be interchangeable. (I'm not even sure that 250mm blades exist, I suspect that many blades marked as 250 mm are actually 10" blades rounded to 250 mm.)
235 mm blades are typically designed for hand held circular saws.
Issues you really need to be concerned with are:
the arbor size -- I'm not sure what size arbor the Ozito comes with.
arbor float or wobble -- too much wobble will mean that anything other than a low cost ripping blade will be a waste of money, and the whole saw a source of frustration.
the purpose of the blade -- ripping (less teeth, 24 or less is good), general purpose (around 40-60 teeth), cross cut (up to 80 or 100 teeth).
thin or standard kerf -- the kerf needs to be matched to your riving knife
Blade grind and hook angle -- someone really should do a sticky on this as there are many many variables.
You can expect to pay between $1.50 and $3.00 per tooth for a quality blade from a manufacturer like Freud.
and then there are blades designed for special purposes -- like box jointsregards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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13th November 2016, 08:30 PM #7Senior Member
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Hi duke149,
When you have a fence that is parallel to the blade you could do what I have done. On my table saw I added a feather board to hold the timber down on the table I also made this jig to hold the timber to the fence. I have used these for 3 years now no kick backs yet only danger with the jig that holds the timber to the fence is when snaps your fingers on table. I only need to use one push stick this is the best jig I have made. I have now added another fence that sit on top of the other fence that you see in one of the pictures that is so I can take the feather board up higher for ripping taller timbers if I need to. I don't a photo of that part but if if you like a photo it just let me no. Those strong magnets you see in the picture is out of old hard drive. I hope that helps.
.A feather board & Jig for Table Saw 1.jpgJig for holding timber against the fence on table saw 2.jpg
Graham
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