Thread: Table saw rust and scratches

Rust is perfectly normal. The closer to the salt influence the more maintenance you have to do. One way to rectify the problem is to get some steel wool and maybe some painters Turps and give the whole surface a rub until you have a uniform colour all over the surface. You don't have to get a "silver" finish. Once you have removed the offending rust you can now apply the finish of choice. There are a lot of surface treatments around I use Silver Gleat. Its not cheap but it works well and does not contaminate the timber surface when you use the table saw. Stay completely away from anything with silicone init because its the worst contaminate to get onto a timber surface.
As you use the machine you will wear off the material you have put on the surface so you will have to reapply periodically to keep the rust off the surface of the table saw.

What Rod said and I cover all my cast iron beds and ways with a clean cotton sheet, use an old one from a charity shop, otherwise the boss will have the sheets with you for using her good sheets. Don't ask how I know this

Is steel wool a better option as opposed to et and dry sandpaper? And will it remove scratches?

Some fine wet rub will remove the rust and help with the scratches a little better than the steel wool. Use it with Turps or WD40 (or equivalent).
I use U-Beaut Traditional Wax to protect my CI surfaces. Remove any residue left from the cleaning process, put it on and then buff off by hand once it has dried.
As Pat has said, cover the surface loosely with a cloth or tarp to stop dust settling on the surface, as this seems to attract rust. Maybe it helps to keep some moisture away as well. The wax seems to last at least a couple of months before needing to be re-applied in my case.

Originally Posted by wwf9984

Is steel wool a better option as opposed to et and dry sandpaper? And will it remove scratches?

Don't worry about the scratches. Use steel wool or scotchbrites. Then use silver glide or as I prefer just one of the Ubeaut waxes and give it a good buffing.

Should you be worries about the wax contaminating the timber just use some wax and grease remover on the timber.

When it comes time to recoat the top use the wax and grease remover with a scotch brite and reapply the wax.

This method works for me on all my cast iron surfaces.

Used P800 wet and dry sandpaper with WD40, managed to remove the glue.
However, introduced more scuffs. Anyway, guess it's inevitable.

You might want to have a look at this.

Get into it with the ROS and a 120 grit disc. Works a treat.