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  1. 5th November 2016, 03:23 PM #1
    Devery
    Devery is offline Intermediate Member
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    Default Table Saw Top Dip

    Hello,

    I recently acquired a second hand table saw and I'm wondering about the table tops flatness.

    It was made in Taiwan, I think in the late 90's. Woodworking & Furniture Digest

    Model: KS-12L
    12"
    Tilting arbour
    3hp 3 phase motor

    With regards to the table top, I ran a straight edge perpendicular to the mitre slots to find the table dips by about 1mm over a 500mm span, just left of the saw blade. This happens closer to the front of the saw and less at the back. Firstly, will this be a big issue? I plan on building a cross cut sled and other jigs so this might help for cross cuts and the table is closer to flat on the right side of the saw for ripping etc.

    I noticed there was a bolt under the table top roughly where it dips most and its not doing anything. I was wondering if it was common for tables to include a bolt to correct or prevent warping? I might remove the top and check it for flatness then also.

    Lastly, would it be worth while looking into getting it flattened? Not sure about process or price here, any tips? Milled? Ground?

    Thanks!

    James.
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  3. 8th November 2016, 10:28 PM #2
    simops
    simops is offline Senior Member
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    Default

    This is were I got my table top flattened a few years ago.....

    HM Precision Grinding Service

    in Cheltenham, Victoria

    cheers
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  4. 9th November 2016, 12:10 AM #3
    RedShirtGuy's Avatar
    RedShirtGuy
    RedShirtGuy is offline He's dead Jim
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    Default

    A little while ago I spent a sizable amount of time flattening the table on my TSC-10HB...glass on MDF with sandpaper attached etc etc. (I can't find the post about it sorry.) I got a beautifully flat table but then I noticed that at least one of the the lips of the cabinet (where the table was bolted through) was horrendously over 90 degrees and that that corner specifically was causing me grief in getting everything flat, and then, in tightening the table to the cabinet while I used to a dial indicator to align the slots to the blade...it was the corner that buggered up everything.


    1mm is a fair bit to take off a table, so perhaps measure what it looks like while is isn't attached to the cabinet (ie: no stresses). If the variation is reasonably different, then look at the lips of the cabinet and see if they're over/under 90deg and flat across, then look at whether it's the bolting down that's causing the warping.

    Given that your problem seems to be in the center of the table, my advice may be utterly useless, but at least you'll get an idea of where that problem is at...be it table or cabinet.

    The important thing (I think) is having any flattening done in-situ, on a flat lipped cabinet, and under the stresses of bolting down...which is damn near impossible and is why I spent so long do it by hand myself...that is of course unless the top is horrendously out on its' own.
    Every time you make a typo, the errorists win.
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