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13th September 2020, 10:00 AM #46.
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- Nov 2008
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One Job Finished, On To Another.
I purchased some 80 grit cloth backed abrasive from Abrasiflex and glued it onto the disc. Works as well as I will ever need it to.
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That out of the way I tackled something a bit simpler. The lower sheetmetal saw guard was attached with two mismatched 1/4" BSW wingnuts that were fiddly and somewhat awkward to use so I made a pair of easier to use knurled nuts from brass and 'blackened' them with Birchwood Casey's 'Brass Black' to match the machine's other fixings. I had contemplated turning a gentle radius on the face of the nuts but opted for a quick and easy 5 degree taper.
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Bob.
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13th September 2020 10:00 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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13th September 2020, 10:14 AM #47.
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- Feb 2006
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- Perth
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Looks good bob - I love "crisp" knurling.
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13th September 2020, 11:30 AM #48.
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13th September 2020, 10:08 PM #49
Shouldn't you have made FOUR of those nuts.
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13th September 2020, 11:52 PM #50GOLD MEMBER
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- Oct 2018
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That knurling is gnarly.
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14th September 2020, 09:32 AM #51.
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14th September 2020, 09:42 AM #52GOLD MEMBER
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- Mar 2018
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- Sydney
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14th September 2020, 10:32 AM #53.
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- Perth
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14th September 2020, 07:48 PM #54.
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- Nov 2008
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The Jointer Guard
The pivot pin in the guard was deformed and wobbled. On removal, there was a cross drilled hole in the pin and a steel plug embedded in the cast aluminium. Hard to imagine that the original pin might have snapped off in the casting and it's also puzzling that the pin fitted was so badly misshapen.
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The hole for the 3/8" diameter pin was no longer round so I chose to increase its diameter to 11.5mm, the tapping drill diameter for a 1/2" x 20 UNF thread, the fine thread having a reasonable amount of thread engagement compared to say a 1/2 x 12 BSW thread.
The replacement pin is a piece of 1020 bar. I had to finish the thread to size with a button die because I couldn't screw the guard onto the threaded pin while mounted on the lathe. The button die is in the chuck and the pin in the tailstock chuck only to provide alignment at the commencement of the thread. I used a diestock and my bench vice for the final fitting.
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Next will be a replacement guard locking pin. Might feature some gnarly knurling.
BT
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15th September 2020, 09:20 PM #55
It looks like the pivot pin has been broken & then put in backwards. The cross hole is for the return spring pin, as shown in this photo.
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The guard is in the closed position in the photo, which shows the required orientation of the hole.
When you make the locking pin for the guard, remember not to make it stick up higher than the saw table.
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16th September 2020, 02:22 AM #56.
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- Nov 2008
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- Perth WA
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- 71
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- 5,650
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16th September 2020, 09:44 AM #57
The spring anchor pin's not threaded, it only slips into the pivot pin. I assume that's so you can easily remove the guard for planing wider material. Each diameter of the pin is about 25mm long.
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16th September 2020, 10:24 AM #58.
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Mike,
I had been planning on tapping the hole in the Universal's table so that the locking pin could be screwed in place. Silly or worthwhile idea?
Got as far as making a knurled brass thingo and a 1/4" BSW threaded stud.....
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16th September 2020, 12:18 PM #59
I wouldn't worry about a screw in locking pin, I'd just turn down the end of the knob to fit the holes, and round it over. The weight will keep it in place, I've just got a brass machine screw sitting in mine.
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22nd September 2020, 04:22 PM #60.
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- Nov 2008
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- Perth WA
- Age
- 71
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- 5,650
The Jointer Guard - Again
I pursued the idea of being able to lock the guard in place with a thumbscrew because there is a remote chance that my daughter may use the machine and better to be safe than sorry.
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The return spring and the removable pin are a slight variation on the original shown in Mike's photo. The pin and the guard's pivot pin are 4140 and the pressed on brass spacer raises the guard just enough that the guard doesn't scrape on the table. The guard takes a couple of seconds to remove.
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