Thread: TAS-1210MA 10" & 12" Table Saw

Ok just found this can someone have a quick peek and give me your opinion.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxRSarTJLMU]Woodworking #55- Tablesaw Setup/Tuneup (Pt 1) - YouTube[/ame]

I recall a tablesaw setup in one of the monthly (or was it quarterly) "in Focus" magasines Carbatec was putting out for a while that had a comprehensive tablesaw setup in it. I filed it away for future reference and I just tried to retrieve it but it seems I filed it too far away. There may be a copy on their website but I am going to bed, It might be worth you having a look though.

Doug

Well about 95% done came up against a bit of an issues on the fence.

The fence is 2mm out at the furthest end, from the blade when I try to adjust that out I get pinching on the bar that the fence clamps down onto as I move the fence closer to the blade.

Anyone experience this at all?

My thinking is to re-drill the holes on the angle that holds the bar just a little bit wider so i can adjust the bar back just a little this should alleviate the pinching.

First question - "Is the blade parallel to the mitre guage slots?" If not dont even think of moving anything else first.

Doug

Originally Posted by doug3030

First question - "Is the blade parallel to the mitre guage slots?" If not dont even think of moving anything else first.

Doug

Yep its spot on Doug spent a good amount of time on it.

Willy, the Woodwhisperer vid is what I would have recommended.
You shouldn't have to drill anything to get it to line up. I'm not sure what you mean by 'pinching on the bar that the fence clamps down onto'.
Is the face of the fence flat?

Originally Posted by NCArcher

Willy, the Woodwhisperer vid is what I would have recommended.
You shouldn't have to drill anything to get it to line up. I'm not sure what you mean by 'pinching on the bar that the fence clamps down onto'.
Is the face of the fence flat?

Hi NC yep looked at many things and found that video yesterday it really helped.

Whats happening is when I adjust the fence using the adjustments to get it straight (see pic) then move it along the closer I get to the blade it pinches and I cant move it unless I use unnecessary force.

I have got it to a stage that now when I lock the fence into position its very close to parallel to the blade but still about a mm out I can get it spot on but then I cant move the fence .

I walked away last night will look at it again this afternoon.

So my thinking is that bar at the front needs to be adjusted out a little

I just had a look at my saw. I have an even gap all the way along the front of the saw but I did notice that the square bar the fence rides on has the mounting holes slightly offset.
The square bar isn't on back to front is it? That would give you a slightly tighter clearance for the fence clamp to run in.
I hope that makes sense, I just read it back and I think I know what I'm talking about

Originally Posted by NCArcher

I just had a look at my saw. I have an even gap all the way along the front of the saw but I did notice that the square bar the fence rides on has the mounting holes slightly offset.
The square bar isn't on back to front is it? That would give you a slightly tighter clearance for the fence clamp to run in.
I hope that makes sense, I just read it back and I think I know what I'm talking about

Clear as mud mate, you could be right I will see if its the wrong way around see if I can change it when I get home may have to give myself an early mark.

If you have a chance could you measure the gap between the Angle and the Bar as well .

Gap is 12.5 - 13.0mm
there is a 2 - 3mm gap between the fence and the angle iron when the fence is clamped down.

Originally Posted by NCArcher

Gap is 12.5 - 13.0mm
there is a 2 - 3mm gap between the fence and the angle iron when the fence is clamped down.

Thanks NC checked against your measurements and mine were a lot tighter i couldn't turn it around seems it can only go one way so I just enlarged the holes a little most of this was paint and this has worked now I can align it without a problem.

Now next problem how to get rid of those bloody scratches na stuff it i will just live them i am sure there will be plenty more.

now time to start thinking about a Dado blade.

Mines got a few scratches as well, mainly from me getting it out of the ute by myself
I got a dado blade recently and I really like using it. You can't quite get 3/4 " of blades on but the saw has no trouble spinning it. I used it recently to make some big tennons.

And your other question. I think the reason the saw table has a bevel is to accommodate the mitre gauge. When the mitre gauge is pulled forward of the table, and then pushed back onto the table, the beveled edge allows it to slip past the table edge easily. The table extensions dont need it.

Originally Posted by Arron

And your other question. I think the reason the saw table has a bevel is to accommodate the mitre gauge. When the mitre gauge is pulled forward of the table, and then pushed back onto the table, the beveled edge allows it to slip past the table edge easily. The table extensions dont need it.

Thanks Arron had me stumped but that makes sense lol.

What are peoples thoughts on the mitre?