Thread: New TS blade. Opteco vs Forrest, Tenryu etc.

I can recommend Leuco and Dimar blades. I would not recommend Carbitool saws; their router bits are fantastic, saw blades ... not so much. They're also not made locally, they only make router bits here.

How much do people get hung up on keeping a consistent kerf and plate thickness across their blade collection?

I'm thinking if I got a general purpose blade and then later dedicated ripping and cross cut (or sheet goods) blades, it would be beneficial if they all had exactly the same kerf thickness AND plate thickness.

In theory this would allow complete re-use with:
- ZCI's
- Sleds
- Riving knife / splitter
- Fence scale calibration
etc.

In theory

but ZCIs don't take that long to make, so matching one to each blade is, to my mind, not a biggie.

Riving knives are more critical, so it would be nice to keep to a consistent blade width for that alone.

Sleds would typically be set-up for cross cutting so ideally would be matched to your preferred cross cut blade.

for general every day use a combo blade is probably OK, but then again given the compromises, you may not bother with a ZCI when using a combo blade.

Originally Posted by mcwoody

Yep, I've definitely come across the Ridge Carbide TS2000 in my research.
Seems like a very well regarded blade.

I was actually in touch with the owner John Ferrie (who answered my "contact us" email).
He was quite helpful and was willing to do postage to AU, but at $65 USD. That would make $190 USD for the 12" TS2000 delivered (add $19 USD for a 30mm bore)

I also feel a big part of the advantage of owning a Ridge Carbide or Forrest in the states is that you can send it back to the manufacturer for sharpening.

I just got quoted $165USD for a 12"/300mm blade with brake pin holes and a 30mm bore + $70USD (approx) postage. I don't know about that as a 315mm blade gives a significant increase in cutting depth and they appear to not have one or did not address the question when I asked so I assume they don't.

I have a couple of opteco blades and I reckon they are pretty decent, they are as good as some of the more expensive blades I have.

You wouldn't read about this. When I bought my K3 Hammer I scored some blades in the deal and after having them for about four years I thought I might see what happens and how good they are. The saw jammed a bit into the first cut so I started investigating why is this so, it turns out that this rip blade is a thin kerf Silent Power blade and the riving knife is too thick, I rang Felder and got a price of $60 for a riving knife to suit so I can see how good this blade is.

It's a sawblade. You cut with it. Then you joint/dress/sand/whatever. Don't be getting too carried away with it... any decent blade will do, and a sharp throwaway with the right tooth pattern will do better then a blunt expensive one.

I run Dimar on the small stuff and Opteco on the big gear. No complaints in either case. Opteco are Australian made, and will stand up in the cut in Australian hardwoods better than any other breed. Dimar are good too, and a bit more cost effective when the tablesaw is ripping kilometers a day and the objective is to wear them out and replace rather then wear them out and retip.

my $0.02 anyway