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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Default TS Undertable Dust Extraction Question

    Ok, all you TS owners.....at least ones with enclosed cabinets....

    I want to know how much dust generally collects under the saw inside the cabinet....

    I have a Jet JTAS 10XL....its cabinet inside has a sloping base that is angled towards the 100mm dust extraction port....

    I have a 1200 cfm Jet extractor connected....

    It seems to me that there is a fair amount of dust that settles in the cabinet, away from the port......in a bit of a slope...i.e, where the high part of the slide as a mountain and I think dust needs to move by way of gravity towards until it gets to the striking zone of the port....

    When I put my hand inside the port, there seems to be a fair amount of suction.....

    Anyone able to comment on my observations....

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Murrumba Downs, QLD, Australia
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    Default

    I just let the dust build up.
    The sawdust tends to form a slope of its own down to the extraction point and doesn't get any worse than that.
    So I tend not to worry too much about it.
    Occaisionally I will vacuum it all out with the dust extractor.

    lpg_falcon.

  4. #3
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    Default

    I think you've described 99% of cabinet saws. It needs a funnel shaped bottom to help the flow into the exit, as the velocity of the air reduces rapidly as the distance from the pipe end increases.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Redlands area, Brisbane
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    Default

    That's pretty much my observation as well.

    I bought a Powermatic PM2000 which has a shroud around the blade. It is far from perfect and there is still plenty of dust all around the inside of the cabinet. I just clean it out every couple of weeks.

    The only real concern is if you accidentally cut a nail or some other metal object. The hot metal will end up in the saw dust. Just something to be aware of if it ever happens to you. Believe me you will know!

  6. #5
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    Dec 2004
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    Default

    There is often a gap where you lose suction around where the top meets the cabinet and also where 45 deg tilt hole is. Try sealing these with tape and it should suck a lot more away.


  7. #6
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    Sep 2007
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    Nicholls ACT
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    Quote Originally Posted by dazzler View Post
    There is often a gap where you lose suction around where the top meets the cabinet and also where 45 deg tilt hole is. Try sealing these with tape and it should suck a lot more away.
    I use a zero clearance plate and was having trouble clearing dust. I drilled a 12mm hole at the very tip of the zero clearance hole and my dust extraction improved. I also note that when not using a zero clearance plate my dust extraction from the cabinet is even better. ( I still use one most of the time because a cleaner cut is better than a bit of accummulated saw dust.) Occassionally I remove the throat plate all together and turn on the dusty and that clears out all the saw dust.

    As dust extractors need a large airflow I think you may reduce the dust collected if you reduce airflow by sealing the cabinet. Not definative but just my theory on why I get these results.
    I never make mistakes, I thought I did once but I was mistaken

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  8. #7
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    Jan 2007
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    Goulburn NSW
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    every now and then I stir the dust up with compressed air
    les

  9. #8
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    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Default

    I don't have a cabinet saw but When I modified my Contractors saw base to accept a 100 mm diam duct extraction hose using a flat sheet of ply and a 100 mm hole I noticed the same problem so I made a conical shaped base out of sheet ally. The cone profile matches that made by the sawdust so it stays relatively clear of sawdust apart from the square corners inside the base where it collects.

    I posted some info about it here. http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...9&postcount=17

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Northen Rivers NSW
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    Hi

    here is a link to some dusty mods I did to my table saw. If you look at the last photo on the first batch you can see the amount of sawdust/chips being sucked in and the amount of flow.

    Pusser is spot on that it cant be completely sealed. I had a zero clearance insert and it had holes drilled over it that had been chamfered to allow more dust out.

    There is also a pic of the magnetic cover for the 45 deg slot.

    cheers

    dazzler


  11. #10
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    Nov 2004
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    ....................................................................

  12. #11
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    Oct 2003
    Location
    Gold Coast
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    I have a Jet 10" Supersaw and the dust builds up as you have described. I suspect that the smaller particles become electrostatically charged and this is why dust "sticks" to the cabinet. I usually give all four sides of the cabinet a bang with my hand after I finished sawing (but before the DC gets turned off). My Jet has a handy access panel at the rear and I usually just get in with the hose at the end of the day and give it a clean out.
    "If something is really worth doing, it is worth doing badly." - GK Chesterton

  13. #12
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    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
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    I have a TL10S (Carbatec clone of PM2000) and get a bit of a build up every now and again, which I normally vacuum out with my Shopvac.

    However this morning I removed the dado set and noticed a lot of build up, far more than I have ever seen. Investigated and it turns out I have been cutting a fair bit of cypress pine, dados and cross cuts) and some of this timber is so oily that the sawdust actually sticks to verything it touches, including the soles of your boots. This cause a blockage in the dust offtake in the shroud around the blade, took a while to get it all out too.

    Hope there isn't too much stuck in the ducting etc.

    First time I have ever worked with cypress pine, smells nice but boy is it sticky!

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harry72 View Post
    .....brained my damage


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