Thread: whats wrong with my table saw motor?

It's disturbing what some technicians know or more precisely don't know.
Anyway it's at the very least a lesson for us all to swap blades to task in the future?

I've taught a couple of technicians how to use features on their own machines. I reckon they get a free pass on some of the fine tuning that is often user/application specific and that many people wouldn't even know exists, let alone know how to adjust, but a basic tear-down should be well within their capability.

Did a bit of resawing on the panel saw today, slicing some 160x25 American Oak in half. 400mm 32T blade and dropped the speed down to 3000rpm, working from both edges so roughly 80mm depth of cut in a single pass. The low rpm really makes a difference and it just breezes through with no burning. Power transmission is a single V-belt on gravity tension (just the weight of the motor), so even if the blade stalls (which is pretty easy to do) the motor can still slip a little bit.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

400mm 32T blade and dropped the speed down to 3000rpm, .

A 400 mm blade at 3000 rpm has the same linear speed as s 300 mm blade at 4000 rpm (this is pretty standard for a 300 mm blade)

But I think you get more torque from changing pulley ratio?

A bit of update:

I was overseas for a bit and got back early March, before I went away I gave the motor to a local motor winding company and ask them to see whats the issue, the technician got back to me and quoted 2 motors, one being $200 cheaper than the other, oh, and my motor burnt out evenly due to overload.

obviously I told them to go ahead with the cheaper motor ($500 gst inclusive). but turn out the motor is a lot bigger in terms of its physical size and wont fit underneath the combination machine, feeling hopeless, I then asked Jacks (I bought my Robland from them) to give me a quote of the original motor - $1200 not including freight, not including gst

I then searched my local motor supplier and found a supplier who offers the widest range of electrical motors - I showed the picture of my motor plate to one of the older person in their office and they were able to tell me a story about my motor's manufacturer - I had a hunch they will be able to supply a same motor

Turns out they have the exact same motor with same physical dimension in stock - made in EU. if you ever need replacement of your motor, go to Brook MTL.

I hired an electrician, he played around with the capacitor/wiring, the saw is now back in business.

Lesson learnt:
1. Dont use a finish blade to rip
2. if you ever gonna buy a table saw/panel saw/saw bench/planer/spindle moulder. check how difficult/easy it is to replace the motor, I can only replace the saw motor by uplift the machine - shove the motor from underneath and then try to find a way up through the confined space. I got lucky cos I had a crane which I was able to lift the combination machine and then wiggle my way through.

Good that you got it sorted.

If it were me I would be asking why didn't the current overload sensor in the saw contractor prevent this happening in the first place.
Did you consider asking your sparky to lower the trip current slightly in the contractor? It may only need a to be reduced by a few tenths of an amp.

BTW On a VFD this is a small programming mod.

It did - I manually resetted it everytime it overloads. I was being anal to my saw....

Originally Posted by Albert

It did - I manually resetted it everytime it overloads. I was being anal to my saw....

OK now I remember.