Thread: Have I bought the wrong model Thicknesser

Originally Posted by Normanby

My question to experienced woodworkers is would the DW735-XE handle hardwood ok?

Normanby,

With most portable thicknessers, the harder the timber, the smaller the depth or width of cut you can make, and/or the slower you need to feed the material when machining. (Note: I've avoided using the terms "Hardwood" and "Softwood". Some hardwood timbers are softer than the hardest softwood timbers.) Plus most North American hardwoods that DeWalt would be expecting to cut, are not as tough and narly as some of the Australian hardwoods.

If you were running maximum width boards through a portable thicknesser, you might for example be able to take a 1.5 mm cut without tearout on radiata pine, but only be able to take an 0.75 mm cut without tearout if you were dressing the same width in a Forest Red Gum board. If you were looking to make a cut that was ready for final finish sanding, you might take a cut as small as 0.5mm (or less if your blades are sharp), with the slowest feed speed your machine has.

According to the specs, the DW735-XE has a motor that is a touch over 2 HP, so it's got a fair bit of grunt. It also apprears to have two feed speeds. So, I'd use the slower feed speed when machining harder narly timbers.

It is more likely that you'll probably only be machining narrower timber (i.e. less than 150 mm wide) so there will be less effort for the motor when doing a less than full width cuts anyway.

Lastly, we almost never need to take "big bites" when thicknessing timber, and we are usually looking for a smooth finish without tearout, and a sure fire way of getting tearout on a thicknesser is to try to take too thick a cut, and/or to feed the timber too quickly. Sharp blades/cutters are a must. Make sure that replacement blades/cutters are available easily - you'll need them. As the blades on your thicknesser are re-sharpenable (probably not many times before they'll have to be replaced), then have a spare set ready so that you can continue working while you get the blunt set sharpened.

My personal view, for what it's worth, is taht teh DW735-XE will probably be Ok for teh work you've described, provided you work within the unit's limitations.

If you're really worried, and you haven't used the thicknesser yet, you could try exchanging it, but most places will want it back in an as sold condition in it's original packaging, before they'll do an exchange.

Hope that info helps.

Regards,

Roy

I'll go one step further than Roy and say it will be fine. I have an el cheapo Ryobi with less power than your Dewalt and have been thicknessing hardwoods for over 10 years. Take small bites and if you need to remove a lot of timber you are better off resawing anyway. The dewalts are very nice portable machines and I think it will do everything that you need it to.

Welcome to the forum.

Thanks for your replies. I am going to keep this machine and will take care with the cut setting size when I use it on all types of wood, but especially hardwoods.
I have noted advice in other threads about painted timber and using a metal detector to make sure used timber is free of imbedded metal bits.
If anyone else cares to comment I would be pleased to read your responses.
Regards.

A bit late but don't come here often....

I have a735 and no problems cutting hardwood if you take advice above.

one thing I've noted is that the OEM blades quickly blunt or nick without too much effort.

you get two edges on each blade for a reason....you'll be changing them more regularly then thicker re-sharpable units.

i believe Infinity in the USA make an aftermarket blade for the 735 that lasts about 4-5 times longer than the OEM version.....for about same price.

Snipe can also be an issue if you don't level the infeed and outfeed tables accurately. Some of the advice is to raise the infeed and outfeed tables 1mm above the main centre table. I have just made sure it was level and snipe is almost invisible....

cheers

I've had a Dewalt 735 for well over a year now, bought a Byrd Cutter to fit to it when I killed the original blades but they just won't die...

I also installed a set of infeed and outfeed tables about 6 months ago which work well...

IMHO it's a very good machine....cheers, crowie

A metal detector is a must for any recycled material.

You check it before running through the thicknesser and again after you have done the first run.
When you take that top coating of sometimes there can be some perils hidden underneath that the detector does not pick up.

I am unsure if you realise that with a thicknesser if the timber is twisted and warped going in, it will still be twisted and warped when it comes though only thinner.

You need a jointer to get square timber or can do it on a table saw but needs a lot of jigging

You'll also find that paint can be particularly wearing on the blades if you are trying to skim a layer of paint off the timber.