Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 24
-
20th August 2005, 05:29 PM #1Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Berry
- Posts
- 37
If I buy a jointer first, how do I use it without a thicknesser?
I only joined this forum two days ago, and already I've had replies to a post I made about which jointer to buy, so thanks to all.
For a long time I have wanted to buy a jointer and thicknesser, but also needed a dust collection system, so seemed like a big outlay in one hit. But due to a good sale I’ve now been able to buy the dust collection system. Am just about to go and assemble it.
Now for the next purchase. I have pretty much decided to buy an 8'' Powermatic jointer at the Canberra Wood Show. So to my question.
<o =""></o>
How useful is the jointer without the thicknesser, (it will come a bit later)? I read a thread from someone asking about which to buy first, but haven’t been able to find it again.
<o =""></o>
But my real question is, how much use it the jointer on its own? Are there particular techniques if you only have a jointer?
<o =""></o>Any advice greatly appreciated.
<o =""></o>
Cheers Coffee
-
20th August 2005 05:29 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
20th August 2005, 05:46 PM #2
You cannot plane a board and end up with both sides parallel on a jointer.
A thicknesser is more versatile if you square & straighten edges with a router or sawbech
-
20th August 2005, 06:39 PM #3
Buy the thicknesser first. Yoy can true up boards on a thicknesser with a simple jig. The jointer can come later.
Check out
www.tritonwoodworkers.org.au
and go to the newsletter section. In the recent July issue, there's info and photos on how this is done.If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
-
20th August 2005, 07:40 PM #4Originally Posted by Gumby
-
20th August 2005, 10:26 PM #5
use a sawbench
or
a circular saw against a straightedge
or
a router against a straightedge
-
20th August 2005, 10:27 PM #6
Table saws and shooting boards both crack a mention on this one. Anyway whats wrong with the dark side, a sharp plane and a shooting board make short work of most timber.
JohnC
-
20th August 2005, 11:26 PM #7Originally Posted by johnc
- Andy Mc
-
20th August 2005, 11:31 PM #8
I got a thicknesser first, and it's great: especially when you hook it up to the dust collector. I do flattening with dark-side handplanes.
Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
-
20th August 2005, 11:36 PM #9
Gidday Coffee
My advise go a thicknesser .................. dust collection ..................then Jointer. You get the best results having a number of specific tools working for you in your shop.....................Check out what marksey has to say on the issue:
http://www.diynet.com/diy/ww_shop/ar...278284,00.html
REgards louJust Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time
-
21st August 2005, 12:47 AM #10Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Berry
- Posts
- 37
Thanks everyone, the consensus seems to be to go for the thicknesser first. Which logically leads to my next question, which one would you recommend?
Unlike the Powermatic jointer that I have seen such good reviews of, I don't have any real ideas of which thicknesser I would buy.
I know of the Carbi-tech 15'' CTJ-680 and CTJ-381, although haven't studied them enough to see the diifference, other than a mobile base on the later, but they look quite different in the catalogue and prices are obviously different.
I'm also familar with the Jet 15'', which is a lot more expensive than the CBT's. Whilst I have seen it, I haven't seen any feedback on its performance.
Any comments on these or other options?
cheers Coffee
-
21st August 2005, 01:06 AM #11
I have the JET 15”. It is my first and only thicknesser so I cannot give you comparison with the others.
It is very good out of the box, very powerful, 2 speeds and it is on wheels. It comes with a knife setting guage which makes it a lot easier to get accurate setup.
-
21st August 2005, 08:55 AM #12Therapeutic woodworker
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Location
- rural Sydney
- Age
- 75
- Posts
- 47
Coffee,
I agree with all the comments for a thicknesser first.
I bought a CTJ-680 a while ago and am very happy with it. Whichever one you buy make sure you get a second set of blades with a decent Tungsten content. The standard blades are just HSS.
I considered the CTJ-381 too but as far as I could see the major functional difference was the 381 has a fixed cutter head and moves the table, whilst the 680 moves the head. I went for the 680 because I liked the idea of a fixed height table so I could easily have supports for long pieces and not have to keep adjusting them.
The cost works out about the same when you factor in a mobile base for the 680 which is built in for the 381.
The major failing of the 680 is it has the DC port pointing along the line of the exiting wood, not angled off. I plan to modify mine but for now I have a support under the flexible pipe to keep it out of the way. Actually less of a hassle than I thought.
On a recent visit to CT I noticed that the 680 on display had rollers and not solid cast iron for the in and outfeed. I don't like that idea and like my solid ones. Make sure you get a tin of Silverglide - great stuff for all the sliding surfaces around the shop and stops any rusting.
Last advice - when you buy a jointer get one with a long bed. It makes a huge difference when trying to get wobbly timber straight.
cheersDr Dee
Trying to work less and machine my time away
-
21st August 2005, 10:10 AM #13Originally Posted by Dr Dee
I agree with Dr. Dee that fixed tables makes using infeed and outfeed support much easier. No need to constanly adjust the support tables. You may prefer this style if you work mainly on your own and often dress long and heavy boards. If you work pieces can be handled easily on your own, then a rising table won't be an issue to you.
Cheers
-
21st August 2005, 10:44 AM #14
Think there's still a problem with buying a thicknesser first....I mean, how easy is for everyone else to attach a flat board to a uneven surface, without it moving about ? ....still ideal to have jointer in the equation.
If I was you Coffee, I'd do things properly the first time. Jointer first, then thickness. Ideally this is what you should everytime you true timber. So, maybe try and find the funds to buy both at once. Then you wont have to muck about with jigs and the like. Can joint an edge the proper machine way. (prefer hand planes, sure, but by machine, IMO jointer can't be beat).
-
21st August 2005, 11:03 AM #15
A review of my thicknesser:
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/ryobiap13.htmThose are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
Similar Threads
-
Thicknesser or Jointer
By jess22 in forum JOINTERS, MOULDERS, THICKNESSERS, ETCReplies: 17Last Post: 5th April 2005, 02:53 AM -
Leda 15" thicknesser and 8" jointer
By Ian007 in forum Links to: TOOLS & MACHINERYReplies: 4Last Post: 2nd March 2005, 01:17 PM -
Jointer, thicknesser or combo?
By Wild Dingo in forum JOINTERS, MOULDERS, THICKNESSERS, ETCReplies: 4Last Post: 5th November 2004, 10:41 AM -
Jointer v thicknesser
By jimmyjames in forum JOINTERS, MOULDERS, THICKNESSERS, ETCReplies: 3Last Post: 12th July 2004, 11:48 AM -
Thicknesser or jointer planer
By Woodster in forum JOINTERS, MOULDERS, THICKNESSERS, ETCReplies: 28Last Post: 16th January 2004, 08:09 AM