Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    1,220

    Default Canadian "SEARS" radial arm saw

    I have an OLD radial arm saw that I bought secondhand many years ago. Model is a 10" 113.27860C and has the digital readout.
    I think the bearings have failed as it is hard to move and when it does move it is 'sloppy'. ie kerf is about double what it should be.

    I have the operator manual but it doesn't go into replacing the bearings.

    A long shot I know, but has anyone had any experience with replacing these bearings? Or know where to find the info.
    I have done some internet surfing and found some info. (I even had the blade guard replaced several years ago under a product recall - now that was fantastic work!)

    Any help appreciated.
    Lyle.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Alexandra Vic
    Age
    69
    Posts
    2,810

    Default

    Cant help with a Sears unit, but I have a B&D/Dewalt from the late 60's. The carriage bearings on that have a radiused surface on the outer race, running in a cove shaped track in the cast arm. There are two bearings each side, on one side they are secured with a normal shoulder bolt and nut, on the other side they are secured with a shoulder bolt which has the threaded portion eccentric to the shoulder, so rotating the bolt adjusts the clearance between the carriage, bearings and arm to eliminate slop at that level.

    There are a number of other pivot points and stops in the rest of the mechanism, and any play or misalignment of these can also create slop in the system.

    There is a good book by a guy who goes under the name of Mr Sawdust (Walter Kunkle) called 'How to Master the Radial Arm Saw' that talks a lot about set up and adjustment, mostly with DeWalt's but the principles are transferable. I have the Instruction and Parts manuals for my DW, and have supplied PDF copies for others, but many are now available for download from the DW web site, and are better quality than my scans ( thin semi transparent paper so the scan tends to include a feint imprint of whatever is on the reverse side of the page as well).

    Not sure which model bearings you require, so cannot advise where to get them, but Sears product was generally produced under contract by established manufacturers and rebadged as Sears so it may be possible to track down the manufacturer and try to locate parts for their equivalent model.

    Come back if you want copies of the manuals or info etc.
    I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    1,220

    Default

    Thanks malb.
    I am waiting for a reply from Sears. Not too confident but have asked to see if they may have something in their archives.
    There is info out there but have yet to find what I need.
    I understand the principle with the bearings, but will need to reverse engineer the method to get them out.
    The saw was working well but then after a long period of standing, it was binding on the track.
    I tried cleaning etc, but after a few runs it became really sloppy and hard to move.
    So that is why I suspect that a bearing or bearings has collapsed.

    Thanks
    Lyle.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Alexandra Vic
    Age
    69
    Posts
    2,810

    Default

    My DW 7740 has a cast iron arm casting with an end panel screwed to it to accommodate the switch. If the end plate is removed, the entire carriage can be rolled off the arm or reinstalled. The shoulder bolts that mount the carriage bearings have a hex socket at the threaded end so they can be adjusted with a spanner on the nut and an Allen key in the socket.

    I suspect that your saw is a rebadged Craftsman, based purely on the model number structure, which is similar to a range of other Craftsman model numbers. However as I understand it, Craftsman also rebadge units from a range of manufacturers. The first three numbers of the model no apparently relate to the original manufacturer (at least for current products).

    I googled Craftsman Radial Arm Saw and found this link which is the Sears Direct parts site, but could not find an exact match to the model number you quoted. From the parts diagrams that I found for 113 series saws, it appears that the bearing outer is profiled as a flat bottomed V (\_/), and some bearings are still available but a lot list the bearings as unavailable. Prices that I saw on site ranged from $20 to $53 US peer bearing.

    Some, but not all of the units shown appear to have a removable end plate on the arm, so the entire carriage and yoke can be rolled forward and off the track. They also appear to have some bearings mounted with eccentric shoulder bolts to adjust clearances etc.
    I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    1,220

    Default

    OK. I have.pulled the saw down enough to get to the carriage bearings. Was smart enough to take photos as I went along.
    The hard part was not to smash and bash away. As this saw has the digital read-out system and I have no manual I was going very carefully.
    Got it pulled.down and confirmed the grooved bearings had seized and the carriage fixed bearings need replacing. I am confident that the grooved bearings are just seized due to grease drying out and can be cleaned and re-greased and be OK to use again. The fixed bearings are a common size and I'll replace.them.
    Freed the fixed bearings using judicious heat and WD40 to loosen the mounting bolts.
    Found replacements online for the grooved bearings and will try local bearing supplies before ordering o'seas.
    I am relieved that there is virtually no wear on the tracks and that after some more fiddling I can bring this saw back to as new.
    Photos and.more to follow.
    Lyle

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    1,220

    Default

    I have bought replacement bearings for the side rollers. They were a common size.
    But no luck buying the grooved roller bearings.
    So I have cleaned them up. After a loooong soak in turps etc I then heated them up an drizzled in some sewing machine oil. then worked them until they ran smooth again. I am going to repeat the process and see what they are like then. How to re-grease them, I have no idea. Will they need it? They don't run fast, just as fast as the hand draws the carriage. They aren't exposed to a lot of dust etc. So maybe the clean and oil will be enough.
    Some photos.

    Attachment 319642Attachment 319643Attachment 319644Attachment 319645Attachment 319646Attachment 319647Attachment 319648

Similar Threads

  1. Plastic "Bung Taps" - I want to "click" a garden hose onto the end of one...?
    By Batpig in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORK
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 7th May 2017, 04:05 PM
  2. Why do so many "private" eBay sellers only offer "local pickup"?...
    By Batpig in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORK
    Replies: 27
    Last Post: 16th July 2016, 08:57 PM
  3. eBay: How long can you "Save" the "Draft"-listing of an item you want to sell?...
    By Batpig in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORK
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 22nd January 2011, 06:04 PM
  4. Replies: 10
    Last Post: 31st August 2009, 01:29 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •