Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    21

    Default Combined jointer/thicknesser advice

    I've done a major shop reorganisation, basically to try to convince myself that I've got room for a jointer.

    Having achieved this major step, now I have the job of watching 1000 Youtube videos and reading reviews to try to make a decision!

    I currently have an old Hare & Forbes T13S thicknesser (with a pseudo helical head) that I use all the time. It has been great but will need to go to make room for a combined unit.

    My list of wants as a hobby enthusiast looking to make better furniture and projects with a desire to buy something that I'll be able to use for the next 10-15 years.
    - 300mm capacity
    - Helical head
    - Simple changeover
    - Reasonable bed length (yes I'm confused on what "reasonable" should be) to enable jointing boards up to say 1.8m
    - Budget around $4k but somewhat elastic (buy once...)
    - I have both 15amp and 3phase in my workshop

    Options:
    - Carbatec
    - Sherwood
    - Hammer
    - Jet
    - Woodman
    - Leda
    - Rikon

    Most seem to be basically the same design and I'm assuming quite a few of them are made in the same factory in China. Some seem to have a much easier guard removal for changing modes.

    So my questions from those with experience with these beasts:

    1. What features distinguish these units?
    2. Any to avoid?
    3. Minimum bed length for jointing?
    4. Is helical head a must?
    5. Any changeover gripes/hassles to look out for?

    Thanks for any advice!

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    999

    Default

    1... I cant tell the differences between these models. probably all the same but when it comes to machines, you pay what you get. and if you really want something you will have to pay a premium for it
    2... Avoid light machine.
    3... depends on what you make... minimum 1.8m
    4... Helical? I choose helical/spiral because its quiet, if noise is not an issue, Tersa can be considered, My previous model has Tersa and the knife changing is uber-fast, no setting required. . go traditional if you dont mind spending time setting up the knives on the cutter block...
    5... dont know much about these machines. buy something reputable, do your research...

    I am going through the same process as well. but I am going from TP to separates, because the bed length on my TP combo (Felder AD951) is only 2250mm.
    SCM L'Invincibile si X, SCM L'Invincibile S7, SCM TI 145EP, SCM Sandya Win 630, Masterwood OMB1V, Meber 600, Delta RJ42, Nederman S750, Chicago Pneumatics CPRS10500, Ceccato CDX12



  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Thanks Albert.

    Out of interest what combo TP do you have at the moment?

    This used Sicar caught my eye but has traditional knives and was hoping for something that could be moved in a pinch - this one looks like an absolute battleship!
    Used sicar FS 41 Planer Thicknesser Combi in AIRPORT WEST, VIC

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    999

    Default

    this is my current TP combo...

    Felder AD951.

    IMG_4142.jpg

    The Sicar you posted looks very grunty. made in Italy. easily converted to single phase if needed.
    SCM L'Invincibile si X, SCM L'Invincibile S7, SCM TI 145EP, SCM Sandya Win 630, Masterwood OMB1V, Meber 600, Delta RJ42, Nederman S750, Chicago Pneumatics CPRS10500, Ceccato CDX12



  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Sapphire Coast NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    434

    Default

    can’t compare different machines but i have had a hammer a3/31 for several years …. i have the standard blades which perform well and are dead simple to change (they are also double sided so you turn them around before you need to replace them)

    noise is not an issue for me so i didn’t convert to a helical head when they came out

    changing over is pretty simple taking a few minutes …. i always check for square when changing to planer and it always just needs a nudge to set it square

    i got the digital height gauge and consider that money (from memory about $50 at the time) extremely well spent …. i also got an extension table which i have set up on the outfeed of the thicknesser …. i didn’t get the mobility thing because i had one with the bandsaw which i considered next to useless .. i bought a heavy duty mobile base from timbecon instead


    i had some difficulty getting it set up originally but with phone and email help from felder managed it eventually…. they were quite happy to be helpful .. had i been closer i would have paid to get them to come out to help

    i find it an excellent robust machine that performs very well

    regards david

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    In between houses
    Posts
    1,784

    Default

    I had the Carbatec one for a job here on the river and it was great. Needed a bit of tuning up to get tge fence sorted, ( it was fine from the shop, but I’m fussy) 45 seconds to change modes, enough power(just) and helical head gives a good finish. I’d rate it 8/10. Good value for what it cost.
    the Italian machine you’ve seen at JC Walsh is a tank, solid, grunty machine, but extremely heavy, probably 400 kgs. nothing wrong with straight knives if they are kept sharp, I’ve used them for 45 years and never had an issue. They are a bit noisier but it’s not like you’ll be planing timber 8 hours a day 5 days a week.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,211

    Default

    I can’t post a link but there’s a Wadkin Bursgreen 12” under and over down the coast on Gumtree.
    For your $4k you could buy it and fit a spiral head.
    It is 3 phase and they do run 2 motors.
    H.
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Thanks. Looks like a real beast. Spoke to the guy and apparently has no dust extraction so that's kind of a dealbreaker for me. I've seen what my little thicknesser does when blocked and I'm cleaning up for days!

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,831

    Default

    I have had a Hammer A3-31 for several years. Spiral helix blades, digital gauge. Changes over take 1 minute. Carbide inserts last for years and years.



    However, you are unlikely to find one under $4K, unless second-hand. They are ultra reliable and do not come up often. If one does, grab it!

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    21

    Default

    So are you keeping your Felder or moving it on? Looks like it's in new condition. I'm sure even used it's out of my budget but one can dream...

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Thanks Derek. I heard nothing but good stuff about the Hammer.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,211

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bluenose View Post
    Thanks. Looks like a real beast. Spoke to the guy and apparently has no dust extraction so that's kind of a dealbreaker for me. I've seen what my little thicknesser does when blocked and I'm cleaning up for days!
    A box wot sits on top whilst thicknessing and underneath whilst jointing works quite well.
    Made of ply with some basic shape inside to direct the chips to 100mm or bigger ducting.

    I had this set up on an 18” Wadkin Bursgreen U/O and it worked ok.
    If you did convert it to spiral cutterhead the chips are smaller from what I’ve read.

    It might be worth taking a close look at the extraction set up on the Hammer etc I think they are basically a fancy box set up.
    H.
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

Similar Threads

  1. Jointer, Planer, Thicknesser Advice
    By TobyH in forum JOINTERS, MOULDERS, THICKNESSERS, ETC
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 29th May 2020, 11:13 AM
  2. Jointer/thicknesser advice
    By benji79 in forum JOINTERS, MOULDERS, THICKNESSERS, ETC
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 12th May 2017, 08:31 AM
  3. Looking for advice on jointer thicknesser combo
    By stevo81 in forum JOINTERS, MOULDERS, THICKNESSERS, ETC
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 14th December 2016, 12:11 AM
  4. Advice required thicknesser planner or jointer
    By peason in forum JOINTERS, MOULDERS, THICKNESSERS, ETC
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 4th July 2015, 09:33 PM
  5. Thicknesser and jointer advice please
    By bellyup in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 3rd December 2011, 10:34 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •