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  1. #1
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    Default What is the minimum lengh that one can put through a 15" thicknesser

    Have just received a new carbatec thicknesser, and a friend wants me to thin down a clock face that has been given to her by a taswegian. Beautiful Huon pine. My worry is that it may not be long enough to go through the machine. It is about 7" in diam. and about 2" thick, she wants it down to about 1 1/4".
    I intend to try a piece of ordinary pine first, but don't want to stuff anything up on my first pass.
    Any help appreciated.
    Tony.

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  3. #2
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    Default

    I wouldn't try feeding it through as is. A recipe for disaster I reckon.

    How about routing a circle the diameter of the piece into a longer board the same thickness or some laminated toghether pieces of MDF?

    Then plane that down to your desired thickness?

  4. #3
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    Tony,


    I would build a cradle to do this. Cut a circle out of a couple of pieces of framing off cuts and glue them to a chipboard or MDF base. Insert the clock face in the cradle and plane the lot down to the thickness you want.

    I see that Craig beat me, great minds think alike.

    Peter.
    Last edited by Sturdee; 22nd March 2005 at 06:43 PM. Reason: Taking note of Craig's post.

  5. #4
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    Thankyou. Can understand and will do. BUT that does not answer the question.

    What is the minimum length? ie how long should one make the cradle? 1', 2' 18"

    Tony.

  6. #5
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    The minimum length is the distance between the two rollers. IE the wood being fed through must be longer than the distance between infeed and outfeed rollers.

    beejay1

    http://community.webshots.com/user/eunos9

  7. #6
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    I don't own a thicknesser so take this for what it's worth, but...

    I reckon I read somewhere that you can thickness pieces in a carrier "sled" that are shorter than the gap between the in & outfeed rollers by attaching a couple of longer pieces to the sled either side of your short workpiece. These get thicknessed along with your workpiece, but give the rollers something to run on. This all assumes that you secure the workpiece and the longer pieces securely to the sled somehow, hotmelt glue maybe?


    Cheers.....Sean, not as thicknessed as some


    The beatings will continue until morale improves.

  8. #7
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    Feb 2003
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    Default

    I wouldn't use a thicknesser unless you are prepared to lose the clock in case something doesn't work properly.
    Use a router sled and take it down with that.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  9. #8
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    Why not (ok you don't own one!) use a band saw??

    Crumbs you are wasting 3/4" of in your own words" beautiful Huon Pine!!!" :eek: :eek: :eek:

    I'm sure someone is handy to you and could assist!!

    That way you'll only have to clean up the face not convert it to woodchip.

    (Don't do it in the thicknesser, it's not just the timber you can bugger up!!)

    Cheers,

    P

  10. #9
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    Or turn to the dark side
    ...shudder....
    use a handsaw , its only 7"
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by echnidna
    Or turn to the dark side
    ...shudder....
    use a handsaw , its only 7"
    :eek: :eek: :eek:

    In fact you could do it with a hack saw, just have to come from both sides!!



    P (off to sharpen a saw right now!!)

  12. #11
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    Default

    Draw the sawmark right around the sides of the timber.
    Hold it in the vice so that you can see 2 sides at once.
    Cut to the waste side of the line then put it in the vice upside down and cut again.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

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