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  1. #1
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    Default Replacing Segment in Hammer Silent Power Head

    I need to turn a damaged cutter on my A3-31 Hammer combination machine with silent head due to it having a collision with a screw. Has anyone got the correct torque figures to tighten the segment down with? I could ask Felder on Monday morning but I thought I might see if anyone here has the correct figure to allow me to do it before then.
    CHRIS

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  3. #2
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    Is it on the parts list?

    They make folding, swiss army knife kinda things that have full torx sets in them. Not expensive and you're likely to get the right size if it's anything even remotely common. I think they're around $15-25 at any hardware store.

    Cheers,
    Luke

  4. #3
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    Luke, I have the tools, I just need the correct torque figure for the retaining screw.
    CHRIS

  5. #4
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    Tight, Chris, tight....
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

  6. #5
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    Hi Joe, the reason I ask is somewhere in the dimness of my brain the torque figure actually makes a difference but Brett (FF) did his by impact driver so now I am not sure. I was given no literature concerning the silent head when I received the machine so I will have to be patient and ask on Monday.
    CHRIS

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    Brett (FF) did his by impact driver so now I am not sure.
    Not quite Chris - I used a drill with a clutch. Started at torque position #1 and worked my way up to #5 to see what it took to undo the screw, then used the same setting to tighten back up. So I know that #5 for that particular drill is pretty damn close to the right torque setting, assuming the jumps in torque between 4-5 and 5-6 aren't enormous.

    Only problem is I've forgotten which drill it was
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post

    Only problem is I've forgotten which drill it was
    Old age will do that to a person.
    CHRIS

  9. #8
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    I just used a screwdriver. Loosened the chipped bit, turned it, and tightened it down until it looked like all the others. No problem.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  10. #9
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    A search of metric thread torques should get you the info you need. I would be very surprised to discover the torque is far off the standard.

    Pete

  11. #10
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    Derek, were the cutters loose enough for a screwdriver? The cutters on mine are very tight but I am starting to agree that the torque seems not to be really important and does not impact the finish of the board in light of yours and Brett's experience. I was only operating on vague memory and I will get back with Felder's answer tomorrow.
    CHRIS

  12. #11
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    Never used a torque wrench on the Shelix heads at work. 3-4 clunks with an impact driver does the job, but it really doesn't matter; even hand-tight is plenty.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    Derek, were the cutters loose enough for a screwdriver? The cutters on mine are very tight but I am starting to agree that the torque seems not to be really important and does not impact the finish of the board in light of yours and Brett's experience. I was only operating on vague memory and I will get back with Felder's answer tomorrow.
    Chris, I discovered a chipped corner on one of the bits about a week after the machine was used for the first time. So heat, dirt and resins had not had a chance to make the job harder. I vaguely recall (it was a few years ago now) that it required some effort to loosen, but re- seating the bit was not difficult. I just tightened it up as much as I could by hand. I am still on the same faces, and not seen any signs of the bit being mispositioned.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  14. #13
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    Sorry, I misunderstood the question.

    I am going to buy that machine soon and I recently watched the video about the Silent Power head and the guy in the video, which was produced by Felder and was meant to be marketing for the machine, showed it done by hand in about ten seconds.

    Cheers,
    Luke

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    Never used a torque wrench on the Shelix heads at work. 3-4 clunks with an impact driver does the job, but it really doesn't matter; even hand-tight is plenty.
    You just gave me an idea so I went too the Shelix website and found this....

    When installing new insert knives, let the screw head guide the insert into its proper position. The torque required is 40 to 45 inch/pound. To ensure a proper torque, the use of a torque screwdriver or torque wrench is recommended

    That torque figure is not very tight at all.
    CHRIS

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luke Maddux View Post
    Sorry, I misunderstood the question.

    I am going to buy that machine soon and I recently watched the video about the Silent Power head and the guy in the video, which was produced by Felder and was meant to be marketing for the machine, showed it done by hand in about ten seconds.

    Cheers,
    Luke
    Luke, you won't regret buying one but make sure you get the in handle height instrument, I can't emphasis enough how accurate it is, Derek or Brett would agree on that. I saw the same video but Harry the presenter never detailed how tight to do it which surprised me.
    CHRIS

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