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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    665

    Default Robland X 31 Feed Tables Co Planar?

    Any tips for getting the in feed and out feed jointer tables co planar with each other lengthwise?

    At this stage I have the tables planar with each other side to side and even with the planer knives set in the head using the coved alloy template for achieving that.

    The problem that I appear to have (using a straight edge to diagnose this), is that either or both of the two tables are slightly high at the outer end/s.

    In other words - where the tables meet the planer head in the middle - my table or tables are low...

    "V" this is an exaggeration of the situation I have along both tables - with the planer head at the bottom of the "V".

    When the planer knife is rotated out of the way and the trailing and leading edge of each table brought up to level with each other with the height adjusters, a straight edge laid along both tables is about a millimeter and a fraction high in the center where the tables meet and resting on the far end of each table.

    In order to get timber to plane across the head it requires downwards pressure to get the timber to deflect downwards - to conform with the tables at present, and if I do this : -

    1. It's dangerous to have to apply excessive pressure downwards with ones hand anywhere near the planer head.

    2. When you do, all you achieve is to create a convex edge to the timber - not a straight edge as is desired.

    For the life of me I cannot ascertain how one gets the table end/s to raise or fall to become co planar with each other.

    I do see adjustment on the bolts that support the table when closed and also the locking bolt in the center of the two table support is also adjustable.

    However altering these would only raise or lower that side of the table, and the opposite 'pivot - hinge' side I don't see any obvious adjustment - those fixing bolts have star washers and appear to fix direct into solid welded bar stock support frame inside - so non adjustable up or down that I can see.

    I've tested the out feed table height and set it to be exact to the cutting height of the planer knives so it's not a out-feed table setting too low that's causing the convex edge to planed timber. Over a couple meters length of timber I am a millimeter or more convex of straight. The timber riding up the ramped out feed table buries the heel (trailing end) of the timber into the planer head removing excess material and leaving me with a boomerang rather than a straight edge.

    Anyone have any wise words of wisdom?

    I've ensured the contact points for the tables when closed are clean so it's not dust or grime under them altering the heights.

    The manual only describes normal operational adjustments of raising or lowering the tables for how much material is removed on each pass.

    Nothing that I could see about setting the tables up to be co planar with each other. No doubt someone here has walked this particular rice paper trail ahead of this lil grasshopper and knows how to snatch the pebble from the masters hand!.

    Many thanks in advance guys.

    Cheers!

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    53
    Posts
    856

    Default

    Hi there is a robland x31 users group on yahoo groups, it might be a could place to post your question if you have no luck on this forum :


    RoblandX-31 : For those interested in the Robland X-31




    good luck



    joez

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    665

    Default Yeah

    Yes Thanks Joez,

    I'm already a member and the answer just came thru.

    For anyone else with an X31 who gets into this bind...

    Draft x31 Set Up Instructions Index

    Clear as mud.

    Now I may need to call upon the expertise of BobL, because I don't possess the required dial calipers and metal bases etc to do this setup correctly on my own.

    Cheers!

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
    Posts
    3,559

    Default

    Shann, its quite easy to fix. This is how I did it with mine.
    Long metal straight edge full length both tables.
    Loosen highest connecting screw on hinge brackets only enough to get movement when tapped with soft hammer.
    Tap hinge into position.
    Check under straight edge with thin piece of paper as a feeler gauge.
    When paper wont go between straight edge and table surface at both heel and toe of each table your all good.
    Tighten off hinge bolts.

    You will probably find some peanut has lifted the machine using the tables. Normally, the problem is opposite to yours ie the table ends have sagged, particularly when jointing heavy hardwoods.
    Hope this helps.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    665

    Default It did, help.

    It certainly did help... and now i have ceased boomerang manufacture and progressed to straight wood for a change!

    I had to go buy a fat max level straight edge about 1800 long, first - and then it was getting the tables co planar and adjusted level with the knives in the jointer head etc, - lots of adjusting the stops and lock down to correct all of yesterdays messing around blind adjustments.

    Ran a piece of pine thru and straight as a die!

    Truthfully - I was the peanut caused the table to be out of alignment.... long story....

    When I bought the machine it's owner loaded it into the trailer for me with his forklift.

    No such luxury here at home tho... so I backed the trailer into the shed and with the machine strapped securely over the axle for balance, I lifted it off the tow bar and gently down onto the concrete at the rear... (You can see where I am headed here) .

    So by judiciously loosening one of the 3 ratchett straps at a time and allowing the machine on its timber base with castors.... to roll backwards down slope a few inches at a time - I kept rotating between straps to loosen and others to catch it a few inches further along to stop it getting a head of steam up and getting away...I walked it down the trailer until i had the first pair of castors onto the concrete.

    I then made the mistake of getting my ambitions and capabilities confused...(working alone) and tried to walk it out of the trailer onto level on the concrete and thats when I found out the machine at 450 kilos was about 3 times my heft and slowly overbalanced with me trying to counterweight it to little effect.

    It only traveled about 18inched until the end of the table contacted the concrete softly enough not to leave any damage to concrete or machine luckily BUT I suspect this is when the out feed table hinge adjustment was thrown out / upwards.

    So it took little to tap it back down today when I loosened one nut and gave it a little love tap with a hammer and piece of jarrah hardwood to cushion the blow.

    All is good to go now... I can make wood again...finally (after about a 7 year hiatus).

    Tomorrow I will knock up a pine toe rail for a laundry unit for the sparky who connected my 3 phase shed power as part of the pay back / labor swap barter system we agreed on.

    It's good to actually be able to do stuff now...
    I managed to get a plug to suit my outlet for the new to me old 3 phase compressor and fit that, and I now have air as well
    Even managed to put some threrad tape in a few nut and tails so it holds pressure and doesn't leak down all the time...
    Found some nails for the air nailer I bought on the weekend.
    Did a little glue repair to the leg of mutton guard on the jointer, so it will be safe to use again...
    I had an all round productive day when all said an done... and am another step closer to being productive on a daily basis I hope.

    Tis all part of my journey I keep telling myself.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
    Posts
    3,559

    Default

    I just use a piece of aluminium sliding glass door extrusion for a straight edge. The four bits of paper,one under the straight edge at heel and toe of each table speeds the process up a lot. Its just a matter of checking each bit of paper for loosness as you make the adjustments. Once all pieces show resistance you are there.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    665

    Default Wished I'd read that yesterday

    Wished I'd read that yesterday - about the paper trick - there was a LOT of squinting and putting my glasses on and off - to try and get the tables co planar bye sighting daylight under that yellow devil level.

    I may work my way thru it again tho - just for slight fine tuning.... I think I am well past 95% of the way there but it could possibly be better yet, there's very slight movement when the locking levers are engaged that moves the tables ever so slightly diagonally it seems.

    It's a fiddly process, no question about it.

    I'm just stoked that straight timber comes off it now... that much is a big relief - today I test out the thicknesser... just have to swipe the wife's paraffin candles to lube the tables without her noticing. She always goes off tap when there's a power outage at night, and she can't find all the candles she keeps stashed for just such a emergency situation..... she mumbles to herself about "I don't know why they just keep vanishing" etc - & I haven't the heart to tell her they lube up the thicknesser table so well. Same with her Johnstons floor wax tin - that finds it's way to my workshop to wax the jointer tables... but I have to keep it hidden, or if she see's it she would scalp me...

    She wants to go see one of them clair voyant peoples down at the local markets, coz she thinks we have a malevolent spirit entity inhabiting the house, one with kleptomaniac tendencies, who pinches all her stuff just to make her life a misery...and I just nod my head knowingly and say "yes dear" and say "why don't your pilot your broom down there for a visit".

    If she ever finds half her crap I have commandeered for up in the shed, I'm a dead man walking.

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