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18th March 2014, 04:15 PM #16Senior Member
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Firstly, a bit of courtesy would be nice.
To answer your question, I didnt really know what to expect. I spoke to the blokes at Carbatec, and they told me it was capable of doing the job, as long as I took my time and didnt overload the machine. Its my fault that I didnt ask about blades, and I really didnt know what to expect. I had no idea that grit could be so destructive to the blades. To be realistic, I expected more than 25 lineal metres before the blades were stuffed, especially because it is only 105mm wide, and I am taking off 3-4mm all up, hence the question here. It comes with a spare set, so I was hoping to get away with maybe using two sets before sharpening them.
Its all a great learning curve for me, and all part of the fun of having a new machine, even if it does rank as a "toy".
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18th March 2014, 04:16 PM #17Senior Member
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18th March 2014, 04:52 PM #18Woodworker
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18th March 2014, 05:18 PM #19
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18th March 2014, 05:19 PM #20
Check if the blades are double sided.
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18th March 2014, 05:45 PM #21Senior Member
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18th March 2014, 05:47 PM #22Senior Member
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18th March 2014, 06:13 PM #23Taking a break
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18th March 2014, 06:14 PM #24
Mr Spelunx, just a couple of thoughts.....when you get into changing the blades, just check to see how tight the bolts are that secure the blades. They obviously have to be tight (but not using a pipe on the spanner) but I was wondering if from new, out of the factory were they tight enough? Second thing (I know this is bloody obvious) are the blades facing the right way? I would hope that they are but you never know...
I used to have an ELU under and over Thicknesser/Jointer. It handled pine with no problem as long as it wasn't over about 100mm wide. If I put 100mm of Hardwood in it even with a light cut I had to use all my strength to pull the timber out of the thing and this is with power feed! Yep regular pain in the ar**. I ended up buying a 1950s model 12" with 3 Hp 3Ph motor. It is happy to suck in any width, any species and just asks for more. Horses for courses.
Personally I wouldn't use Tungsten blades I much prefer steel so I can sharpen/grind them myself with an 8" bench grinder. It means that on a Saturday afternoon when the Saw Doctor is well and truly shut for the weekend and you have only a few boards to plane up and you inevitably hit an embedded object you can wizz out the blades run them over the grinder and you are back in business in about an hour.
Well that's my thinking anyway.
Just another hint - make sure both blades are parallel to the bed of the thicknesser and that they both protrude the same amount.Just do it!
Kind regards Rod
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18th March 2014, 06:27 PM #25Taking a break
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3hp? Just a another toy
But seriously, machines of that vintage are built like tanks and are well worth looking at. It might take a bit of adjusting to get it running smoothly, but I guarantee it'll be better than anything you can buy new.
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18th March 2014, 06:34 PM #26Senior Member
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Cheers for that.... I will definately check that. If the blades were loose, they would slowly retract into the cylinder, wouldnt they? I will get the blade setter jig out and check to see they are protruding enough.
I am sure they are in the correct way, as it was cutting beautifully smooth up until recently.
Thanks for your thoughts re: tungston. I reckon I might buy one pair, as then I will have two pair of SS, and one Tungston. After this big job is over, it will just be small workshop stuff I need it for.
Jayson
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18th March 2014, 06:40 PM #27
But seriously, machines of that vintage are built like tanks and are well worth looking at. It might take a bit of adjusting to get it running smoothly, but I guarantee it'll be better than anything you can buy new.[/QUOTE]
This old dear was an Ebay purchase. Pics only. Apparently it came from a boat builder (so I am led to believe)
I got it freighted to town then I bought it home on my trailer. I gave it a clean (vacuum and rag) "dusting may be a better adjective. Checked that all the bolts were tight checked the blades for alignment after I ground them, turned it on and its been going now for a couple of years and is quite happy in its new country home.. I have joined it to the dust extractor set up and I am a happy camper. Its play mate is a LW Barker Jointer from the same era. There is no substitute for heavy cast iron!! The 2, including freight,were just over $1000 . After the struggle with the ELU, I wanted some thing with a bit of grunt and ease of use.Just do it!
Kind regards Rod
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18th March 2014, 06:59 PM #28
To answer the original question When to sharpen Thicknesser blades?
When they are not cutting well. Yeh ambiguous, open ended.....there is so many variables. It even comes down to how long you are prepared to let the machine work and how tolerent you are to the amount of smoke it will create. Truly though, its better to change them if only dull because its better for the machine and you will have a consistent level of quality of finished boards from it. I remember that I fitted a freshly sharpened Tungsten Blade to my bench saw. A mate and I were doing up a small caravan at the time. The mate had picked up cheap some floor vinyl from an ambulance. It was tough to cut with a stanley knife so I used the 10" bench saw.....BAD mistake. To make the vinyl ware well, it had little shards of stainless steel spread through it. The vinyl was about 3mm thick but it took the edge off the Tungsten in 10 minutes. Yeh, I was not happyJust do it!
Kind regards Rod
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18th March 2014, 09:29 PM #29GOLD MEMBER
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If you have a reasonable table saw, I would reduce the thickness down as much as you can, using a good featherboard to ensure good contact with the fence over the whole length of the board. You will probably have to put the board through the saw in two passes, (depth of cut limitations) and try to get down to less than a millimetre to be taken off with the thicknesser. It might be worth while getting a cheap TCT blade for the tablesaw from Bunnings to save your good blades from the embedded grit. Alternatively, have a go with the electric planner, checking often that you don't get too close to your eventual thickness. You might get away with sharpening the electric planner blades yourself if need be.
Either way, the cost to resharpen these blades would be cheaper than getting your thicknesser blades sharpened.
A good blast with a high pressure water hose at a low angle as others have suggested should be your first step.
Good luck with it.
Alan...
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18th March 2014, 09:39 PM #30SENIOR MEMBER
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- South Africa
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