Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 38
-
17th March 2014, 11:02 AM #1Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
- Location
- Western Australia
- Posts
- 306
How often to sharpen blades on thicknesser?
Hey everyone,
I have never had a thicknesser before, and bought a Jet JET-JWP12 last year. I havent really used it much up until now. I have started putting through some 105mm Jarrah reeded decking.
I have done about 25 lineal metres, and filled one bag of the dust extractor, roughly 6 hours of operation, over a few weekends.
The machine is vibrating really badly under load, and on the weekend, after about 20 minutes of operation, the overload switch kicked in. So much so that the screws at the top have loosened, and I need to hold the height winder handle in place as the timber goes through.
I have been really taking my time with the planing, taking off about 0.25 to .5 mm at a time.
Before I take it back to the shop, I thought I might check in here to see if it could be the blades? Is there a rough guideline of when the blades need to be changed? ie hours of operation? amount of dust bags emptied?
Cheers
-
17th March 2014 11:02 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
17th March 2014, 11:32 AM #2.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,795
Humm, even if you pressure wash them they could still contain grit in the reeding.
I have been really taking my time with the planing, taking off about 0.25 to .5 mm at a time.
Before I take it back to the shop, I thought I might check in here to see if it could be the blades? Is there a rough guideline of when the blades need to be changed? ie hours of operation? amount of dust bags emptied?
Even some new timber can still do some damage. Trees growing in a water stress situation can pull up dissolved silica which precipitates out and takes the edge of blades.
Unless there is a chip taken out of a blade a vibrating machine doesn't sound like blunt blades. It could be that one of the blades has moved? Does it vibrate only while cutting or just sitting there?
-
17th March 2014, 07:22 PM #3Taking a break
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 34
- Posts
- 6,127
I do think it's time for a sharpen, but Bob's advice is pretty much spot on - especially about taking more off per pass.
It amazes me how many people think (due to nobody telling them otherwise) that by taking 10 passes at 0.5mm they're putting less wear than 5 passes at 1mm. Unless your blades are RAZOR sharp (which they won't be after the first few passes), they won't actually cut such small increments; they'll just rub the surface and go blunt even faster. If you've ever tried to take an ultra-fine cut using a hand plane with a blunt blade you'll understand what I mean. If you can't hear the motor slow down a bit when using machines, you're not using them properly. End rant.
-
17th March 2014, 07:25 PM #4Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
- Location
- Western Australia
- Posts
- 306
0.25mm is pretty much all I can take off, more than that and it blows the overload fuse.
I checked for obvious chips out of the blades, or stuff stuck in the blades, but there was nothing there. I don't really want to change the blades, until a technician looks at it.
It is cutting evenly across the full width, i put a wide piece of pine through, and it was an even cut across the width. It only vibrates while cutting.
-
17th March 2014, 07:33 PM #5Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
- Location
- Western Australia
- Posts
- 306
So you reckon that it might be worth putting the new blades in, and seeing if the vibrations stop? I am all for taking more per cut, but between the machine vibrating itself loose, and the crank-handle shaking so much it forces itself back a quarter turn, I don't want to push it any further.
-
17th March 2014, 07:48 PM #6Taking a break
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 34
- Posts
- 6,127
-
17th March 2014, 08:01 PM #7Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
- Location
- Western Australia
- Posts
- 306
I hope you aren't correct! I have over 200 metres to get through..... I got told one set of blades would do that.....
i reckon a good plan sounds like to change the blades over, see if that makes a difference, and then take it back to the workshop, if it doesn't make a difference.
-
17th March 2014, 08:41 PM #8Taking a break
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 34
- Posts
- 6,127
200m on one set of blades? Tell him he's dreamin'
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you haven't got a snowball's chance
Whoever told you that either has no idea about machining or was just plain lying.
If they were carbide tipped blades you'd get it, but not steel unless you can run it in just one or two passes or your machine has enough grunt to run blunt knives (unfortunately, yours doesn't)
-
18th March 2014, 10:04 AM #9Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
- Location
- Western Australia
- Posts
- 306
-
18th March 2014, 11:37 AM #10.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,795
How wide are these boards - I'm thinking 70 mm?
If the motor is cutting out at that width the blades must be very blunt.
If it vibrates only when cutting it could still be the blade position, one might be further out than the other one.
Washing tip. It's better to wash at a low angle, at a high angle the grit can be driven further into cracks etc.
-
18th March 2014, 11:59 AM #11Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
- Location
- Western Australia
- Posts
- 306
They are 105mm.
I guess the only way to establish if the blades are the problem, is to swap them with the new ones I have. Am I right in being surprised at how quickly they blunted though? I imagine there is a bit of grit on the boards, but its not like they are sitting on the ground, and I have been brushing them before I put them through the first time.
-
18th March 2014, 12:52 PM #12.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,795
-
18th March 2014, 02:50 PM #13Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
- Location
- Western Australia
- Posts
- 306
Cheers.... I didnt realise it would make such a difference.
My plan now is to swap over the blades, and run through a few pieces on the almost-completed stuff I have. If it doesnt vibrate or stall, I know it is the blades causing the problem.
If the blades are causing the issue, I dont want to use a set of blades every 20 lineal metres!
So I am thinking I might get out my electric plane, and take off 2-3mm with this, and then finish them in the thicknesser.
The other idea is run them through the Table Saw, take off 3mm, and then finish them off with the thicknesser.
I think the table saw could be easier, as some of the lengths are 5 metres, so it will be difficult to keep it flat over that length for the electric plane.
What do you reckon?
-
18th March 2014, 03:30 PM #14.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,795
-
18th March 2014, 03:31 PM #15GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Aug 2004
- Location
- Perth WA
- Posts
- 2,035
The machine is only a toy so what do you expect?
Experienced in removing the tree from the furniture
Similar Threads
-
Who can sharpen my Chisels / Plane blades in Canberra?
By delbs in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 28Last Post: 1st June 2013, 10:33 PM -
6" jointer blades, sharpen or replace
By 3 toed sloth in forum SHARPENINGReplies: 6Last Post: 26th April 2012, 11:37 PM -
Nobody can sharpen my 3/8" jointer blades - what to do?
By colburge in forum SHARPENINGReplies: 27Last Post: 28th March 2012, 07:58 PM -
thicknesser blades to sharpen
By EMistral in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 5Last Post: 3rd April 2007, 10:41 AM -
Rotary saw blades: sharpen or replace
By rsser in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 8Last Post: 26th June 2005, 07:23 PM