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30th June 2017, 11:06 AM #31Taking a break
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Derek, it actually does help; we do it at work all the time for thin stock
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30th June 2017 11:06 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th June 2017, 11:27 AM #32Deceased
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- May 2008
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- Australia
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- 2,357
I used the same approach on my older Sherwood lunchbox thicknesser. It helped reduce the depth of snipe but never came close to eliminating it. This new machine is leaving little sign of snipe on Jarrah and Merbau (haven't trialed softwoods). That is straight out of the box, with no attempt made to alter the infeed and outfeed table heights. The only minor fault I picked up before turning this new machine on, was a small end chip on the cutting edge of 2 out of 26 blades. If they become a later problem, I will switch those blades around to a fresh cutting edge. I also purchased 12 new replacement blades for this machine. All of them look to be in perfect condition.
Stewie;
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30th June 2017, 12:11 PM #33
Thanks Derek....in my experience snipe is something that is not constant. By that I mean that you can run a succession of boards through the machine. Out of a handful of boards snipe may only affect 2. Then the next bunch you put through the snipe may be on most. The way past the problem is make sure the timber is over length so you can remove the affected snipe
Can I say in this opportunity, that I admire your work!!! Its always a pleasure to see your creationsJust do it!
Kind regards Rod
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30th June 2017, 03:30 PM #34Deceased
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- May 2008
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- Australia
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- 2,357
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1st July 2017, 08:10 PM #35Deceased
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- Australia
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Can anyone guess the type of wooden plane I am making.!!! What timber am I using for the main stock.!!!
Stewie;
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1st July 2017, 10:05 PM #36GOLD MEMBER
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- Oct 2014
- Location
- Caroline Springs, VIC
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- 1,645
I'll take a guess. You are making a stock standard bench plane using a veritas wooden plane kit made from a laminated plane stock of pinus radiata
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1st July 2017, 10:11 PM #37Deceased
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- May 2008
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- Australia
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- 2,357
No cigar for that effort Kuffy.
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1st July 2017, 10:45 PM #38
I'll hazard a guess at a fillister or rebate plane? No idea of the timber species though.
Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
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1st July 2017, 10:56 PM #39Deceased
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- May 2008
- Location
- Australia
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- 2,357
On the money Chief Tiff. Moving Fillister Plane. The timber species is Tiger Myrtle. Tasmanian Tiger Myrtle - Highly Prized & Incredibly Rare Available in Slabs, Boards & Much more
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2nd July 2017, 01:07 AM #40
I have to ask, why have you posted about the machine.
I'm at post #20 and I'm yet to read anything from Planemaker that can't be found in the sales brochure.
Now I have no objection to "this is my new toy" type of posts, but this thread was pretending to be some sort of reviewregards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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2nd July 2017, 12:58 PM #41Woodworking mechanic
- Join Date
- Jan 2014
- Location
- Sydney Upper North Shore
- Posts
- 4,470
Shouldn't a hand plane build be under "hand tools - unpowered" rather than "jointers, moulders, thicknesser etc" so it's easier for people to search for later?
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2nd July 2017, 02:39 PM #42
Hi Stewie
can you please explain the bit I've bolded how does a segmented cutter head reduce snipe?
also, in your opening post you appear to have posed a picture of the machine showing it's segmented knives along with two boxes of knives.
Can you please comment on how easy it was to install the knives given that each knife requires two bolts.
are the knives double sided?
and I would appreciate comments on the dust extraction. In the pic you posted of a stick being planed by the machine, there doesn't appear to be any chips coming out of the dust port.
I'm sure others with a possible interest in purchasing the machine would also be interested.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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4th July 2017, 04:58 PM #43Deceased
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- May 2008
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- Australia
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- 2,357
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5th July 2017, 07:08 AM #44Senior Member
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- May 2009
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- NSW
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- 489
Just to get back to the item at the start of the thread and without diversions to snipe and/or whatever......How good is this thicknesser? Does it work as advertised? How cheap or expensive are the replacement cutters and how long do they last when thicknessing Oz. Hardwood? Snipe is a common problem with many thicknessers, I allow for it, leaving the board over-length when I start thicknessing then dock to size when finished, it's not a problem in my world but it obviously is for other people. If the cutterhead isn't "helical" in cutter positioning, what do we call it? Should it be called "segmented cutter positioning" or something like that?
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5th July 2017, 10:31 AM #45Deceased
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- May 2008
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- Australia
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- 2,357
#Just to get back to the item at the start of the thread and without diversions to snipe.
Excellent advise.
#How good is this thicknesser? Does it work as advertised?
I have not been disappointing by this new machines performance.
#How cheap or expensive are the replacement cutters and how long do they last when thicknessing Oz. Hardwood?
Replacement cutters are $55.00 for a pack of 6. Tungsten Carbide steel. Double sided cutting edge. Should suit Oz hardwoods.
#If the cutterhead isn't "helical" in cutter positioning, what do we call it?
Segmented cutter-head.
regards Stewie;
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