Thread: Sherwood ML-392 10" Combination

I can't answer your question but I'm also looking at the cost and space benefits of this or a similar one. I worry if 250mm thicknesser is enough for my needs.

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Originally Posted by DaveVman

I can't answer your question but I'm also looking at the cost and space benefits of this or a similar one. I worry if 250mm thicknesser is enough for my needs.

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That is one of my concerns as well.

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If you are in the practice of flattening panels that you have glued up with thicknessed boards, either a sander or a handplane, then a 10" wide machine will very likely be all that you will need. (Of course, if you insist on sending panels through a thicknesser, then you will need a 20" wide machine!)

Here is my Rule of Thumb:

The first machine used is a jointer to flatten a board before resawing it. Can your bandsaw resaw 10"? That is pretty wide and would be considered a challenge for most. I can do 11 1/2" on my Hammer, which is 4 hp, but this is serious resawing.

Your thicknesser is matched with the width of the boards you are working. If you cannot resaw wider than 10", then you will not joint more than 10", and you will not need to thickness more than 10".

For extra insurance, get a 12" machine, if you can afford one. Otherwise the 10" is likely to be fine.

Regards from Perth

Derek (with a 12" combo)

Originally Posted by derekcohen

If you are in the practice of flattening panels that you have glued up with thicknessed boards, either a sander or a handplane, then a 10" wide machine will very likely be all that you will need. (Of course, if you insist on sending panels through a thicknesser, then you will need a 20" wide machine!)

Here is my Rule of Thumb:

The first machine used is a jointer to flatten a board before resawing it. Can your bandsaw resaw 10"? That is pretty wide and would be considered a challenge for most. I can do 11 1/2" on my Hammer, which is 4 hp, but this is serious resawing.

Your thicknesser is matched with the width of the boards you are working. If you cannot resaw wider than 10", then you will not joint more than 10", and you will not need to thickness more than 10".

For extra insurance, get a 12" machine, if you can afford one. Otherwise the 10" is likely to be fine.

Regards from Perth

Derek (with a 12" combo)

A bandsaw is my next purchase.

It was my first priority until I spent a couple of afternoons with an electric hand planer and a #5 trying to tidy up the stack of old jarrah I have collected and not even making a dint.




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Another factor you may want to checkout is what sort of drive rollers are fitted. Ive had rubber on portable thicknesser and they don't cut the mustard when used heavily. Metal toothed are what you want especially with hard wood.

I had a look at the Oltre version today. It's a much better colour but much of the same.

Then I came across an old Robland X31 on my travels, but I don't think the Boss will let me bring that home.

Originally Posted by Jestar

..... but I don't think the Boss will let me bring that home.

Always remember "It is always easier to ask for forgiveness than permission".

I've had an ML392 10" sherwood combination machine since 2008.
I don't use it that often, but when I need it, it does the job.

Like most machine the 4" dust port is woefully inadequate.
Not just because of the fine dust issues but the fact that it did not clear chips from the roller so chips end up clogging the roller and being driven into the work .
I completely replaced the under/over dust chute and enlarged the 4" port to 6" so the chips and fine dust collection is improved.
The generic 2HP 10" planer/thicknesser dust control issues

I have also added a simple mod to the blade guard which I reckon works pretty well.
Jointer Use ... Do you STOP the machine between passes??

The original fence face had a slight vertical curve so I replaced it with this piece of 10 mm thick Al plate.
That piece of Al plate was not deliberately cut that way, it came like that and I just trimmed one end off.
Fence.jpg

Since I have had it the fence locking handle have come apart and I have had a replacement order in with Timbecon since mid 2016 and all they can tell me about when it will arrive is with their next order from china!
I would not like to have to replace a more complicated part.

My wife is still learning this word "forgiveness".

Bob my only concern with modifications to the DC is voiding any warranty. But if you're still waiting for a basic part since last year...
I was going to send you a PM if you don't mind with some queries about setting up DC in a temp/shared shed.

Originally Posted by Jestar

My wife is still learning this word "forgiveness".

Bob my only concern with modifications to the DC is voiding any warranty. But if you're still waiting for a basic part since last year...
I was going to send you a PM if you don't mind with some queries about setting up DC in a temp/shared shed.

Have you already bought the DC?
No worries about the PM
Cheers

Originally Posted by BobL

Have you already bought the DC?
No worries about the PM
Cheers

Not yet. I started reading up on DC and then come across Bill Pentz' site.



Regards

Dane

Originally Posted by BobL

I've had an ML392 10" sherwood combination machine since 2008.
I don't use it that often, ...

Why is that?



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Originally Posted by DaveVman

Why is that?
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To many interests, non-WW projects, family stuff, friends wanting to go for coffee, sorting out mens shed issues, banal distractions, helping various folks with dust extraction, and the dogs to blame but a few.

OK so basically as much use as I would get out of it in other words.

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