Thread: Struggling a bit with Jointer, Thicknesser or Combo

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

If you go down the "spiral" path, make sure you get a true helical head, not a plain spiral. A spiral head is just a straight knife chopped up, helical has the segments rotated as well so you get a shearing cut.

Spiral:


Helical:

I have tried Felder Silent power, SCM Xylent cutter block, Byrds, Helicals... each one of them has their distinctiveness, different stroke for different folks.

At the moment I am still attached to my Tersa cutter block on my Robland. The knife changing is the easiest knife changing ever and no setting required, this probably will change after I familiarise my self with my new Felder.

Thanks all and thanks for the NZ companies as well. I had a look at Chevpac NZ previously and having to rely on the online presence as haven't been into their shop they seem to be a reseller for machines made in China and advertised on Alibaba / Aliexpres - Jinteng. I did also see "Tanner" in the name and got excited as have heard excellent reviews of older Tanner machines but think they went the way of the dodo a few years back? I'm feeling good about the Felder and based on another woodworking stores +50% margin difference between OZ and NZ branches for similar products I actually thought it was not too bad in $NZ when comparing it to overseas. It appears tried, tested and well regarded. Appreciating it's a large investment but hopefully be using it in 15 years with the same level of passion and no doubt will have forgotten about the cost after the first few runs. Thanks again. Tablesaw is a Sawstop ( insistence from the Mrs) so stuck with Carbatec on that one. Dust extraction is next

You won't regret buying Felder. There is definitely a quality gradient from European to Tiawanese to Chinese.
That said, every machine requires setting up, my Felder had a tech. come and do the "hard " bits, and it has generally stayed in "spec".
I have Taiwanese and Chinese machines too, often "old" designs but Taiwanese casting /machining/dials generally better than Chinese. If you know what/how to "fettle" the machines they can be surprisingly good- in reality they all just apply horsepower to remove/cut wood with varying types of fences and dust extraction to aid usability. I have a Chinese mill- dials not as good, column tilts forward marginally and can only really be fixed (by me) by shimming. Taiwanese mill is much nicer to work with.
Don't forget dust extraction- my first old fashioned thicknesser scared the crap out of me, mainly as I had inadequate dust extraction and I never felt in control. I have dusty under the house and air is nor recirculated - much quieter too.
I have posted before about setting up tabletop adjustments- if the settings seem to "creep" back as adjustment bolts tightened, try using new washers- the old ones take a "set" and often pull top back into old position.
Finally if you get a Felder combo there is a great book 'Felder -The Unofficial Survival Guide' by David Best David P. Best Publications

Thanks heaps for that. Should be getting it end Sept. TS and dusty in next 10 days and sparky in next 5 days. Planning on putting about 4 x 20 AMPS and 4 x 15 AMPS outlets around the garage. Won't have more than one tool on at a time so likely can run that on a couple of circuits back to the box I already have ample 10 AMPS

I have 2 circuits. Hammer bandsaw and Felder 731 on one, only ever run one at a time. 20 amp plugs are expensive and may be cheaper to hard wire, if sparky is on hand.
Dusty on another. I ran 32 amp cable, to reduce voltage drop (small price compared with gear)
From memory the machine is either supplied with no plug, or has a plug not wired up- they wanted a sparky to attend on day of commissioning. I didn't get the moving cradle for the combi, but did for the bandsaw as it gets pushed away when not in use
You can get switching to come on with machine but pricey. I took switch off dusty and ran cable upstairs to switch mounted on wall then back to dusty Works ok
If you get thicknesser/planer the motor drive to raise/lower table is definitely worth it. Not needed as often on saw or moulder.
Remote start is probably a goer if you cut sheet goods as start button not great access and I have bad back- unfortunately I didn't get this
There is a Felder yahoo group I originally was in but I forgot my login details- there were descriptions on how to make your own remote button console with lists of suppliers, if you get the "manual", David may be able to guide you
There was a member (Brian) who was quite innovative, he was also selling large (450-600mm) triangular squares in aluminium.
I also got some air holddowns that can be operated semi remotely, great for repetitive work if you are working solo - MAC'S BLOG BOARD: Airtight Clamps Gallery There is also a 'big squeeze' variant, if you are good at manufacturing you can make you own, David has a link of the general layout of the hoses on his website
Starts to add up, but good fun
Good luck