Thread: Thicknesser Bearings Shot.

you need to heat the casting up to expand the metal releasing the pressure on the press fit.

the same thing happened to mine. I had to knock the bearing out with a pin punch from the inside, (no easy feat, let me tell you) and then do the same for the other end. The bearings aren't that tight in the housing or on the shaft so it's really only a matter of access to the things. I found that taking the cutters out of the head made it a lot easier. Be aware that the bearings are different sizes, the drive end is bigger than the other end. 16 odd dollars from the local auto store saw me good. In all it only took about 2 hours to fix. You will need to remove the motor head from the machine for better access. I didn't for the first one and that slowed me up. It also helps if you have a helper to hold the cutter head when you install the new bearings. I did this with the use of a socket that fitted the outside dia of the bearing, and a deep one for the driven end.

Hope this helps, if you need any more info pm me you phone and I can call you.\

Robert

Originally Posted by specialist

the same thing happened to mine. I had to knock the bearing out with a pin punch from the inside, (no easy feat, let me tell you) and then do the same for the other end. The bearings aren't that tight in the housing or on the shaft so it's really only a matter of access to the things. I found that taking the cutters out of the head made it a lot easier. Be aware that the bearings are different sizes, the drive end is bigger than the other end. 16 odd dollars from the local auto store saw me good. In all it only took about 2 hours to fix. You will need to remove the motor head from the machine for better access. I didn't for the first one and that slowed me up. It also helps if you have a helper to hold the cutter head when you install the new bearings. I did this with the use of a socket that fitted the outside dia of the bearing, and a deep one for the driven end.

Hope this helps, if you need any more info pm me you phone and I can call you.

Robert

Thank you both for your replies.

Rob, was you're thicknesser a T330 aswell? Seems they must use poor bearings, i guess you get what you pay for. Mine has been a bit noisy for a while now and it finally gave up the ghost. At first i thought the motor had gone until i removed the belt and the motor was free but the cutter head was jammed up.
I was hoping i wouldn't have to remove the motor to get the bearings out but i'll give it a go.
Looks like i'll have to grab a pin punch set aswell.

It will have to wait till the weekend though.

Thanks again for your help.

Steven.

No. Mine is the t12b, nolonger made, but the casting looks the same as yours. I puzzled over how the cutter head went in, but that was explained when the bearings came out. It needs to be bare to slip out through the two little recesses in the bottom of the casting. You won't need to remove it though, unless you dent the shaft like I did. This was only because I didn't remove the motor head from the machine and access was bad. Try to have a helper to remove the motor head from the machine, it can be done on your own, but will be much easier with four hands.

Good Luck

Robert

Thanks again Rob. Will give it a go this weekend and let you know how i get on.

Steven.

Hi Spokeshave,

You have access to the outside of the bearing. You need to remove the seal from between the inner and outer races so you can see the ball bearings. Then you need a bearing puller. You insert the teeth between the ball bearings and locate them on the inside of the outer race. You should then be able to pull the bearing out by screwing against the end of the shaft.

Clear as mud probably and a picture would be worth a thousand words etc but i'm at work at the moment. Local auto store should have an inexpensive puller if you can't borrow one. Should make the job very straightforward.

Cheer, moo & goodluck
Cow

Puller? I have seen all manner of bearing pullers, but have never seen one that would do what you describe, these bearing are only 38mm in diameter in a recessed cavity. I would really like to see a diagram or picture of what you describe.

Robert.

Hi Robert,

It probably doesn't look any different to the many you've seen. The trick is knowing to take the seal out so you can locate the puller inside the bearing. There are screw type and slide hammer types but 38mm should be no problem. If the photos don't come out than try these addresses. I just found these pics via google images but I can take a phot of mine if necessary.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1180773...09316594180338
https://picasaweb.google.com/1180773...09301674915170



Cheers
Cow

Thanks for that, I have never seen a puller like that. I would be surprised that you would be able to buy one off the shelf. I personally don't think that anyone in this town would even know what I was describing without a picture. This type of thing comes up more often than not so I will be actively looking for one now.

I am enlightened.

Robert

I got mine on the internet. It's a toledo one and cost me about $70 from memory. A set of seal picks comes in very handy as well without adding anything significant to the cost if you don't already have some.

Cheers
Cow

Originally Posted by cow

I got mine on the internet. It's a toledo one and cost me about $70 from memory. A set of seal picks comes in very handy as well without adding anything significant to the cost if you don't already have some.

Cheers
Cow

Could you please give us a Toledo part # for your puller as I can't find anything Toledo similar to the pictures you posted?

Hi MP,

Good news and bad news. I found my Toledo puller which i thought was the blind bearing puller but it wasn't. I can't find my blind puller and I'm gonna be cross if it's been 'borrowed'.

I did find this on the net
Multipull® Blind Housing Bearing Removers | Sykes-Pickavant

it's a sykes-pickavant puller. No prices but part numbers at least. 098000 I hope it doesn't turn out to be an expensive one.

Hope that's some help.
Cow

Thanks cow!

I'm thinking of buying a spiral head for my 20" thicknesser & would need this sort of tool for the removal of the old head..... maybe

I need to do a lot more research

Well, the jobs done!!! But it wasn't easy. A big thankyou to my brother-in-law for doing the job for me. He's a mechanic and used his tools and considerable experience to get it done. I was just a 2nd hand and grateful for his time.

Those bearings were well and truly fixed into thier housings. Even after 3 days of a good soaking of CRC they required some hitting out. I doubt the small bearing puller suggested earlier would have been effective in this situation (didnt have one anyway) so we used the long pin punch from the inside method.

First job was to remove the gear (as in 2nd pic) from one end of the shaft which was threaded on. This just made it shorter and easier to remove. Then the fun began, after many a frustrating hit from the inside with the pin punch resulted in nothing happening. But persistence payed off (and an even bigger hammer) and the thing started to move. When one bearing was out it was just a matter of hitting the same end of the shaft to pop the bearing out of the other end of the machine. Still firmly attatched to the opposite end of the shaft we could then use conventional outside bearing pullers to remove the 2nd bearing from the shaft. Once both bearings were off, we could then maneouvre the shaft from the machine and clean up the damaged threads (all the hitting of the shaft left the threads a bit worse for wear even with protection form a scrap of timber).

The shaft was then gently replaced into the machine and one new bearing tapped onto one end of the shaft. When it was roughly 2 thirds the way on it was tapped into it's housing. With enough of the shaft poking out the other end, the other new bearing was tapped into place.
Tapping one bearing home and refitting the circlip finished one side and gave support for the other bearing to be hit home. With out a circlip at one end, tapping the other end resulted in the shaft pushing the first bearing out of position, then the same happening when changing ends thus chasing your tail for ever. With both bearings and circlips in, we where ready to re-assemble the rest of the bits spread all over my bench.

Unfortunately i didnt have my camera handy to take photos of the process thus the lengthy explanation. Some pics would have been handy for future reference and a much clearer way to see what was being done.

Hopefully these new bearings last a while and i wont have to do this all over again. Or it may give me an excuse to get one of those heavy duty 15 inch thicknessers instead.

Steven.