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Thread: thicknesser for very thin planks
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5th June 2006, 05:52 PM #1Novice
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thicknesser for very thin planks
Just bought a GMC thicknesser, so rearing to go with preparing my 1/16 and 1/8 in planks. I put in an extra flat bed of laminated timber so I can plane down to less than 5 mm. However there is considerable snipe on the thinner bits and a couple of 1/16 planks were ripped apart. Has anyone got any tips on cutting thin planks or veneers? Or am I just pushing against the limitations of this machine? The thicknesser works well on the big stuff.
Estelle.
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5th June 2006, 06:32 PM #2
Hi Mini
I think you have reached the design parameters
sorry
dazzler
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5th June 2006, 06:37 PM #3Registered
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Maybe thin down with the machine as far as possible, then hand plane the rest.
Al
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5th June 2006, 06:47 PM #4
Even hand planing something 1/16" (< 1.6mm) thick would be pretty challenging unless the wood wasn't too brittle and didn't have much curly or direction-changing grain.
Perhaps some spray-on adhesive to hold the near-thickness board onto a flat surface, then hand sand or scrape with the grain. Light pressure, and "gently gently"
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5th June 2006, 07:09 PM #5Banned
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Originally Posted by minimania
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5th June 2006, 07:13 PM #6
Hi Estelle
What Doug said ... he pipped me at the post The drum sander is much kinder on thin timbers, so thickness down as far as you can then use the sander.
Cheers
Tikki
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5th June 2006, 08:13 PM #7
I think what's happening is the timber (being very small and lacking stiffness) is bouncing or vibrating into the blades and just distegrating.
I thickness 30mm wide (about 1.25") pieces of radiata to 1.2 mm thick in runs of a few thousand at a time without many rejects. I have thicknessed 30mm wide pieces down to .6mm successfully
The finish off my GMC is near enough to equal to the finish through a wide drum sander, and considerably faster.
I made some handsaw handles for fletty, a forum member. To make the handles I made some veneers about 2 or 3 " wide by exactly 1.01mm thick on the thicknesser, but with a lot of rejects. I put this different performance down to wider boards and different timber species. (curly grain cypress)
Provided you use timber without any defects and with straight grain,
and thickness only with the grain,
using razor sharp blades you should be able to thickness wider strips down to 1/16" thick.
But I doubt you can thickness strips 1/16" a 1/8".
However by cutting blanks say 30mm or so wide you can get blanks 1/16" thick. Using a steel straightedge and sharp trimming knife you should be able to cut them 1/8" wide. Maybe the veneer experts could advise a bit further as you are virtually making inlay strips.
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5th June 2006, 08:52 PM #8Banned
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Originally Posted by echnidna
however, with the more expensive timbers is it economical to turn so much of it into sawdust or would it be better to buy veneer :confused:
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5th June 2006, 08:57 PM #9
Custom making veneer lets you choose quatersawn or backsawn whereas most commercial stuff is just rotary sliced.
Also you can make veneers from timber thats just not commercially available as veneer.
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5th June 2006, 09:58 PM #10
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5th June 2006, 10:10 PM #11
I'm going to have a crack at making some Shaker boxes. I'm in the process of preparing some stock & have got it down to around 3mm via the bandsaw. Tried putting them thru the drum sander as is but they're too thin. Next step is to use a backing board with some of that non-slip rubber stuff glued on. Now, if only I can remember where I've put that rubber... Challenging exercise though
Keith
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5th June 2006, 11:00 PM #12
Bostik make a Pressure Sensitive Adhesive that you use to make your own sticky back sanding disks, disks can then be removed & replaced a number of times before the adhesive is RS.
You could try applying that to a sheet of melamine (flat & hard) and sticking your timber down before running through thicknesser.
The medium tackiness of the adhesive should enable the veneer to be removed cleanly.
You could also try the same using 3M repositionable spray contact adhesive, or another moderate tack type.
Cheers...................Sean, moderately tacky
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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5th June 2006, 11:27 PM #13
I cut Veneers down to 1/16" by resawing in a bandsaw. I use a very sharp 1/2 3tpi blade. As long as you test for any blade drift first and adjust your fence accordingly you should get great results.
I usually hand sand the veneers after glueing them to a melamine board or glass sheet using Bostick spray glue. This is the same glue I use for gluing sandpaper to glass for sharpening.Greg Lee
Old hackers never die, their TTL expires....
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5th June 2006, 11:36 PM #14.
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Originally Posted by echnidna
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6th June 2006, 03:25 PM #15Originally Posted by minimania
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/Inlaying2.html
Growing old is much better than the alternative!
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