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Thread: Wadkin 10ags blade adjustment
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26th September 2017, 10:21 PM #1Intermediate Member
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Wadkin 10ags blade adjustment
Hi all,
Just wondering if anyone out there has or knows how to adjust the arbour/shaft/pulley mechanism (might be using the wrong terminology) to align the blade to the machined mitre slot. At the moment over 120mm the blade is out by 0.25mm (pushing the dial indicator perpendicular to the blade)
Looking at under the table i see 2 square grub screws would that be it?
Thanks
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26th September 2017 10:21 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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26th September 2017, 11:55 PM #2
I have the same saw. You have four bolts holding the top to the body . These have to be loosened and the top adjusted to line the machined slot with the blade. This is a common way table saws do this I think . The AGS is a pain though because from memory all four bolts are up in the inside corners. They are hard to get to when your on your back looking up into that small body . You don't touch the bolts or screws holding the shaft housing in place. Play with those and you will be throwing other things out of whack.
When I did mine I loosened three bolts to the top and left one slightly just over finger tight , so the top could pivot on that one . I had a straight edge resting on the teeth of the raised blade and a vernier caliper measuring from the slot to the straight edge at the front and back ends of the table.
Rob
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27th September 2017, 07:41 AM #3Intermediate Member
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Terrific, thanks Rob ill give that a go this evening. Just another question, the riving knife or splitter do you have an aftermarket one or factory? I have one but the splitter is too thick 3.5mm wide and my blade kerf is 2.5mm and its bent giving me all sorts of grief.
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27th September 2017, 09:46 AM #4Woodworking mechanic
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Here's a link to the manual
http://www.wadkin.com/uploads/files/...rts%20List.pdf
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27th September 2017, 10:16 AM #5
I never got one with my saw and never got around to making one, which was my intention. Had I made one it was going to be a Riving knife and not the splitter with guard attached like they came with . My AGS has a 3 HP motor which I fitted up from the 2HP.
I grew up on saws without riving knifes and having survived all close calls in the early years , thanks to teachers that tought correct hand positions, I feel at ease without one and dont ever have trouble of the sort that's a worry.
I had 8 apprentices tought the same and they can still tell me where to go in sign language
Ive just upgraded to the Wadkin PK with 16" fitted. It takes up to an 18"blade. Its 4 HP and it has a knife fitted which I like a lot . A new saw and more power makes you very aware of the dangers while your getting used to it . It is a direct drive and not belt driven as well so the blade is going closer to the speed of light than the AGS.
Im wondering if I'm going to keep my AGS now.
Is that 2.5 mm on a ten inch blade ? Must be a nice easy push while ripping ?
Ive made knives before from old saw body material for another saw I used years back .
Ive seen Bursgreen gear for sale in UK Here
Wadkin 10 Inch AGS Sawbench Spare Parts
I had seen a splitter picture on there a few years back so maybe ask them .
Rob
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30th September 2017, 05:52 PM #6Intermediate Member
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So ive undone the 4 bolts thats holds the table to the body surprisingly not that tight. Clocked up the blade within 0.1mm over 200mm. Id be happy with that.
I bought the diablo 10" 40 tooth very impressed with how quiet it is.
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