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5th September 2017, 07:50 PM #16Senior Member
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Another possibility might be a horizontal slot mortising table if you have a planer/thicknesser capable of accepting one eg Hafco PT 300. Could be a relatively affordable alternative that doesn't eat up a lot of space.
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6th September 2017, 09:46 AM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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I have this mortiser attachment that came with my Robland NX410 combination machine. I used it once and put it away.
Why? The mortiser is in the way if you are in the planer/thicknesser mode. Unless you dont mind to reach over the mortiser everytime you do the jointing or walk around the mortiser while planing. this attachment also increased the operating width of the combination machine. if you are tight spaced like me and time is not important, then you should find this solution workable.
Just be mindful of the rotation of the jointer/thicknesser, there are two types of mortising chisel available from CMT for this application, clockwise and anti clockwise, needless to say, you wont be able to mortise if you use the wrong rotation chisel.
The pantrorouter is a workable solution if the setup time is not an issue, you dont mind to move it around and you have a lot of unused bench space. I cant see myself using this setup in my workshop at all. I am already limited with bench place(I dont even have a bench! I use my combination machine as my bench and do most of my work on the floor). if you dont have a lot of bench place. then its probably not for you.SCM L'Invincibile si X, SCM L'Invincibile S7, SCM TI 145EP, SCM Sandya Win 630, Masterwood OMB1V, Meber 600, Delta RJ42, Nederman S750, Chicago Pneumatics CPRS10500, Ceccato CDX12
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6th September 2017, 11:49 AM #18Senior Member
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6th September 2017, 11:52 AM #19
What I am not convinced about is the need for the tilting table on the newer model. It has pushed up the price significantly, and the non-tilt model is no longer available. I can't find a single video, and there are numerous on his Youtube channel, that shows the tilt in use.
Anyone got a clue when it might be useful? The best I can come up with is if you want to do some patterned carving on an angle....something I'll never be likely to do.
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6th September 2017, 11:55 AM #20
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6th September 2017, 12:01 PM #21Intermediate Member
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how about Festool Domino
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6th September 2017, 12:12 PM #22Senior Member
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Doh. I had another web page open of a Hafco M-25 morticer that sold on ebay about a week ago - same as the one Dom linked to. Located at Hornsby. That's the one I was referring to.
Sorry for the confusion.
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6th September 2017, 01:08 PM #23
Yes, I have a Domino DF500, and certainly they would be fine for smaller tables. I'm not convinced the tenons are big enough for full sized tables - maybe they are. The Larger Domino would be fine, but pretty exxy. The small ones (for DF500) penetrate maximum 25mm into each piece of timber, which just doesn't sound like enough, even if 2 or more were used on each joint.
Having said that, I have very limited experience at building tables, and nil with M&T, so maybe others could comment on the tenon lengths. I know 9-10 months ago Dom built his first table with a Dom, and it was pretty big and heavy. How's it holding up Dom?
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6th September 2017, 02:57 PM #24GOLD MEMBER
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Brett,
The XL domino DF700 cuts mortises from 8mm to 14mm which would be sufficient for tables I think. You can also get attachments to cut smaller mortises on the XL (4mm to 7mm bits) through Seneca woodworking.
So as an option and depending on how much you use your domino, you could sell your DF500 and buy the DF700. Not sure of the price difference but it's something to look at. I know the bigger domino is quite bulky compared to the DF500, so you need to consider that too.
Another option is making or buying a mortise jig and make your own floating tenons. There would be heaps of videos out there on how to do this.
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6th September 2017, 03:15 PM #25GOLD MEMBER
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- Melbourne, Vic, Australia
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The outdoor table I built used dominos only for the joints between the central boards and breadboard ends. I used large mortise and tenons for the aprons/legs and the outer and centre boards to breadboard joints. Apron haunched tenons were about 20mm x 75mm and drawbore pinned with 10mm rived dowels. I wanted a mortiser for this. Used a router to get first 30mm then forstner and mortise chisel for the rest.
20161228_134025.jpg
Holding together like a champ! No gaps etc.
20170820_140938.jpg
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15th November 2017, 08:03 AM #26GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Brett,
Did you end up buying a chisel mortiser?
Cheers, Dom
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15th November 2017, 08:31 AM #27
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15th November 2017, 05:07 PM #28
WE don't need one in OUR workshop Brett. WE might need a pantorouter though. We've found a unit in Katoomba. Moving second week in December.
Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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4th December 2017, 11:46 PM #29
I built hundreds of tables with the Hare and Forbes type , and I know two people with the larger of the cheaper type. I wouldn't go under the H& F type. The guys I know who have them both dislike them . I still use it sometimes and also have larger types of chisel and chain mortisers now. Second Hand H&F Type turn up on Ebay sometimes and go from $500 to $700 . I use a Domino as well sometimes but those mortisers do great work . You can do everything you want with just two chisels . a 3/8 and 1/2 inch . Larger mortises are just done by going around the outside and knocking out the center block . Ive done plenty of large mortised trestle tables that way and hardly ever put the larger 5/8 or 3/4 chisels in the machine. If you go for a second hand one there are a list of things to watch for I could tell you about . My one has copped an absolute hiding over the years and all that could go wrong has, and been repaired, and its still running . There is also a grinding technique for the chisels that makes them cut better which should be done when fitting a new one , slightly grinding the outside of chisel behind the leading cutting edge.
Rob
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5th December 2017, 04:53 PM #30
For what it's worth:
I have the small delta table top morticer. I use it a lot. In fact behind my table saw/router wing and incra I think it's probably the best wood machine I've bought. It chops large mortices in pine quickly and easily. I would think it is slower in hard wood but provided the chisel is sharp...it's quiet requires little setup no dust, just gets on and does the job.
Those pantorouters look like a remarkably complex and time consuming solution to a simple problem. Heath Robinson would be proud.
Two other solutions:
Cut your mortices with a router and pattern. Make loose tenons on your tablesaw and run the corners through a profile router to round them over to match.
I have not tried these but when they came out I thought they were a clever idea.
https://www.carbatec.com.au/joinery-...g-79-76-125-cm
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