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Thread: New Drill Press Options
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11th July 2006, 12:22 AM #1
New Drill Press Options
I know I should be able to answer this myself. However, I have finally decided that I need a new drill press. So suggestions would be greatfully accepted concerning the following.
- Best brand and Model?
- Pedestal vs Bench?
- How many HP do you really need?
- What do you use your drill press for as well as drilling?
Anyway all suggestions would be greatfully accepted, reviewed, considered and ignored if stupid.Greg Lee
Old hackers never die, their TTL expires....
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11th July 2006 12:22 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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11th July 2006, 01:08 AM #2
A floor stander will take up no more room than a bench model with a mobile base.
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11th July 2006, 03:52 AM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Greg
Like all machines it depends on what you plan to use it for. You can use a drill press for drilling ( ) , drum sanding, planer, morticing, rosettes, belt sanding, tapping and I have probably missed some there.
Some of the uses I have listed are compromises for better purpose made machines but they still do the job if you have the right accessory.
Primarily a drill press is for precision and usually cheaper units do not deliver so stay away from the under $200 range.
Because of badge engineering brand names are not as important as the construction of drill press itself. Floor or bench is a personal preference but it is rare to need the drilling capacity of a floor model.
Features to look for are 2 morse taper spindle and 3MT on the larger units, drill capacity, depth of drilling, diameter of column and quill, rack and pinion table adjustment, table dimension and square is better than round for woodworking as there is more support, depth of throat (centre of drill chuck to column), 3/4 hp or larger motor (this can be misleading though) and a good range of speeds. Weight of the drill press is also a indication of the quality of the machine. In all cases above bigger is better.
Do a matrix of the specifications and price on the various models and it should be clearer what you are after.Cheers,
Rod
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11th July 2006, 09:33 AM #4GOLD MEMBER
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Have found the 1/3hp GMC underpowered for normal woodwork use- bits get stuck in radiata pine. Don't go there.
Carry Pine
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11th July 2006, 03:11 PM #5.
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Originally Posted by Carry Pine
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11th July 2006, 04:40 PM #6
I have a bench model and now wish I had of chosen the floor model (SB20 1HP H&F).
As a result of this I have now purchased a small steel cupboard from H&F to mount the drill on top of. When mounted on my work bench it was:
1. Always in the road for long pieces of timber being worked on.
2. Took up too much room on the bench.
3. Was at the wrong height for working with. Chuck at rest at eye level (too high). Could of cut the main post but this would have reduced tha already minimal travel of the table.
4. Threw shavings or swarf all over the bench - PITA
Despite what has been recently written in this forum regarding the use of moveable bases, a drill press is severely top heavy, especially a floor type and personally I wouldn't recommend this modification to anybody. They are designed to be bolted down and thats that.
In looking for drill press, I recommend 1HP at the least especially if you intend to use any of accessories previously mentioned. Don't worry about the number of speeds it has. If it is used for wood you can get away with relatively few speeds (about 10) as most people can't be bothered changing speeds every time they change drill size. Conversely if it's metal you need to drill, the more speeds the better as that will give the drill a longer cutting life. A large chuck (about 16mm) is good as morse taper drills can get expensive (most people don't use them anyway). Bigger than 13mm usually done with a speed bore or a hole saw when it gets really big.
Mount it where you can position a portaflood lamp or other task lighting - makes it easier to line up the centre punch mark.
Anyway that my 2c______________
Mark
They only call it a rort if they're not in on it
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11th July 2006, 07:59 PM #7Senior Member
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I recently bought the Carbatec 16 speed bench top model. I am very happy with it. It is very smooth, quiet and plenty of speeds!
I compared them all at the WWW Show, except for the Hafco one, and the Cabatec was my prefered one.
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11th July 2006, 11:34 PM #8
Thanks everyone for the input.
I'm still not sure whether Bench or pedestal is the way to go. However, I think I'll take a visit to Carbatec and Hare & Forbes in the next few days and have a look and try out a few. I'm still leaning towards the Carbatec Bench model though.
Anyway I let you know when I decide and pick one up.Greg Lee
Old hackers never die, their TTL expires....
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12th July 2006, 12:26 AM #9
Hi Greg,
Check out the Total Tools Industrial (TTI) one as well. I've got the DP12000 which is a 12-speed 3/4hp bench drill. I've had mine for a couple of years now and its been fine.
When I bought mine I compared Carba-Tec, Hare & Forbes and TTI. They were all fairly similar but I decided on the TTI because I liked the finish of it better. For example, either the Carba-Tec or the Hare & Forbes (or maybe both) had a plastic handle to operate the rack and pinion which raises and lowers the table. It looked pretty flimsy to me. The same handle on the TTI one is cast iron. Some of the little scales on the drill presses, such as those indicating table tilt angle and quill travel, were just stickers on the Hare & Forbes (and I can't remember if the Carba-Tec one was the same) whereas on the TTI one they are little metal scales which are riveted on. Stickers such as these peeling off after a while would annoy the hell out of me.
A trade off with the TTI one was that the Carba-Tec and Hare & Forbes ones both had 16-speeds while the TTI one only has 12. I didn't reckon I'd need 16 as I'm really only using it to drill wood. As its turned out, I haven't even used the 12 speeds yet, so 16 would have been overkill.
I can't remember what the price comparisons were but they were all fairly similar.Regards,
Ian.
A larger version of my avatar picture can be found here. It is a scan of the front cover of the May 1960 issue of Woodworker magazine.
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12th July 2006, 12:29 AM #10
Greg,
I just noticed that you're from North Manly. I bought my drill press at TTI in Brookvale. They're only a short trip up the road for you.Regards,
Ian.
A larger version of my avatar picture can be found here. It is a scan of the front cover of the May 1960 issue of Woodworker magazine.
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12th July 2006, 07:01 AM #11Senior Member
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Greg, I have a bench mounted one and I agree it gets in the way alot and makes a mess but I'm building a strong cabinet to support it and that way will have the extra space for tools, bits etc.
I will get a floor unit one day for end drilling long pieces.
Cheers Arch.
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12th July 2006, 09:53 PM #12
Mirboo,
Thanks for the idea. I didn't think of Total Tools at Brookie. Come to think of it I think Sydney Tools at Brookie also sells Carbatec and some red painted gear as an agent. I have a look at them both.Greg Lee
Old hackers never die, their TTL expires....
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12th July 2006, 10:08 PM #13
Greg,
I agree, Sydney Tools at Brookvale would be worth a look. I didn't think of them before. I have seen some Carba-Tec stuff there before.Regards,
Ian.
A larger version of my avatar picture can be found here. It is a scan of the front cover of the May 1960 issue of Woodworker magazine.
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12th July 2006, 10:25 PM #14
I baught a bench mount & have it on a box type cabinet on a mobile base.
sometimes I rergret not getting a floor mount unit.
If you want to wheel it round i recon a bench mount is the only option, one of the tall boys realy needs bolting down.
my unit is 3/4 hp & i would realy prefer at least 1hp.
mine has a light in the drill head inbetween the chuck & the post & i have to say that is realy good. it puts the light exactly where its needed and is never in the way.
the metal working suppliers (in my opinion) have the inside running on drill presses. for example hare & forbes have better range and features than carbatec.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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