Thread: Drill press switch

Sounds like the electromagnetic coil in the (No Volt [NV] Switch) switch is fried OR maybe just disconnected.

A new switches on ebay are between $10 and $20
eg
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-Type-...RmjwTMmPDCSNpA

You should ar least match the number of pins/voltage and current.

Thanks Bob, is there a multimeter test that can confirm that it's the coil or are there any other tell-tale signs?

Originally Posted by Tiger

Thanks Bob, is there a multimeter test that can confirm that it's the coil or are there any other tell-tale signs?

NV switches come on 4 or 5 pin.
In the case of the 4 pin it's L and N in, and L and N out
As far as I know there's no test - it works or it doesn't.

5 pins have 4 pin the same as the 4 pin (L and N in, and L and N out) PLUS a 5th pin which goes to the coil and is connected to L out (the other end of the coil is connected to N, If you test across teh 5th pin and N out you should get a clear "Ohmage" af about 5kΩ if you get a lot more than this the coils is cooked and its buy a new one.

Clear as mud?

I had the same issue on my grinder. I pulled the switch out, took it apart and put a bit of a kink on the two connectors on the coil so that when it was pushed back into place, they made better contact.

I know - I didn’t explain that very clearly, but without some pictures I don’t think I can do any better and I really don’t feel like doing it again while it’s still working.

I actually opened the switch up to see if something was loose. What I found was that the green On button pushes 2 springs down onto some contacts and that’s what turns the drill press on. The green button doesn’t seem to have the strength to hold the contacts together, that is why if you keep holding the button down with a little bit of pressure it keeps working. Relax slightly and it stops working. Starting to think it might just be the cover plate of the switch that is the problem, it’s a ZJ 4 switch.