Thread: electric wood planes

Do you keep a bit of downward pressure on the back end of the planer? You have to register off the wood that has been planed.
Just my thoughts,
Ross

It's probably a matter of working on your technique, keeping enough downward pressure on the back of the planer and supporting the weight at the front. Don't overreach, it's harder to control the more you extend.

As the others have sad ''technique''. Use it just like a handplane. At the start of the stroke place the front end (part before the blades) flat on the wood using downwards pressure on the front of the plane then a steady stroke along the wood. Ease off the front pressure and maintain the back pressure before you reach the end of the stroke. Those planes can take quite a deep cut and that is fine if you have a lot of wood to take off but set it for a shallow cut for the last few strokes if you are looking for a nice flat surface. At it's worst set shallow the snipe (bight at the end) will be a lot less also. Its like most woodworking things and will improve with practice.
Regards
John

Is the height & alignment true & parallel to the rear platen (soleplate) of the tool? If not adjust to suit; to do so, use a small, short, lightweight (say 150mm+/-) offcut & turn the cutterblock a few degrees to shift the offcut along about 10-12mm or so only at each end of the blade/s when inverted. Less offset then increase the blade depth; more then lessen the blades' protrusion. Ensure BOTH blades are concentric to each other & the rear platen.

Once properly adjusted, further adjustment will be unnecessary as the disposable blade/s will be of uniform dimensions & keyed to their holders' alignment. The rear platen is your reference against which the (adjusted) depth, truth & try of the cut is gauged.

I have the same problem. I just cut the stock a little longer than needed and cut to size after planning. Works for me. Good luck.