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  1. #16
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    to my eye that's not acceptable and will never give good result. I hope hafco aren't too far from you because I'd be taking that back.
    Some people are like slinkies - not really good for anything, but they
    bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs .

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by fubar View Post
    to my eye that's not acceptable and will never give good result. I hope hafco aren't too far from you because I'd be taking that back.
    Thanks, those were exactly my thoughts. I can't see how you can ever adjust the error out of that and if you did it would be a fluke!

  4. #18
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    Yep, reckon that's bollocks. Not fit for purpose, and as such should be returned.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  5. #19
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    Yep, only good for making see-saw's.

  6. #20
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    I was going to tell you about adjusting the pressure on the infeed and outfeed tables but when you posted the photos I can see that this would be of no practical use. If you were having that problem and the bed was flat it may have solved the problem. I am with those who are saying take it back.

    Someone mentioned that model not being a proper helical head. That is a problem on the carbatec ones as well. they are nowhere near as good as a proper helical head.

    Cheers


    Doug
    I got sick of sitting around doing nothing - so I took up meditation.

  7. #21
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    as an aside my local mens shed just replaced the carbi 15" helical (aftermarket fitted) with the Powermatic 15" helical

    I'm in Love. The Powermatic is so much quieter and the spiral on the helical is a lot more pronounced.
    the finish is superb seems to be better than what we achieved with the carbie even with a new set of cutters
    to be fair the carbie is old but...
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  8. #22
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    What brand of aftermarket head was fitted Sawdust Maker?

  9. #23
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    Ive seen articles where people have added an "auxiliary bed" to the thicky - you will lose some capacity, but get a level bed from infeed to outfeed. A length of melamine would do the trick. By all accounts it is a cheap way to improve a low end thicknesser. I have not tried this myself, but might give it a go.

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by RossM View Post
    Ive seen articles where people have added an "auxiliary bed" to the thicky - you will lose some capacity, but get a level bed from infeed to outfeed. A length of melamine would do the trick. By all accounts it is a cheap way to improve a low end thicknesser. I have not tried this myself, but might give it a go.
    Makes sense to me and it's something to keep in mind if I don't have any joy with H&F. But given that it's still under warranty (and virtually brand new) I'll pursue that avenue first...

    Cheers

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by safari View Post
    What brand of aftermarket head was fitted Sawdust Maker?
    I'll find out for you - It happened before my time
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  12. #26
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    I wonder, I sold a Powermatic to someone up North of the harbour and it had a genuine Byrd helical head still in the box that hadn't been fitted go with it. I imported the head from the US when the dollar was a lot better than it is now. Has this machine got a DRO on it Nick?
    CHRIS

  13. #27
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    Thanks for going to the trouble Sawdust Maker

  14. #28
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    Good news. I just picked up the thicknesser from Hare & Forbes after they'd had it for two days. They've managed to get it to perform almost perfectly by manipulating the infeed and outfeed tables (just like Woodpixel said). I've fed a number of pieces of timber through it with very little sign of snipe, no slippage and no skewing. The last test was a piece of old hardwood 60 x 80 and approximately a metre long. I'd previously straitened one side on the jointer so I ran the other side through a number of times then flipped it over and sent the jointed side through a number of times then I measured the thickness at both ends within a couple of mm of the ends of the board. 56.58mm vs. 56.73mm That's close enough for me.

    So how did they do it when I wasn't able to? Well there are some additional screws securing the infeed and outfeed tables (highlighted in red in attached photo) that apparently allow you some 'wriggle room' to get that extra fine adjustment.

    table.JPG

    I had assumed that the only adjustment could be done through the bolt highlighted in blue. Whatever they did it seems to have done the trick.

    When I asked about the bump in the middle of the bed there was no rational explanation just a vague reference to it being only a stainless steel sheet. Then a straight edge was produced and sure enough no bump. So I think that one might have to remain another one of life's little mysteries.

    Anyway a pat on the back to Hare and Forbes for addressing my problem quickly and coming to a satisfactory resolution. As an adjunct I've ordered some Silbergleist and will go ahead and get some carbide cutters from Steve Evans (given that in Woodpixel's words they are "a million times better") .

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    I wonder, I sold a Powermatic to someone up North of the harbour and it had a genuine Byrd helical head still in the box that hadn't been fitted go with it. I imported the head from the US when the dollar was a lot better than it is now. Has this machine got a DRO on it Nick?
    Chris
    No DRO, the men's shed Powermatic is a brand new machine with the head already fitted
    (We managed to get a grant to cover the cost)
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  16. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tccp123 View Post
    ... get some carbide cutters from Steve Evans (given that in Woodpixel's words they are "a million times better") .
    One. Million.

    Easily!

    Make sure you take the time to put them in nice and flush, otherwise you get the "little lines".

    I think ElanJacobs said that this is the realms of a thickness sander.... its nothing more than a quick blat with 120grit on the ROS to eliminate them, but a bit of time getting it right leads to a nice finish

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